Anybody sound proof around steering shaft?
#1
Anybody sound proof around steering shaft?
Like the title says anybody done this as it goes through the firewall? I saw on another forum someone did a coozie mod around it but can't see this as a viable solution. I put a clothe around it at idle and getting a lot less engine noise . I tried using some foam strips but just fell out. Maybe just replace the seal?
#5
#6
I did my Van with 3 layers of Dyanamat on the entire interior, and I did the floor and the Firewall with the Dynamat extreme first, then the DynaLiner 1/2" Foam Black Sheets on the Firewall and DynaPad on the floor.
The Dynaliner also comes in 1/4" thickness.
When I did the doors I did the outside door skin with the Extreme x2, then the Inside door skin with another Silver Foil Extreme, then a 1/2" DynaLiner. When I removed the door panels we stick the Dynaliner to the panels we removed. Then when we screw them back on the rig they have a black edge exposed. It's 1/2" thick and makes the door panels stick out a full 1/2", but you don't even notice it. That stuff really soundproofed the Doors 10 times better than the thin Foil Faced Extreme.
So what I recommend is to use the Foil Extreme on any bare sheet metal, then the DynaLiner 1/2" Black Foam Sheets. One Roll does the 2 Doors and enough left over for the firewall. When we did the firewall we noticed there was a couple rubber grommets that let air in the cab, they needed to be sealed. We put strong lights under the hood at night while looking under the dash to find them all.
Trace the removed door panels with the Backside (white plastic non-stick) with a Sharpie, cut with scissors and stick it right to the Masonite door backing (Or whatever it is). Then install the door panel with the foam already on it.
And for the areas we could not reach or crevices I used the 3M Rubberized UnderCoating.
Do not use any other Brand as it will make a mess. The 3M Dries to a great finish that will not break-down with gas, oil, etc. It is the best. It really helps the soundproof.
I also used Evercoat Q-Pads on the Inside doors (I forgot) and the Firewall before the DynaLiner. The Q-Pads are about 3/16" thick heavy self-stick 12" x 12" squares that work great. There is about 200 Lbs. of soundproofing in my van but I think it's worth it.
I saved 100 Lbs. when I got rid of the Stock Steel rims and installed the Alcoa Classics, 19.4 Lbs. savings on each rim x 5 (the spare too).
Anyway, I will recommend any soundproofing.
The Explorer Conversion Van Company installed the Dynamat for me when I drop-shipped it to them before they did my interior. It came out great. They also installed the Owens Corning Pink Glass in the walls. It really helps in the Florida heat, the A/C front and rear systems are ice cold, people have to ask me to turn it down as they shivver.
All the best,
Russ
The Dynaliner also comes in 1/4" thickness.
When I did the doors I did the outside door skin with the Extreme x2, then the Inside door skin with another Silver Foil Extreme, then a 1/2" DynaLiner. When I removed the door panels we stick the Dynaliner to the panels we removed. Then when we screw them back on the rig they have a black edge exposed. It's 1/2" thick and makes the door panels stick out a full 1/2", but you don't even notice it. That stuff really soundproofed the Doors 10 times better than the thin Foil Faced Extreme.
So what I recommend is to use the Foil Extreme on any bare sheet metal, then the DynaLiner 1/2" Black Foam Sheets. One Roll does the 2 Doors and enough left over for the firewall. When we did the firewall we noticed there was a couple rubber grommets that let air in the cab, they needed to be sealed. We put strong lights under the hood at night while looking under the dash to find them all.
Trace the removed door panels with the Backside (white plastic non-stick) with a Sharpie, cut with scissors and stick it right to the Masonite door backing (Or whatever it is). Then install the door panel with the foam already on it.
And for the areas we could not reach or crevices I used the 3M Rubberized UnderCoating.
Do not use any other Brand as it will make a mess. The 3M Dries to a great finish that will not break-down with gas, oil, etc. It is the best. It really helps the soundproof.
I also used Evercoat Q-Pads on the Inside doors (I forgot) and the Firewall before the DynaLiner. The Q-Pads are about 3/16" thick heavy self-stick 12" x 12" squares that work great. There is about 200 Lbs. of soundproofing in my van but I think it's worth it.
I saved 100 Lbs. when I got rid of the Stock Steel rims and installed the Alcoa Classics, 19.4 Lbs. savings on each rim x 5 (the spare too).
Anyway, I will recommend any soundproofing.
The Explorer Conversion Van Company installed the Dynamat for me when I drop-shipped it to them before they did my interior. It came out great. They also installed the Owens Corning Pink Glass in the walls. It really helps in the Florida heat, the A/C front and rear systems are ice cold, people have to ask me to turn it down as they shivver.
All the best,
Russ
#7
I did my Van with 3 layers of Dyanamat on the entire interior, and I did the floor and the Firewall with the Dynamat extreme first, then the DynaLiner 1/2" Foam Black Sheets on the Firewall and DynaPad on the floor.
The Dynaliner also comes in 1/4" thickness.
When I did the doors I did the outside door skin with the Extreme x2, then the Inside door skin with another Silver Foil Extreme, then a 1/2" DynaLiner. When I removed the door panels we stick the Dynaliner to the panels we removed. Then when we screw them back on the rig they have a black edge exposed. It's 1/2" thick and makes the door panels stick out a full 1/2", but you don't even notice it. That stuff really soundproofed the Doors 10 times better than the thin Foil Faced Extreme.
So what I recommend is to use the Foil Extreme on any bare sheet metal, then the DynaLiner 1/2" Black Foam Sheets. One Roll does the 2 Doors and enough left over for the firewall. When we did the firewall we noticed there was a couple rubber grommets that let air in the cab, they needed to be sealed. We put strong lights under the hood at night while looking under the dash to find them all.
Trace the removed door panels with the Backside (white plastic non-stick) with a Sharpie, cut with scissors and stick it right to the Masonite door backing (Or whatever it is). Then install the door panel with the foam already on it.
And for the areas we could not reach or crevices I used the 3M Rubberized UnderCoating.
Do not use any other Brand as it will make a mess. The 3M Dries to a great finish that will not break-down with gas, oil, etc. It is the best. It really helps the soundproof.
I also used Evercoat Q-Pads on the Inside doors (I forgot) and the Firewall before the DynaLiner. The Q-Pads are about 3/16" thick heavy self-stick 12" x 12" squares that work great. There is about 200 Lbs. of soundproofing in my van but I think it's worth it.
I saved 100 Lbs. when I got rid of the Stock Steel rims and installed the Alcoa Classics, 19.4 Lbs. savings on each rim x 5 (the spare too).
Anyway, I will recommend any soundproofing.
The Explorer Conversion Van Company installed the Dynamat for me when I drop-shipped it to them before they did my interior. It came out great. They also installed the Owens Corning Pink Glass in the walls. It really helps in the Florida heat, the A/C front and rear systems are ice cold, people have to ask me to turn it down as they shivver.
All the best,
Russ
The Dynaliner also comes in 1/4" thickness.
When I did the doors I did the outside door skin with the Extreme x2, then the Inside door skin with another Silver Foil Extreme, then a 1/2" DynaLiner. When I removed the door panels we stick the Dynaliner to the panels we removed. Then when we screw them back on the rig they have a black edge exposed. It's 1/2" thick and makes the door panels stick out a full 1/2", but you don't even notice it. That stuff really soundproofed the Doors 10 times better than the thin Foil Faced Extreme.
So what I recommend is to use the Foil Extreme on any bare sheet metal, then the DynaLiner 1/2" Black Foam Sheets. One Roll does the 2 Doors and enough left over for the firewall. When we did the firewall we noticed there was a couple rubber grommets that let air in the cab, they needed to be sealed. We put strong lights under the hood at night while looking under the dash to find them all.
Trace the removed door panels with the Backside (white plastic non-stick) with a Sharpie, cut with scissors and stick it right to the Masonite door backing (Or whatever it is). Then install the door panel with the foam already on it.
And for the areas we could not reach or crevices I used the 3M Rubberized UnderCoating.
Do not use any other Brand as it will make a mess. The 3M Dries to a great finish that will not break-down with gas, oil, etc. It is the best. It really helps the soundproof.
I also used Evercoat Q-Pads on the Inside doors (I forgot) and the Firewall before the DynaLiner. The Q-Pads are about 3/16" thick heavy self-stick 12" x 12" squares that work great. There is about 200 Lbs. of soundproofing in my van but I think it's worth it.
I saved 100 Lbs. when I got rid of the Stock Steel rims and installed the Alcoa Classics, 19.4 Lbs. savings on each rim x 5 (the spare too).
Anyway, I will recommend any soundproofing.
The Explorer Conversion Van Company installed the Dynamat for me when I drop-shipped it to them before they did my interior. It came out great. They also installed the Owens Corning Pink Glass in the walls. It really helps in the Florida heat, the A/C front and rear systems are ice cold, people have to ask me to turn it down as they shivver.
All the best,
Russ
Hey Russ,
Thanks for the info. I probably will not go as far as you did but good info for others! Thanks and reps to you!
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