f350 front end wobble
#16
#17
66ca, just to clarify this; is your truck 2WD? I'm not real familiar with late 90's Fords (still learning myself) but you might have a Twin I-Beam or a solid axle. Any information you can add would help us out.
Ray
Ray
Last edited by raystankewitz; 06-27-2010 at 10:39 PM. Reason: clarification
#18
#19
#22
Yea change the ball joints, you'd need upper and lower for each side even is one is still "good".
What we're trying to find out is what front axle set up you have, I would think the f-350 two wheel drive would still use a solid front axle. No one else that has one and know for sure has stopped in to say one way or the other yet.
Is it one solid axle housing from one tire to the other? or does it have the individual swing arms, one for each front wheel for independent suspension?
Use the picture I posted in #14,
look at the axle housing itself, see how its solid from wheel to wheel, is yours setup like that? (minus the driven part of course)
Or is it set up like this,
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/5.../stock-ttb.jpg
Is it leaf spring or coil?
#24
Ok it does not have a track bar, doesn't need one.
Where the I beam pivot bushings checked?
Yes ball joints are a press fit, and yes you can rent the tool needed, that is if you where asking, looking for verification?
#26
ok....just got back from the other alignment shop and they said the ball joints need to be replaced. This guy said they werent real bad, but loose enough to replace. One mechanic drove and it and got it to wobble so he could see what i was talking about. Other then rotating the tires on the drivers side, he tightnend up a bracket on the I beam that goes to the drivers side. Not for sure what this bracket does, but it has 2 bolts and one was really loose. After he tightened that up he drove it around and couldnt get it to wobble. But then i took him and it wobbled....not as bad, and i didnt have to completely stop to get it to quit. And i drove all the way home( about 8 miles) and it didnt do it at all...and it wobbled a number of times on the way to the shop.
So what does this tell me? I know i am going to replace the ball joints....but do i need to do the I beam bushings at the same time, or what? Also, are those bushings hard to change?
So what does this tell me? I know i am going to replace the ball joints....but do i need to do the I beam bushings at the same time, or what? Also, are those bushings hard to change?
#27
ok....just got back from the other alignment shop and they said the ball joints need to be replaced. This guy said they werent real bad, but loose enough to replace. One mechanic drove and it and got it to wobble so he could see what i was talking about. Other then rotating the tires on the drivers side, he tightnend up a bracket on the I beam that goes to the drivers side. Not for sure what this bracket does, but it has 2 bolts and one was really loose. After he tightened that up he drove it around and couldnt get it to wobble. But then i took him and it wobbled....not as bad, and i didnt have to completely stop to get it to quit. And i drove all the way home( about 8 miles) and it didnt do it at all...and it wobbled a number of times on the way to the shop.
So what does this tell me? I know i am going to replace the ball joints....but do i need to do the I beam bushings at the same time, or what? Also, are those bushings hard to change?
So what does this tell me? I know i am going to replace the ball joints....but do i need to do the I beam bushings at the same time, or what? Also, are those bushings hard to change?
#28
#30
1997 f350 4x4 crew cab long bed x2 and same problems.
First things first. I have 2 of these trucks. One lifted, one stock. The lifted is gas, the other one id diesel. They both are solid axles. Yours if its really a F350 should be solid. I have friends with 2wd and theirs were solid while other F250's had that other setup. same set up as the broncos that year. That bracket that was loose most likely have caused premature wear/tare on your ball joints which could cause other things to wear out. Are your truck tires still in good shape? Even wear on the tires all around?
I have replaced the ball joints ($40 for 1 top and 1 bottom) on my truck because I noticed bad wear on my tires, like toe out. I fixed that and then replaced the leaf spring bushings ($100 for the front axle). Then the tranny went, but that job is for another thread. I was hit at a red-light and now that truck i spent months to fix is totaled.Before the crash, everything was perfect, no problems. As I drove away from being hit, that truck had a death wobble from 35mph-40mph then the trans and engine shakes bad higher then that even with a track bar with oem bushings was on it. It also can be caused by bad springs and you might need a steering stabilizer. That helps a lot. A lot of the coil over jeeps have that problem to and thats basically how they fix those. Also go from the cheapest fix to the more expensive one.
When replacing ball joints, do not heat up the cast iron with a blowtorch, they will get micro cracks and then fall apart. That happened to many people I know, and they work at an automotive shop.... Go invest in about 4 cans of PB if it were completely rusted like mine were. Spray the ball joints once an hour and then try using the press. And I had to buy a 20ton press from Harbor Freight to push the ball joints out.
Price list
Ball joints = $40 a set and need 2 = $80
Leaf Spring bushings = $120
track bar bushing = $20
Steering for front end = ~$150
Goodluck.
I have replaced the ball joints ($40 for 1 top and 1 bottom) on my truck because I noticed bad wear on my tires, like toe out. I fixed that and then replaced the leaf spring bushings ($100 for the front axle). Then the tranny went, but that job is for another thread. I was hit at a red-light and now that truck i spent months to fix is totaled.Before the crash, everything was perfect, no problems. As I drove away from being hit, that truck had a death wobble from 35mph-40mph then the trans and engine shakes bad higher then that even with a track bar with oem bushings was on it. It also can be caused by bad springs and you might need a steering stabilizer. That helps a lot. A lot of the coil over jeeps have that problem to and thats basically how they fix those. Also go from the cheapest fix to the more expensive one.
When replacing ball joints, do not heat up the cast iron with a blowtorch, they will get micro cracks and then fall apart. That happened to many people I know, and they work at an automotive shop.... Go invest in about 4 cans of PB if it were completely rusted like mine were. Spray the ball joints once an hour and then try using the press. And I had to buy a 20ton press from Harbor Freight to push the ball joints out.
Price list
Ball joints = $40 a set and need 2 = $80
Leaf Spring bushings = $120
track bar bushing = $20
Steering for front end = ~$150
Goodluck.