I am considering replacing my factory waste gate controller with the adjustable Diesel Site Turbo Master unit. The spring in my factory unit is either broke or extremely weak. Looking for feedback and experiences running the Turbo Master.

 

I ran one for awhile on my stock turbo, stock w/ 1.0 turbine housing, and 38r w/1.0 wastegated , until I went to the 1.15 non wastegated housing on my 38r. I really liked it. Easy to adjust and does what it is said to do. Felt a bit stronger in the bottom and mid range power.

 

Roland -

At this point I can buy a replacement OEM waste gate controller or get an aftermarket like the Turbo Master. A few older threads I saw discussing the Turbo Master were mostly very positive. At this point I need to replace the original one in my truck. My main concern is am I giving up anything positive by getting away from the OEM pressure actuated stock selenoid design. Since the Turbo Master is purely manual and mechanical I would think there might be some downside...reduced fuel economy maybe??

 

I ran the TM for a couple of years and saw no loss of mpgs. I asked Bob about that before I bought it, too.
EDIT: I still have one laying around. Another member asked me about it before, but never followed through on it.

 

How did the install of your TM go in the tight quarters in that area?...or did you have your turbo off when installing the TM?

 

It's not any worse than installing the OEM one. The 'dreaded E-clip' on the wastegate arm is the worst part of the installation. I did lose one in the process. LOL

 

Ok. The Dieselsite online directions seem straight forward when installing with the turbo on the truck. I just don't want to get one only to find out you really need to R&R the turbo unless you have double jointed magic fingers

 

Believe me, there is nothing magical about my fingers and I did just fine with the turbo on the truck.

 

I've got one on mine too and it's everything Roland said. I don't think I'd buy it again though. While it's easy to adjust and all, how often to you need to adjust it? For me, never again after it's installed. So what I'm saying is that there isn't a performance gain (or at least very little if any) over removing the red line from the factory actuator and tightening the rod until you get it where you want it. Only benefit I see personally is that it will take a few times to get it set to where you want it and it's easy to just turn the nut on the Turbomaster, where it's a little more difficult to shorten/lengthen the OE actuator to set it.
If you don't have access to an OE actuator free or cheap, then sure buy the Turbomaster. I had a new one that Roland gave me on the cheap, but I still eventually went to the TM anyway, should have saved my money.

 

Keith, did you have any trouble with the TM and the ATS housing? I have heard there can be clearance issues with the WG rod and the mounting tabs on the ATS.

 

Ok, good to know. I think reported differences regarding performance gains with the TM over those that simply remove their red hose are due to how out of adjustment their stock OEM canister spring is or differences in spring strength. Especially after around 10 years so. I was thinking about saving the cash and just adjusting the rod length on the stock unit. However, my stock canister spring is broke or extremely weak as I can fully open and close the valve with one hand while on the truck
So, I feel better about just replacing it with something. I agree, once you set it right you are not out there changing the TM adjustment regularly so that is a limited benefit after initial install.

 

The Ford diagram below explains "how" the PCM is part of a "wastegate control feedback system" that achieves a "precise control" of the wastegate's "position" as a function of "engine load" ...but the diagram doesn't explain "why" Ford's statement... "Note: A tampered or disabled wastegate will result in decreased performance and potential turbocharger damage." ...is in fact a true statement.



As you've correctly pointed out the Turbo Master simply holds the wastegate closed with a spring until the EBP increases to a level that allows the EBP force on the wastegate button valve to overcome the spring force that's holding the wastegate closed ...and then the wastegate just barely opens at all because the wastegate only needs to open just enough to bleed off enough pressure so that the EBP force on the wastegate button valve balances the spring force.

The Ford "wastegate control feedback system" moves the wastegate over a much larger range of motion ...and this reduces "compressor surge" during acceleration ...and it also reduces "pumping loss" for certain engine loads!

As can be seen below...



...when accelerating from a dead stop or from a slower speed the "wastegate control feedback system" needs to limit the boost as a function of engine load (mass air flow and engine RPM) to fairly modest boost levels in order to avoid turbo damaging surge. If you install a Turbo Master you won't have any boost control at lower engine loads or even any boost control at higher engine loads until a maximum boost is achieved ...so unless you're very light on the throttle when accelerating you'll be hitting the surge line at lower RPMs ...and when this is done repeatedly over time the turbo bearing will wear out faster.

Even if you don't hit the surge line at a given engine load if you generate more boost than is needed to combust the fuel by holding the wastegate closed with a Turbo Master you'll be running more EBP than is needed and this increases the "pumping loss" which reduces the engine's efficiency.

 

Thanks for that bit of info. So, that takes the mystery out of the stock set up for me as far as what is being lost with a mechanical unit. I take it this would account for less fuel economy potentially as less efficiency is achieved under certain operating conditions? I believe some have reported losing MPG while running the stock setup with the red tube unplugged.

 

No trouble there, I had to grind the outer edge of a 1/4" drive socket to fit in the bolt hole recess though.

 

Eugene always posts that same information when someone talks about removing the red line or adding a Turbo Master. Most of us take it with a grain of salt because there's a ton of us doing this that haven't had an issue. I also don't think it applies with an ATS housing. I can say for sure that I do NOT have decreased performance or reduced economy. But I am probably wearing the turbo faster, but I'm looking for any excuse at all to go with a 38R.