i got the housing installed and took it for a test drive its still got good power but judgin by my boost gauge its loosing alot. 2k rpm its showing like 2-3 on the gauge and before it was 5-7. it drives the same and no sounds out of the ordinary. is it normal to loose that much with the housing?

 

Shouldn't lose any boost, but you may not have your compressor housing o-ring seated all the way, or have ripped it. I would take a look at that if it continues to seem low.

 

The mounting surface for the wastegate actuator on the ATS housing is less distance than the original housing. Your wastegate rod needs shortened; you are not making boost because your wastegate is probably not able to close and is hanging open. You shouldn't lose any boost with the ATS housing, if you are it's because of the actuator needing adjustment or what Clay said with the orings.

 

x2 for the wastegate adjustment. when i had mine on i tightened the wastegate down real good and in stock mode could boost around 20-22 psi......

 

soo just adjust it tight? i thought it slipped in a little to easy

 

i tightened mine to the point where i could barely get it on the little arm. have you upgraded your boots?

 

I tightened mine to the point where I had to use some compressed air to extend the actuator rod and slip it over the wastegate arm. So it held it closed with tension but would still open.

 

not yet but what gets me is it was running like a top before and still runs like a top just the gauge says its way low. ima try and adjust it and see what it does.

 

well i couldnt get the lil e clip off so i just put nuts in between the actuator and the mounting holes to make up the difference till i get more time. disconnected the red tube and now shes running good.

 

when i adjusted mine with the turbo still on the truck i took out the 2 10mm nuts holding the spring loaded side of the wastegate actuator off and tightened then re-installed.....

 

why didnt you just spin that end to tighten the rod when you had it off??

 

When I tried to adjust mine a few yrs ago, the rod broke . So, I just cut off about 1/8" of the rod and welded it back to the end. Now, no more rods to worry about with my current turbo.

 

Glad you got it sorted it out somewhat. I adding spacers behind the actuator might put unneeded stress on the two studs, they are in single shear and there will be more leverage that way. They seem strong but I broke one off easily before. I like the idea of taking it back off and then spinning the actuator housing to tighten up the rod.
Reps for figuring it out.

 

well i tried spinning the actuator but it didnt do nothing but sqeeked.

 

Turn it by the rod, not the body. OTherwise the diaphragm inside will just spin.