I mean insistent, not instant....whoops. I thank you all very much for your quick answers.

Julie--when I started this thread, I needed ideas on how to fix my problem, but page after page and post after post, people just kept telling me I'm being difficult..and then they would go ahead ant tell me something else I MUST upgrade......unless I were to be some dumb-****.

AX--I have already decided I'm not ready to do my own flarings that would be anything close to par--most of my decision was based off of your info and expertise, I thank you IMMENSELY. Absolutely invaluable info.
------------------
I can take being told the specific task at hand isn't being fixed properly, or I need to go about it differently. What was hard is that again and again I was being told to go deeper and deeper with new things

This thread was initially intended on giving me new suggestions on getting that brake line either fixed or replaced. That's it.

I said it once and I'll say it again: this truck is not a resto-mod, and I never started working on it for me to "ground-up" it(ground-up-restore).
This truck isn't going to be painted--EVER. No new wheels. No stereo. No suspension. No new shiny bed. NOTHING frivolous.

Trust me, when I get the money, the first mod I am going to do is the brakes/cylinder upgrade. I was convinced of this by my own dad months ago when he warned me of it.
I'm not going to ignore it forever, just until I can afford to do it, but until then, the truck has got to run. .....

Thank you all again, I am BEYOND sorry for this drama that I started. ...Again. You guys have got to be the most caring car-enthusiast community out of every car forum/club I've ever been associated with.

 

Looks like you have a plan. Make sure to inspect the remainder of the brake system (hoses, wheel cylinders, hardware, shoes, drums) and repair/replace parts as needed.
Good.
Cool. Make the truck what you want it to be and enjoy!!

 

mORO, the reason people kept telling you to "upgrade", or better said to replace more than you wanted to, is because the scope of your problem was larger than I think you realized, and the simple little fix you were expecting was actually larger than you were willing to accept. You seem to want to "cure a heart attack with a band-aid." Not gonna work son.

And the reason people kept telling you that you were being difficult, is because you were being difficult.

 

I understand.

Although I'm not going to do a complete brake upgrade/overhaul at the flick of a switch because a bunch of members tell/beg me(even if for my own safety or others)...I understand.

 

morotbreath, it is just that many of us do not want you to have some of the unfortunate experiences some of us have had. Beaters can be fun, and cheap. But as you are learning, cheap is sometimes a lot of work and time. At times we all just want to "get the thing on the road". Remember, you can do this in stages. For now, do the "cheap and quick" - replace the old steel lines with the fixed length pre flared pieces coupled together. A bit longer than original is OK, that is what loops and U-bends are for, to take up the excess. Looks can be secondary, right now, for a beater, you want function. Then stomp on that brake pedal real hard to make sure nothing else leaks. Fix anything that does, then get it on the road. But check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder often, and as soon as it starts going down, you must search for the reason and correct it. All a part of having a beater.
Later on when you have the money and time you can rent or buy a good flaring tool, a roll of tube, a handfull of tube nuts, and practice and redo the tube lines to your complete satisfaction

Have fun!

 

I think this horse died about two pages back...

 

I agree with you. Point made.

 

I hear the best way to un-roll the 25' coil of brake line..is to hold one end at the end of a picnic-table,then"slowly" un-roll the coil. Leave a few inches more in length than you need (12").Cut the tubing with a 'tubing cutter"..,then "roll" the cut piece between two 2+4's. If possable,remove the 'complete' original brake-line and use" IT " as a template.
Take a careful look at the replacement lengths of tubing at the parts store..pay close attention to the "flared end"..study the design and what you have learned thus far.Understand the sealing surfaces and 'why' they are flared/double-flared..and how the fitting insures a tight fit.Experiment if you have to on a few short pieces until you can confidently use the flaring tool.
I think the most difficult part of this job will be "removing" the old lines from the frame, and reinstalling your newly flared line where it will not chaffe,rub,kink,or be in the way..yet still be secured and not interfering with other parts...patience( and 'patience will be tried..LoL!) will reward your efforts with a dependable and long lasting system..and will make the "flaring Process" seem simple in comparison.

moro,..You never re-built an engine before this project either right? You made it thru that... This is no different,just another 'system' with another set of 'skill's' to pay attention to and to learn and master.Money may be tight,but the brake system is no place to cut corners, wait until the brakes are 100% before entering a public hi-way.

My 10 year old Cheby started bursting brake lines at about 65k miles,..usually while on a road-trip and several miles/hours from home..thank's to the Dual master cylinder,I could "baby" it back to the driveway.Very disconcerting and scary in stop and go traffic to say the least.."Not so" with the single cylinder master..no margin for error there.
..Rule#1,.. Make sure you have the"Whoa" before the "Go!"..Good Luck!

 

Yup, I think I've answered my last "morotbreath" question. It seems that I'm just not capable of producing the exact answer that he wants to hear. Fortunately for me, Bakersfield is a couple thousand miles from where my wife and I will be driving to work and my kids will be riding their bikes.

 

I didn't ask for anyone to tell me what my truck should become. I asked how I could fix a brake line...and then others chose to shove their opinions of other issues(that I did not ask) down my throat and expect me not to choke.

I'm sorry to frustrate you; I'm not sorry that I can't stop my projects and completely start from square one just because you tell me to.
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Well, I made an interesting discovery today. At one point in this thread I was told that the upgraded and safer MC's were in use by '67.

Heh, funny you should mention that, because I remembered this morning that I have a '67 Fairlane. I took a look at it's MC and guess what, it's the type that I need...go figure. (also a non-power unit)

However, it mounts on the firewall. So I'd have to make an "L" bracket to weld onto the factory MC mount and then use it like that. I think it'd work with some good measurements and fabrication.

It seems to be in good condition, but that doesn't mean I'd use it. I may just use it as a template for setting the system up and then buy a new one when I'm ready. The car it came off of already has a very nice splitter that I will also use. The lines and fittings used by the car are the same size as my truck with the exception of the fittings leaving the MC, they are a bit larger, but I can deal with that. I will not try and use them.

I may start on this brake upgrade sooner than I thought.

Albuq--Yeah, but I think this update was worth it.

 

OK! I wasn't trying to tell you how you should build your truck, that's totally up to you, my only concern is that it is safe for you but most of all for others. Since you were replacing the MC with a new/rebuilt one, I suggested usng a dual circuit one instead since the cost difference would be slight (or maybe even less since DC MCs aren't considered "antiques" .) You'll need to fab or buy an adapter to mount it under the floor. Check on ebay for the adapter, they are not expensive or just use the pix as a model to follow to see what's needed to fab your own. Since your old lines need replacement anyhow, plumbing the DC MC is no additional expense. I can guarantee the flex lines have deteriorated enough from age to need replacing and if the MC was pitted beyond saving the wheel cylinders are in the same condition and/or the bleed nuts are frozen solid and will break off when you attempt to bleed the system (a lesson in frustration more than anything, the broken piece is near impossible to get out requring replacing the wheel cylinder anyhow). A leaking wheel cylinder will flood the brake shoes with brake fluid, contaminated shoes will have to be replaced no matter how new they are. Again the hoses and wheel cylinders are pretty inexpensive and replacing them all will make the job easy and best of all safe!

One more thing, a DC MC that was originally firewall mounted will require adding two residual pressure valves for drum brakes one in each line, when mounted under the floor to keep the fluid from completely syphoning back to the MC when you release the pedal. They are also inexpensive and can be used instead of a coupler fitting to join two premade hardlines solving that issue if located creatively. They can be located most anywhere in the lines between the MC and the wheels.

 

^^Ok, that doesn't seem too hard. The main issue now is the adapter. I will most likely fab one........but then again I didn't know they had ready-made ones already!!!!

Ebay--didn't have any luck when searching.....(but I only tried 4-5 different keyword combos)

EDIT: Found this http://www.performanceonline.com/sto...roductid=16425 But screw that, I can have a metalworker(welder) friend make me something that simple for free!

http://f100central.com/catalog/53-56...a9722d1a6963a7 $94? Really? hahaha Right, what are these things made out of, solid platinum?

 

By the way, just remembered I have such an adapter that I am no longer using, as well as the dc master cylinder.

 

If you use the late-60's Mustang M/C, it is for drum/drum brakes and if I remember correctly, already has residual valves.

 

Well, depending on how hard it's going to be to have a friend make my own for cheap/free, I may be interested.
What would you want for the adapter plate anyways?
What if I don't?

I have no clue what is different about any other MC that'd I'd use, so I'm not understanding the advantage you may be talking about....