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Gooch's Radiator/Engine Backflush Procedure and Coolant Information

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#46

08-06-2010, 09:06 PM

gabeyd

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4 gal concentrated Coolant $60
Water Pump $120
Upper Hose $20
Lower Hose $25
Thermostat $35
New Housing $47
Cap $6
2 5 Gal buckets with lids: $5
Flush T and extra 5/8 hose: $10
20 Gal Water $16

Total: $344

Now, add reservoir $60 and overflow hose $20.

Total: $414

I'm getting into a pretty serious coolant flush.

Anything else I should change while I've got it drained?

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#47

08-06-2010, 11:07 PM

Fat Diesel

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Add forty bucks for a big ol' wrench and water pump wrench to take the fan clutch off the water pump.

I've flushed it twice now that I'm at 250k.

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#48

08-06-2010, 11:28 PM

Stewart_H

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Fat Diesel

Add forty bucks for a big ol' wrench and water pump wrench to take the fan clutch off the water pump.

I've flushed it twice now that I'm at 250k.

Or rent them for free at Autozone.

Stewart

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#49

08-08-2010, 02:29 PM

Waynenap

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I fairly recently, flushed my system with distilled water, replaced the water pump, thermostat, housing, upper and lower hoses and filled it with Ford Premium Gold ELC engine coolant. It appears that this really isn't the most suitable coolant to use. Question; how concerned should I be as to what I'am missing in terms of serviceability. Bottom line, should I replace it now, or will it be okay for awhile?

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#50

08-08-2010, 04:10 PM

Stewart_H

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The Ford Gold isn't a bad coolant (it's also not a true ELC), it's just not the best coolant, or what's recommended for our engine by International.

As Gooch say's...

Quote:

"Ford's Gold (G-05) coolant is nothing like a Heavy Duty ELC coolant. Thus is will not meet the more strict specs of other Heavy Duty ELC coolants, or provide the higher level of protection. The Gold is simply a universal hybrid, one-size-fits-all coolant that Ford uses in its entire line up that, with the exception of the Powerstroke, are all gasoline engines. Ford simply uses the Gold in your diesel out of convenience, simplicity, cost, and uniformity throughout it's product line and dealerships. The Gold coolant contains conventional (green coolant) components like silicate, which eventually form microscopic abrasives that eat water pump seals. It provides a lower level of cavitation protection using traditional SCA's like Nitrite, it has a shorter life, it reduces heat transfer compared to HD ELC's, and it in fact does require testing and SCA maintenance if you are an enthusiast about protecting your engine. In fact Ford recommends you add SCA to the Gold in certain F-Series applications. Caterpillar and John Deere also recommend adding SCA if it is going to be used in their diesels. Ironically, Ford's Gold will not meet International's heavy duty diesel B-1 spec. HD ELC's will. The Gold will work, but it's not the best."

If you have the time and money, I'd say go for the flush and then refill with a true, heavy duty Extended Life Coolant.

If time and money aren't something in good supply for you right now, just wait.

Stewart

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#51

08-08-2010, 04:51 PM

Waynenap

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Stewart_H

The Ford Gold isn't a bad coolant (it's also not a true ELC), it's just not the best coolant, or what's recommended for our engine by International.

As Gooch say's...

If you have the time and money, I'd say go for the flush and then refill with a true, heavy duty Extended Life Coolant.

If time and money aren't something in good supply for you right now, just wait.

Stewart

Thanks Stewart!

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#52

10-05-2010, 04:52 PM

VRC9170

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I am in the process of flushing my engine and replacing the antifreeze with Chevron ELC.
The left side block plug came out but I cannot remove the passenger side block plug. In fact I might have broken a small piece out of it where it protrudes from the block.
What happens if I flush the engine, maybe for a longer time than normal. Will the right side eventually flush out enough? Maybe i should take the starter off and try again.
Bob Bates

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#53

10-05-2010, 05:43 PM

Stewart_H

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It'll take longer to flush the block, but it'll still work.

I'd be more worried about the damage you say may have occured.

Stewart

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#54

10-05-2010, 06:33 PM

VRC9170

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Thanks Stewart,
I thought about that so did a longer flush. The integrety of the plug is OK, I just cannot remove it.
Bob

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#55

10-06-2010, 01:23 PM

DavidE

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Coolant SCA testing procedure?

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w

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ontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> </w:Compatibility> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority

9; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0in; mso-para-margin-right:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} </style> <![endif]--> Have SCA test strips but how do you use/read them? Does the coolant have to be cold to test or ? How often should you test? Strips have red and pink blocks on one end so what do you do with the strips? Parts guy where I got them couldn't(Wouldn't?) tell me what to do with them. Help with this important testing to keep the engine going for as long as possible will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

2002 F350 Lariat Crew, 7.3L, 4R100 , S&B intake, MBRP 4in, Edge Evo, Pacbrake

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#56

11-13-2010, 02:08 PM

PaulDH

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What kind of coolant filter systems are folks running? Are these complete flow-through filters? Or are they bypass filter setups? Any links to known existing threads/posts on the Forum would be nice. Thanks,

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#57

11-13-2010, 02:39 PM

PaysonPSD

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Quote:

Originally Posted by PaulDH

Copy and paste this search string in google. Coolant Filter +7.3 site:ford-trucks.com/forums You will get plenty of info.

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#58

11-13-2010, 05:16 PM

PaulDH

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Quote:

Originally Posted by PaysonPSD

Copy and paste this search string in google. Coolant Filter +7.3 site:ford-trucks.com/forums You will get plenty of info.

Thanks, two hours researching and I finally decided to go the Guzzle coolant bypass filter route:
Welcome to guzzle's Coolant Bypass Filter Mod Web Page

Oh yeah, also located a source of the Delo ELC in Anchorage, Alaska. Sounds like the way to go when I flush and refill the coolant in my 7.3L PS.

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#59

11-13-2010, 07:46 PM

Stangrcr1

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Stewart, Thanks for posting all of this.

With the fresh build of my engine, she will see ELC from now on. Probably the Delo since it is available several places locally.

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