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Gooch's Radiator/Engine Backflush Procedure and Coolant Information

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Gooch's Radiator/Engine Backflush Procedure and Coolant Information

 
  #136  
Old 11-18-2011, 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Spool&Go View Post
This is the stuff that I used.

The Concentrate

Napa coolant image by 1991corvette on Photobucket
Looks like a traditional "green" coolant.

If you haven't already done so, get a bottle of SCA, add it, then measure it with a test strip to make sure you have the correct levels.

Stewart
 
  #137  
Old 11-26-2011, 08:55 PM
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Thanks to you Stewart and all the others, Gooch for sure. I was lucky to find this thread a couple of weeks ago, especially since I was about to change my green coolant for more green. A bit pricey, but I should never have to touch my coolant system again. I did water pump, hoses, t-stat, flushed everything. The fan clutch kicked my a**, but didn't loose too much blood when the wrench slipped.
I had to buy a case (6 gallons) from a lube distributor, so if anyone in the Houston area needs a gallon pm me. I will keep one gallon just in case. It's Chevrons Delo HD ELC, concentrate.
Thanks again.
Tom.
 
  #138  
Old 11-26-2011, 10:00 PM
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Glad I could help.

Stewart
 
  #139  
Old 11-27-2011, 04:17 PM
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I second that. Thanks for everything guys. I appreciate it.
 
  #140  
Old 11-27-2011, 11:09 PM
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Distilled water. Any particular type or just something from Wal*Mart? I read the label and it does seem to have some stuff in it. As I understand it, distilled water should be water and nothing, right? Anyone care to give me a clue? I used to know someone in the lab so distilled water was easy to get. Not so anymore since she quit her job there.
 
  #141  
Old 11-28-2011, 01:49 AM
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Deionized is best, but yeah, distilled from anywhere will work.

I've done this three times now and each time I just bought a bunch from Walmart, which was the cheapest place.

Stewart
 
  #142  
Old 05-23-2012, 10:38 AM
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Anyone know how Amsoil ANT tests up to the delo hd elc?
 
  #143  
Old 05-23-2012, 10:44 AM
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Probably costs twice as much.

It's a "revolutionary formulation" based on propylene glycol, it's "compatible" with almost everything, and even stops leaks! See:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ant.aspx

About forty bucks a gallon.......

Pop
 
  #144  
Old 05-23-2012, 10:51 AM
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Suprisingly enough, becoming an Amsoil dealer ($10) has saved me $200 on fluids already (shipping included) over what I would have put in the truck. Not to mention 3x longer oil change intervals and oil filters that last 25K, i'll try to find amsoil alternatives in my truck for as long as the savings and quality continue.
 
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Old 05-23-2012, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Sigskydiver View Post
Suprisingly enough, becoming an Amsoil dealer ($10) has saved me $200 on fluids already (shipping included) over what I would have put in the truck. Not to mention 3x longer oil change intervals and oil filters that last 25K, i'll try to find amsoil alternatives in my truck for as long as the savings and quality continue.
No one accepts a religion better than those that become its clergy.

Jus' sayin'.......

Pop
 
  #146  
Old 05-23-2012, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Sigskydiver View Post
Suprisingly enough, becoming an Amsoil dealer ($10) has saved me $200 on fluids already (shipping included) over what I would have put in the truck. Not to mention 3x longer oil change intervals and oil filters that last 25K, i'll try to find amsoil alternatives in my truck for as long as the savings and quality continue.
So, would a normal buyer save anything using Amsoil? Delo ELC pretty much lasts forever, at least I won't have to do anything for 2-300k miles in my truck.
And, surprised Amsoil didn't provide info regarding a comparison, for sales pitches.
 
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Old 05-23-2012, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by trekbasso View Post
So, would a normal buyer save anything using Amsoil? Delo ELC pretty much lasts forever, at least I won't have to do anything for 2-300k miles in my truck.
And, surprised Amsoil didn't provide info regarding a comparison, for sales pitches.
Of course they had a comparison, just not to the Delo that I was looking towards. I consider myself a normal buyer, just paid the $10 dealer fee to get dealer pricing. They claim 20-25% off, looks about right. With the fluids I've been looking at, they're normally cheaper than the equivalent fluid of another name brand, with a longer change interval. I simply shop for the cheapest prices and it was cost conscious for me.

Originally Posted by SpringerPop View Post
No one accepts a religion better than those that become its clergy.

Jus' sayin'.......

Pop
Like whoever you like, the proof is in the wallet. Dont always go Ams, just when the price is right. Everyone has their own flavor of coolaid...
 
  #148  
Old 05-29-2012, 12:55 AM
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Adding more info obtained from Gooch regarding the pH of ELC, from about a year ago:

pH is a good indicator of the condition of your ELC. Right out of the bottle the pH of ELC will be considerably lower than conventional (green) coolants. Say a pH of 8.3 for ELC and 10.5 for conventional.

A key point here is that you really have to know the original/baseline pH of the type of coolant you have when it is new (and diluted with H2O) to compare a later test of pH with. You can test the pH (after you mix with H2O) and write it down somewhere when you switch out to the ELC.

A sign that the ELC has lost it's ability to protect the engine would be more associated with a lowering pH than a high pH. A lowering pH is a sign the inhibitors are being depleted. But this happens very slowly in good HD ELC's. Say 1.0-1.5 pH in 100K miles would be normal.

The addition of extender (not SCA) will raise the pH back up (by adding inhibitors). On the other hand, a rising pH can mean something is going on with the engine, like contamination, etc. Again, just make sure your baseline pH wasn't high to begin with (adding H2O with a high pH at original fill will do that too).

I know companies like Penray and Acustrip make test strips for ELC. They will test the pH and RA (reserve alkalinity) of the ELC along with freezepoint and nitrite (if coolant has nitrite). CAT also has test strips and a SOS test program for ELC, but really, unless you have reason to believe your engine or cooling system has a problem, there is no reason to spend the money to test it (it's cheaper to just change out the coolant).

Just change it out at the recommended interval, or add the extender (not SCA). Color and freeze point are really all the indicators you need with ELC. BTW, I wouldn't rely on the RA test strips as much as the pH test strips for ELC. RA doesn't really show a good indication of inhibitor condition in ELC since ELC's don't always have the inhibitors RA checks for, and RA will be much lower in ELC's compared to conventionals, say almost cut in half.
So, your pH should be based on a comparison of what it was when you diluted it upon initial fill.

Stewart
 
  #149  
Old 06-01-2012, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H View Post
Since a lot of times forum searches for radiator flush threads are done because someone is planning on replacing their water pump, I thought it would be a good idea to post Maintain's often searched for YouTube vid for water pump R&R.

YouTube - Water Pump RnR

Stewart
Adding Trey's water pump removal vid to the thread. Can never have too many instructional videos!

7.3L PSD - How To: Replace Water Pump - YouTube

Stewart
 
  #150  
Old 06-01-2012, 09:24 AM
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Thanks for keeping up with this Stewart.
I did the water pump, etc., and flushed and hoses at same time. A great way to do the flush with it all apart.
Very glad I changed to the re-routed hose, as I have had to change the belt twice since doing the flush, nice not to break coolant system open.
 

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