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Lucas Girling Parking Brake chamber

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Lucas Girling Parking Brake chamber

  #16  
Old 06-10-2010, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by blinkjs View Post
Where do you find parts for the Lucas Girling brake system?
Start here Lucas Girling - Haldex product category

There is a link for distributors on that page plus it looks like a lot of other good info on these brakes. You might also try a Ford dealer that deals in medium duty trucks and catch someone there who knows what these are.
 
  #17  
Old 06-10-2010, 11:35 AM
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Most truck parts centers still carry them as they are very common and still in use. I had to replace due to blown cylinder and purchased the whole backing plate loaded with 2 new cylinders, springs, etc....dealer was a no go, local truck center had them in stock.
 
  #18  
Old 01-29-2011, 07:04 AM
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I have the same problem HELP Please

Originally Posted by yiha8088 View Post
I'm looking for some help on removing a lucas girling parking brake chamber on a mid 80's L8000. I'm trying to remove the wheel cylinder/expander that it's attached to in order to remove a broken brake line and have gotten stumped with this brake chamber. I was hoping to back off the large (2" or so) retaining nut and then it would come off. However that doesn't seem to happen. I can back this nut off about 5 turns or so, then it doesn't go any more. It appears that there are still threads there holding it to the wheel cylinder but it's like the nut bottoms out and doesn't want to turn any more. Anyone out there have any suggestions on this as this is my first time messing with this system?

Thanks

I am having the very same problem with my 1986 F600 dump truck. Have you got it worked out? Please let me know how to do it if you have.
Thanks
 
  #19  
Old 01-29-2011, 09:59 AM
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Are you talking about the parking (spring brake) cylinder? If so, you HAVE to cage the spring! Be very careful messing with that 2" nut without caging. Cage by turning the nut that is pinned to the threaded rod on the back of the can and DO NOT USE an impact wrench to do so. It will be caged when there is 2" of threaded rod between the can and the bottom of the nut.
 
  #20  
Old 01-29-2011, 10:23 PM
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You only need to break loose the 2" nut, removing the "can" requires (in this sequence) caging, removing the bleeder fitting, removing the brake line (and plugging), removing the fitting the break line went into and then turning the can itself, the 2" nut is just a locknut, the can screws into the backing plate, not the nut.
 
  #21  
Old 09-23-2015, 02:08 PM
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To cage the L-G parking brake, does it need to be released? Can you manually cage it with it engaged, ie-hydraulic leak no hydraulic pressure available.
 
  #22  
Old 09-23-2015, 09:27 PM
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It makes it easier to cage with the brake set to on, safer too as the engine needs to be running to turn them off and you don't need to be under there with it running.

These are designed to always be in the "on" state unless hydraulic pressure is applied, this way if something go's wrong with the hydro system and it loses pressure the brakes will go to the on state. There is a heavy spring inside the can trying to apply brake pressure 24/7, the hydro pressure overcomes the spring pressure when setting to off.
I use a cordless drill set to low speed but break it lose with a ratchet first, don't use an impact...no need and you could damage the threaded rod. Don't forget to chock the wheels too.
 
  #23  
Old 09-24-2015, 02:52 PM
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Thanx Rotun for quick response. I've got the caging nut all the way out but didn't get any resistance doing it, so assume it's not caged?????
 
  #24  
Old 09-25-2015, 08:50 AM
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You should feel quite a bit of resistance, as you back out the nut you are compressing the brake spring. IIRC, there should be about 3-4" of threaded rod sticking out from the back of the can.
 
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