Start here Lucas Girling - Haldex product category

There is a link for distributors on that page plus it looks like a lot of other good info on these brakes. You might also try a Ford dealer that deals in medium duty trucks and catch someone there who knows what these are.

 

Most truck parts centers still carry them as they are very common and still in use. I had to replace due to blown cylinder and purchased the whole backing plate loaded with 2 new cylinders, springs, etc....dealer was a no go, local truck center had them in stock.

 

I am having the very same problem with my 1986 F600 dump truck. Have you got it worked out? Please let me know how to do it if you have.
Thanks

 

Are you talking about the parking (spring brake) cylinder? If so, you HAVE to cage the spring! Be very careful messing with that 2" nut without caging. Cage by turning the nut that is pinned to the threaded rod on the back of the can and DO NOT USE an impact wrench to do so. It will be caged when there is 2" of threaded rod between the can and the bottom of the nut.

 

You only need to break loose the 2" nut, removing the "can" requires (in this sequence) caging, removing the bleeder fitting, removing the brake line (and plugging), removing the fitting the break line went into and then turning the can itself, the 2" nut is just a locknut, the can screws into the backing plate, not the nut.

 

To cage the L-G parking brake, does it need to be released? Can you manually cage it with it engaged, ie-hydraulic leak no hydraulic pressure available.

 

It makes it easier to cage with the brake set to on, safer too as the engine needs to be running to turn them off and you don't need to be under there with it running.

These are designed to always be in the "on" state unless hydraulic pressure is applied, this way if something go's wrong with the hydro system and it loses pressure the brakes will go to the on state. There is a heavy spring inside the can trying to apply brake pressure 24/7, the hydro pressure overcomes the spring pressure when setting to off.
I use a cordless drill set to low speed but break it lose with a ratchet first, don't use an impact...no need and you could damage the threaded rod. Don't forget to chock the wheels too.

 

Thanx Rotun for quick response. I've got the caging nut all the way out but didn't get any resistance doing it, so assume it's not caged?????

 

You should feel quite a bit of resistance, as you back out the nut you are compressing the brake spring. IIRC, there should be about 3-4" of threaded rod sticking out from the back of the can.

 

Has anyone had luck with this? I caged both my rear brakes one can spins loosely after backing off the 2" locking nut confirming the cage was correct but my other can is stiff.. tightened 2" back up the side that is acting caged trying to figure out the best option? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!