When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
99 2.5L dropped $200 last year to have the a/c recharged. a/c was okay last year then this year it doesn't blow any cold air. took it to a shop, said the refrigerant was low but no leaks? so i tried one of those $40 refill kits from your local parts store (to be honest i'm not looking to drop another $200 on the a/c and it not to work), and its tellin me its full? the gauge on it when the compressor is cycling like it should says it is it the top of the good range. i know this **** isn't anything to mess around with so i figure i'd turn it over to anyone out there and see if anyones got any ideas. if it helps the blend door i think is shot on it too, the thing is eratic blowing warm and cold air throughout the winter time (and yes i changed the thermostat). thanks for the help.
Low on refrigerant but no leaks? Umm...yea...okay.
Actually, you need a real manifold gauge set so that you can read the pressures on both sides of the system. Try Auto Zone, the one near me will rent one. That cheap gauge on the can is about worthless.
With the AC on, blower on high, windows open and the engine at 1500 rpm, feel the lines where they exit the firewall. If they are the same temperature (and really cold) the refrigerant level is close.
How fast is it cycling, on-time and off-time?
There's no great mystery to AC work. Repairs are very doable DIY. If you can source a gauge set and vacuum pump, you could reseal the whole system, evacuate and charge it on a Saturday afternoon.
working on one right now, no leaks on the a/c that we could find. my wife was looking under the car and saw some bubbles around the compressor where it bolts together. YES that is a leak for sure, putting on a new one. if the large line cumming out of the firewall is cold your a/c is working fine, but the heater can kill all the cold air. check the heater hose on both the in and out side lines, if both lines are hot your heater is working and the a/c temp. will be warm too.
working on one right now, no leaks on the a/c that we could find. my wife was looking under the car and saw some bubbles around the compressor where it bolts together. YES that is a leak for sure, putting on a new one. if the large line cumming out of the firewall is cold your a/c is working fine, but the heater can kill all the cold air. check the heater hose on both the in and out side lines, if both lines are hot your heater is working and the a/c temp. will be warm too.
isn't the heater control valve suppose to block the heater hose whne the Ac is on?
yes but if both hoses are hot it not working. heater controls can go out and do sometimes. have one that i have to turn off the water to have cold air or it is all hot air. but this is on my kenworth t600 in the sleeper only or i have hot air in it.
When the a/c is running one refrigerant line going into the cab should get cold to touch. If it does you have blend door issues(door is stuck in full heat position and blocking cold air flow).
isn't the heater control valve suppose to block the heater hose whne the Ac is on?
Not many vehicles have a heater control valve these days. I'm pretty sure the OPs 99 Ranger doesn't. Temperature is usually controlled by a blend door directing air to or away from the heater core. All of the intake air passes through the evaporator if the vehicle has AC.
Not many vehicles have a heater control valve these days. I'm pretty sure the OPs 99 Ranger doesn't. Temperature is usually controlled by a blend door directing air to or away from the heater core. All of the intake air passes through the evaporator if the vehicle has AC.
There is indeed a heater control valve (a/k/a hot water control valve) on the '99 Ranger, and it cuts off coolant flow to the heater core in MAX/AC mode.
You are correct that the blend door is the primary temperature control component. But note that the heater control valve and the outside recirculation air door are on the same vacuum circuit. See: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Recirculate in other modes?
There is indeed a heater control valve (a/k/a hot water control valve) on the '99 Ranger, and it cuts off coolant flow to the heater core in MAX/AC mode.
You are correct that the blend door is the primary temperature control component. But note that the heater control valve and the outside recirculation air door are on the same vacuum circuit. See: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Recirculate in other modes?
There sure is. I stand corrected.
In this application the valve blocks coolant flow to the heater core in Max-AC (Recirc Mode) to help with cooling. It's also closed in the Off position to keep heat from circulating with the system off.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.