Pushed on.

 

would this work? Watts 3/8 OD x 1/4 ID x 10 Ft. Latex Hose - SLGE10 at The Home Depot

 

Exactly,but 10' won't be enough for one door and price in Canada 18.00 Can. per roll of 10 feet it's a joke.

 

Just finished the two back doors. 20 ft per door. Cost a whopping $4.44 per 20ft roll except i did it with vinyil tubing not latex tubing.
Took roughly an hour per door....

 

BTW, new weatherstrips through Parts guy Ed is about $52 plus shipping.

 

The only time you should need the latex tubing is if you live in cold climates. The latex holds its shape better in cold.

 

Here's a quick video on how I did my door seals on a 2011 Super Duty. I also did this on my 99 Expedition and 2000 Excursion. Big improvement:

YouTube - Door Seal Modification Ford Super Duty

 

So just finished the mod on the rear passenger door. The rattle was driving me absolutely bonkers. I got 20 feet of clear vinyl tubing from Home Depot, and thanks to the suggestions here, took about 30 minutes.

The door shuts tight and the rattle has been eliminated. HOWEVER...the top corner on the trailing edge (opposite side of the hinged side) now sticks out more than normal. It's not a huge gap, and its only happening at the top corner. But still...I notice it.

I will live with it for now since I hate the rattle more than I do the door looking like its ajar. However, I'll probably will reach the point where the current fix won't satisfy me anymore.

So here is my question: Is this happening because the vinyl tubing is so stiff? Would using latex or foam backing tube better prevent this?

 

The vinyl tubing is very stout stuff. I personally don't think it's suitable for the door seal especially when you consider winter temperatures are going to make it worse. Better to replace it with 3/8 inch OD surgical tubing with 1/16th inch wall thickness (you can go thicker if needed). I'll bet right now the vinyl is deflecting only a little and the rubber portion is getting absolutely crushed.

 

You're right. The rubber is probably getting absolutely mashed with the door closed. But at the same time, prior to putting in the tubing, I could grab the door at the top with my fingers and make it rattle while it was closed.

So what is the 'right fix'...i.e. adjusting the door to close like its supposed to? After all, the rest of the doors don't rattle with the original seals.

 

There was someone recently who installed 1/8th inch walled tubing instead of the usual 1/16th walled tubing. He said it was pretty stiff compared to the usual stuff. This might be a good solution for you. You would still get robust seal support but not so hard that it cracks in the winter and damages the existing rubber. You can find that specific tubing online pretty cheaply at scuba supply distributors.