I need help!! Overheating
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 524
Likes: 2
From: Redmond, Or
I need help!! Overheating
I have been chasing this BS for a week,,,... I need help... in the last two weeks when under a load towing or pulling a steep grade the truck has been getting hot!! like right to the red if i keep going hot. I have replaced the waterpump x2, the thermostat x3, the clutch fan x2, and thought i had it whipped until my drive home tonight. once again i had to let out of the throttle to get temps back down. Dosent matter if i run it in 80e, 60t, or stock, still gets hot. EGT's are under 1200 towing or pulling a grade, boost is around 10 psi. yesterday i ran the **** out of it and it never overheated. got to almost half but always cooled right back down to 1/4. I can t figure this out. only thing i havent changed is the degas bottle and cap. but i cant see how that would matter. maybe i am way off base... Chit !!! about $600.00 in parts already and the same chit..... I just sont get it and need some help before i burn this thing to the ground.......
Thanks in advance..
Bryan
Thanks in advance..
Bryan
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
From: Van Alstyne, TX
A couple of possibilities come to mind. I assume that your "getting hot" refers to the truck over heating since you stated that the egt's are within range. Typical sources of overheating other than the ones that you have mentioned include a leak in the cooling system or a clogged radiator. Have you been loosing coolant? If you have a pinhole leak (either in a hose, seal, the radiator, or the block, the temperature will come up when the engine is under stress, but it typically does not cool back to range quickly if you remove the stress. In other words, the heat kind of hangs around. Look closely when the truck is hot to see if you can find a coolant leak anywhere.
Another possibility is that the radiator is somewhat clogged and not work efficiently. If this is your problem, you may be able to fix it by taking the radiator to a shop and having it boiled out. The only alternative would be to replace the radiator.
Another possibility is that the radiator is somewhat clogged and not work efficiently. If this is your problem, you may be able to fix it by taking the radiator to a shop and having it boiled out. The only alternative would be to replace the radiator.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 1
From: Oregon
I have an extra degas bottle if you want to throw it on, I doubt that is the problem. I assume you are talking water temps, do you have an oil temp gauge or an ae to look at the actual oil temp? Might be you are not getting a good ground on the sending unit for your water temp.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 524
Likes: 2
From: Redmond, Or
I have an extra degas bottle if you want to throw it on, I doubt that is the problem. I assume you are talking water temps, do you have an oil temp gauge or an ae to look at the actual oil temp? Might be you are not getting a good ground on the sending unit for your water temp.
Oh no, Its getting HOT, if i let it it will go to the red, yes the water temp, no ae, or oil temp gauge. I have not been loosing water/antifreeze, that i can tell. just cant keep it from getting hot. Thanks for the offer on the degas bottle, I am going to pick one up tomorrow and a new cap just for Chits and giggles. I am at a complete loss here
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 524
Likes: 2
From: Redmond, Or
A couple of possibilities come to mind. I assume that your "getting hot" refers to the truck over heating since you stated that the egt's are within range. Typical sources of overheating other than the ones that you have mentioned include a leak in the cooling system or a clogged radiator. Have you been loosing coolant? If you have a pinhole leak (either in a hose, seal, the radiator, or the block, the temperature will come up when the engine is under stress, but it typically does not cool back to range quickly if you remove the stress. In other words, the heat kind of hangs around. Look closely when the truck is hot to see if you can find a coolant leak anywhere.
Another possibility is that the radiator is somewhat clogged and not work efficiently. If this is your problem, you may be able to fix it by taking the radiator to a shop and having it boiled out. The only alternative would be to replace the radiator.
Another possibility is that the radiator is somewhat clogged and not work efficiently. If this is your problem, you may be able to fix it by taking the radiator to a shop and having it boiled out. The only alternative would be to replace the radiator.
Thanks,
Bryan
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 27
From: Mesa AZ
You might try testing your cap to see if it holds pressure. The dealer can test it for you if you ask. My truck started running hot (needle right up against the red) when pulling a heavy load up a grade last summer. I checked my cap and it was bad. Installed a new cap and the problem was solved.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 524
Likes: 2
From: Redmond, Or
You might try testing your cap to see if it holds pressure. The dealer can test it for you if you ask. My truck started running hot (needle right up against the red) when pulling a heavy load up a grade last summer. I checked my cap and it was bad. Installed a new cap and the problem was solved.
No Chit.... Thanks I will try it tomorrow, I guess i always assume the worst...
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Archdale,N.C.
I have been chasing this BS for a week,,,... I need help... in the last two weeks when under a load towing or pulling a steep grade the truck has been getting hot!! like right to the red if i keep going hot. I have replaced the waterpump x2, the thermostat x3, the clutch fan x2, and thought i had it whipped until my drive home tonight. once again i had to let out of the throttle to get temps back down. Dosent matter if i run it in 80e, 60t, or stock, still gets hot. EGT's are under 1200 towing or pulling a grade, boost is around 10 psi. yesterday i ran the **** out of it and it never overheated. got to almost half but always cooled right back down to 1/4. I can t figure this out. only thing i havent changed is the degas bottle and cap. but i cant see how that would matter. maybe i am way off base... Chit !!! about $600.00 in parts already and the same chit..... I just sont get it and need some help before i burn this thing to the ground.......
Thanks in advance..
Bryan
Thanks in advance..
Bryan
Bryan,I couldn't see this untill I pulled the rad.out.I wasn't having an over heating issue,but I wanted to do a complete flush and clean,again,this couldn't be seen from ANY angle.You have to remove the rubber-ish cover on top of the rad.If I'm correct,I think Dan(kwikordead) had the same problem.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Redmond, Or
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,498
Likes: 3
From: Windsor, Colorado
I had the exact same thing when I was pulling. The thing was getting hot going up hills. Pulled the radiator and looked similar to Phil's! It was caked with mud and I couldn't see it until I pulled it out. hit it with a pressure washer, reinstalled and never had another issue.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,647
Likes: 0
From: Fulltime RVer
After you're up to normal operating temperature pull to the side of the road and use an "IR gun" to measure the temperature of the upper and lower radiator hoses ...you should see about a 30*F difference!
Are you sure it's an actual overheat versus a bad connection to your dash gauge?
Is the fan clutch fully engaged when you experience an overheated condition?
Below is a summary from the Ford Service Manual for testing the fan clutch ...
...Fan Clutch Test—Maximum Speed Requirement...
1) Block off areas on each side of the radiator in the engine compartment and the front of the radiator grille. This will raise the temperature of the air striking the fan clutch and should cause the fan blade to operate at maximum speed.
2) Start the engine and run it at approximately 1,500 rpm until the normal operating temperature has been achieved.
3) Place the climate control function selector switch in the MAX A/C position and the blower motor switch in the HI position.
4) Adjust the strobe to 3,600 rpm for 7.3L diesel engines and adjust the engine speed until the strobe light flash and the water pump pulley mark are synchronized.
5) NOTE: The temperature of the air hitting the fan clutch should be above 96°C (205°F) for maximum fan speed.
6) If the fan blade speed is less than 2,850 rpm on 7.3L engines, install a new fan clutch.
Here's the complete version...
Are you sure it's an actual overheat versus a bad connection to your dash gauge?
Is the fan clutch fully engaged when you experience an overheated condition?
Below is a summary from the Ford Service Manual for testing the fan clutch ...
...Fan Clutch Test—Maximum Speed Requirement...
1) Block off areas on each side of the radiator in the engine compartment and the front of the radiator grille. This will raise the temperature of the air striking the fan clutch and should cause the fan blade to operate at maximum speed.
2) Start the engine and run it at approximately 1,500 rpm until the normal operating temperature has been achieved.
3) Place the climate control function selector switch in the MAX A/C position and the blower motor switch in the HI position.
4) Adjust the strobe to 3,600 rpm for 7.3L diesel engines and adjust the engine speed until the strobe light flash and the water pump pulley mark are synchronized.
5) NOTE: The temperature of the air hitting the fan clutch should be above 96°C (205°F) for maximum fan speed.
6) If the fan blade speed is less than 2,850 rpm on 7.3L engines, install a new fan clutch.
Here's the complete version...
...This help? found this out of my Service Manual ...Fan Clutch Test
Spin the fan blade (8600) by hand. A light resistance should be felt. If there is no resistance or very high resistance, the minimum and maximum fan speeds must be checked as follows:
Fan Clutch Test—Minimum Speed Requirement
Use a suitable marker to mark the water pump pulley (8509), one of the fan blade retaining bolts and the crankshaft pulley (6312).
Connect a tachometer to the engine.
Install a throttle adjusting tool.
Connect the Digital Photoelectric Tachometer.
WARNING: To avoid the possibility of personal injury or damage to the vehicle, do not operate the engine until the fan blade has been first examined for possible cracks and separation.
Start the engine and run it at approximately 1,500 rpm until the normal operating temperature has been achieved.
Operate the strobe light at 4,320 rpm for 5.4L and 6.8L engines and 3600 rpm for 7.3L diesel engines, and aim it at the water pump pulley. Adjust the engine speed until the light flash and the water pump pulley mark are synchronized.
Aim the strobe light at the fan blade bolts. Adjust the strobe light until the light flash is synchronized with the marked fan blade bolt (the fan blade appears to stand still).
The fan blade speed must not be greater than 1,900 rpm on 5.4L engines and 2,000 rpm on 6.8L and 7.3L engines.
Turn the engine off.
If the fan blade speed was greater than 1,900 rpm (on 5.4L) (on diesel engines and 6.8L, 2,000 rpm), install a new fan clutch (8A616).
Fan Clutch Test—Maximum Speed Requirement
Perform Steps 1 through 5 of the Fan Clutch Test—Minimum Speed Requirement.
NOTE: The temperature of the air hitting the fan clutch should be above 96°C (205°F) for maximum fan speed.
Block off areas on each side of the radiator in the engine compartment and the front of the radiator grille (8200). This will raise the temperature of the air striking the fan clutch and should cause the fan blade to operate at maximum speed.
Place the climate control function selector switch in the MAX A/C position and the blower motor switch in the HI position.
Adjust the strobe to 4,320 rpm for 5.4L and 6.8L engines and 3,600 rpm for 7.3L diesel engines.
WARNING: To avoid the possibility of personal injury or damage to the vehicle, do not operate the engine until the fan blade has been first examined for possible cracks and separation.
Start the engine and adjust the engine speed until the strobe light flash and the water pump pulley mark are synchronized.
Aim the strobe light at the fan blade retaining bolts. Adjust the strobe light until the light flash is synchronized with the marked fan blade bolt (the fan blade appears to stand still).
If the fan blade speed is less than 3,600 rpm on 5.4L engines and 3,500 rpm on 6.8L engines, 2,850 rpm on 7.3L engines, install a new fan clutch.
Spin the fan blade (8600) by hand. A light resistance should be felt. If there is no resistance or very high resistance, the minimum and maximum fan speeds must be checked as follows:
Fan Clutch Test—Minimum Speed Requirement
Use a suitable marker to mark the water pump pulley (8509), one of the fan blade retaining bolts and the crankshaft pulley (6312).
Connect a tachometer to the engine.
Install a throttle adjusting tool.
Connect the Digital Photoelectric Tachometer.
WARNING: To avoid the possibility of personal injury or damage to the vehicle, do not operate the engine until the fan blade has been first examined for possible cracks and separation.
Start the engine and run it at approximately 1,500 rpm until the normal operating temperature has been achieved.
Operate the strobe light at 4,320 rpm for 5.4L and 6.8L engines and 3600 rpm for 7.3L diesel engines, and aim it at the water pump pulley. Adjust the engine speed until the light flash and the water pump pulley mark are synchronized.
Aim the strobe light at the fan blade bolts. Adjust the strobe light until the light flash is synchronized with the marked fan blade bolt (the fan blade appears to stand still).
The fan blade speed must not be greater than 1,900 rpm on 5.4L engines and 2,000 rpm on 6.8L and 7.3L engines.
Turn the engine off.
If the fan blade speed was greater than 1,900 rpm (on 5.4L) (on diesel engines and 6.8L, 2,000 rpm), install a new fan clutch (8A616).
Fan Clutch Test—Maximum Speed Requirement
Perform Steps 1 through 5 of the Fan Clutch Test—Minimum Speed Requirement.
NOTE: The temperature of the air hitting the fan clutch should be above 96°C (205°F) for maximum fan speed.
Block off areas on each side of the radiator in the engine compartment and the front of the radiator grille (8200). This will raise the temperature of the air striking the fan clutch and should cause the fan blade to operate at maximum speed.
Place the climate control function selector switch in the MAX A/C position and the blower motor switch in the HI position.
Adjust the strobe to 4,320 rpm for 5.4L and 6.8L engines and 3,600 rpm for 7.3L diesel engines.
WARNING: To avoid the possibility of personal injury or damage to the vehicle, do not operate the engine until the fan blade has been first examined for possible cracks and separation.
Start the engine and adjust the engine speed until the strobe light flash and the water pump pulley mark are synchronized.
Aim the strobe light at the fan blade retaining bolts. Adjust the strobe light until the light flash is synchronized with the marked fan blade bolt (the fan blade appears to stand still).
If the fan blade speed is less than 3,600 rpm on 5.4L engines and 3,500 rpm on 6.8L engines, 2,850 rpm on 7.3L engines, install a new fan clutch.
PREMIUM SPONSOR
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 6,039
Likes: 74
What are you reading your temps from? The dash gauge?
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,975
Likes: 19
From: Archdale,N.C.
LOL,it wasn't a nest.just a whole lotta leaves/debris that got caked in over time.Alot of what I got out of the rad.,doesn't show in those pics.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 13
From: Glendive, MT
That nest so to speek is the next thing. There are a lot of cottonwood trees in my home town. That cotton has a way of making it through the first layer of coolers then plugging the ones behind. You might even have a nest blocking air flow through your intercooler.