O.K. ya'll here's the skinny....
I'm buyin a 2003 f-250 w/ a 5.4 2v....Automatic. Great price. 40K miles. It has a BAD case of what I believe is rod knock. Sounds terminal. soo... If I repair this engine, or replace it with another, is there any thing I should know about the 5.4 2V ??.. If I buy an engine from a yard, are there any durability or performance mods anyone could recommend before we stick a new one or the rebuilt one back in??.. And how about some advice on the install... I understand things are TIGHT .......
My current truck is a 95 F-150 with a perfect 300 I-6... RUNS AMAZING.
Thanks in advance. Clutch47

 

They are usually bulletproof and seem to last a very long time. It is not uncommon for them to go well over 200K with few problems. Not sure why a 40K engine is knocking unless it was run out of oil or something. Just use Motorcraft oil filters and 5w20 viscosity oil. Never personally installed one but there seems to be more room in the SD than the F150 that I had.

 

Bump........
Anyone have anything else to add???....
How about a good recommendation on a crate or longblock supplier??...
Thanks Clutch47

 

Contact Ed the Ford parts guy here. He can arrange a rebuilt crate engine to be delivered to your closest dealer, I believe, and he has GREAT prices.

As for durability, if you are looking for a used engine, use the following information as a guide to find an engine that definitely has the "long thread" heads. Use the manufacture date of the ENGINE to compare to the following info:

December 1996 - 4.6L 4V alignment feature added
February 1997 - 4.6L 2V head alignment feature added
September 2000 - WEP (Windsor Engine Plant) 2V head alignment feature modified (4.6/5.4/6.8)
November 2002 - WEP introduced long thread heads on 2V (all)
May 2003 - REP (Romeo Engine Plant) introduced long-thread heads on 4V 4.6 and 5.4
November 2003 - REP introduced long-thread heads on 2V and modified alignment feature

In 1999, and 2001, an interim fix was done for a cross-threading issue.
Original process:

Step 1 - Zero torque spark plug (air tool)
Step 2 - Torque to 16-20Nm final torque (DC Run down), monitor at 6-12Nm, and final torque must be reached within 0-360 degrees.

New process (addressed the possibility of applying installation torque for more than 25 degrees of rotation)
Step 1 - Zero torque spark plug (air tool)
Step 2 - Torque to 16-20Nm final torque (DC Run down) start monitor at 6-12Nm, and final torque must be reached within 3-25 degrees.

Another action to address cross-threading was the addition of an alignment feature to lead the plug into the hole.

 

not to dealer, but if there is a warehouse near your location I've had some success with a few local pickups.

 

Sorry Ed, I'll get it straight one of these days

 

no worries, keep pimp'n me....lol