ok so Im lost here do you have the missing part of the oil stand pipe or do you just think its broken. if its missing its more then likly melted. that basicly means that you are going to need an enigne. if you have the part and its not melted remove and inspect the ipr valve.

 

Okay... I looked at my oil filter base assembly of my 2006 superduty just to be sure what the inside is suposed to look like. If the up pipe is the same as the 06 there is also a huge spring which pushes up on the bottom of the filter.

If the 2004 was the same then there is no way of melting a spring. As I look at the bottom of the filter housing I can see that the oil tube is cleanly broken off... it is not melted. My Ford parts guy tells me I can remove two screws and install a new up pipe assembly.

There is no sign of any melting plastic as suggested but it seems that it has been broken off clean and someone evidently threw it away and installed the filter. How ellse could the spring have dissapeared ?

This company has 12- 14 guys of various abilities who are working in and around the shop at any given time. Who knows... they seem to be in a rush rush rush around there and since so much happens and so many guys there is little accountability. Someone may have simply removed the broken pieces of the tube/spring assembly and said we we"ll worry about it next time. Hard to know what happened but it is obvious that the spring had to be removed by someone.

I will try and have a look at the ipr valve.

 

There is a oil check valve in the bottom of the oil filter housing that allows oil to flow to the high pressure oil system to operate the fuel injectors. if the black plactic pipe inside is broken into pieces then it will not align the filter to press on this check valve to allow oil to flow to the high pressure system. most likely the valve isnt being pressed and no oil to injectors = no pressure to hp oil system to operate injectors. if this is the only issue then there is one torques bit bolt holding the base of the black plastic oil filter alignment pipe in. remove that and replace it with a new one from your dealer. do an oil change and put in a new filter. give it a good long crank and see what happens. reading this im about 90% positive this should get you started or at least getting the engine to where it wants to start given that it doesnt have any other thing wrong with it. garunteed this can cause a no start concern.

Certified Ford Technician (from Oregon)

ps. hope you love oregon!!!

 

Thank you so much Wyatt66f100 ... that make a lot of sense to me. I ordered the new kit today as it was only $53.00 my cost and so I will install it and give it a crank.

And yes... I have spent some six months off and on in Oregon over the last 4 years and am engaged to the [ I think prettiest ] girl in all of Oregon. My son Eric and I are trying to move there this summer so he can start school there in the fall. IN final stages of paperwork process but still need to sell my home and property .We are planning in settling in the Grants Pass area or perhaps Rogue River. I sure like it there and have quickly grown fond of Oregon. Are you on the Eastern or Western part of Oregon ? I will be traveling from Portland to Bend and Redmond once we move to visit relatives.

Thanks for the help ... I cannot say what this would be like without it.

Les

 

the spring got stuck in the oil filter when the stand pipe melted. thats how it disappeared. best of luck on this one. hope I wrong.

 

hmmm... the old sneak the spring out inside the oil filter trick


and to think I completely fell for it

I sure hope that you are wrong too LOL



I still very much thank you for your input. I have been reading as much as I have time for so I can learn how these trucks are put together. Luckily I purchased a pair of these trucks and the 06 turned out to be an exellent truck and I quickly fell in love with it. It has just over 60,000 miles and is in perfect condition far as I know. So if this engine is toasted it won't be the end of the world as I already have more than my moneys worth just in the one truck. If this is so it will just take me a few days to get used to the disapointment of seeing such a low mileage truck come to such a sad demise. However I will still stick the new pipe in and see what happens.

So.... in order for that part to melt it would seem obvious that the engine oil got so hot that it toasted it. I am finding that so hard to comprehend especially since I remember reading that the oil goes through an oil cooler before entering the filter housing.

You have obviously seen this before... what in the world would they have to do to have such an occurance ? This boggles my mind.

Would getting stuck in some kind of mud bog be a possible scenerio for this to occur ?

 

I don't remember what the oil temperature is exactly for the standpipe to melt, but I know it's over 350*. Getting stuck in the mud and over revving the motor trying to get the truck out is the only thing that comes to mind. In other words they just didn't give a care. Hopefully the tranny fared better.

 

One of the most common issues w/ the 6.0L is the oil cooler plugging up on the coolant side (from casting sand that sloughs off over time AND poorly maintained coolant or the wrong coolant). Easy to get the oil hot when there is no coolant flow to the oil cooler. This also causes the EGR cooler to fail BTW (it is in series after the oil cooler from the coolant flow perspective).

 

Putting these two components in series is one of the most "head scratching" decisions I have come across.

What was on their minds?

Compact form factor?

Allow coolant to come to operating temperature faster?

I still don't understand the design principals involved.

 

The same design principle that made them put in an oil pressure gauge, that is activated off of a SWITCH? So that the gauge reads normal of the oil pressure is above 7.5 PSI and reads 0 of it's less than that.

Stupid stupid stupid stupid

 

The rationale that went into that one is a simple "on off" switch is far easier to handle.

Essentially a spring loaded electrical contact.

If you want a variable pressure sensor, then you are dealing with:

A) a real transducer ($$$)

B) some kind of a calibration scheme - can do factory cal once but that doesn't stay

That means a software recalibration routine.


So they opted for simple and off the shelf.

 

I don't want to do a . But jeeze, what'd it have cost them to do a real pressure gauge in there? A couple dollars? On a $50,000 (give or take) truck? I'd have paid $50,002 to get that option. Heck I'd have dug real deep and paid $50,010 to get that option and they'd have turned a nice profit.

 

Doesn't work that way.

You got an off the shelf sensor that is proven, from the catalog of standard parts.

Suppose they put in a real sensor.

Then you got a whole issue of new software that have to be done, validated, tested, and so on.

Then there is the issue of the dash gauge - how it is calibrated?

A lot of other issues, including the long term supply / provision of that part in the logistics system for 10 years or more.

What about sensor failure?

A mechanical gauge inherently have a certain risk - of failure pegging the gauge on "high" and giving a false reading.


So a $2 increase in costs at the sensor becomes easily a $50 increase in costs when all the items are added.

Then, given the normal 4X multiplier - you have $200 increase at retail.

Multiply it by 250,000 units a year, and you are into real money.


Question: does it result in a higher price that customers are willing to pay for?

 

Well I'm thinking your being too kind, I think Chevy and Dodge have real gauges and for a $50,000 truck the type of gauge Ford uses is unforgivable and downright cheap. I was told when I bought the truck they had gone to real gauges now that doesn't mean I wouldn't have bought it if I had known it was the same cheap switch. For crying out load the truck is a sophisticated computer controlled piece of equipment having a switch to indicate oil pressure is like having the old string turned tuners in the radio. Just one more indication of Ford taking a basic good truck and cheapening it with poor engineering and cheap gauges. I have spend $55.00 for a fuel pressure gauge and now it appears I should also buy an oil pressure gauge. I'm thinking they could have used real gauges far cheaper than that. Not rocket science todays electrical gauges are very dependable and not prone to calibration problems.
All that said I sure do love this truck !

 

Ford trucks had real oil pressure gauges for decades and they were accurate enough for most drivers and not prone to failure. They have real fuel level gauges, mostly real temperature and ATF temperature gauges, real volt gauges, etc. And those are all reasonably accurate and not prone to fail.

To say that they can't do what they have done in the past, and are still doing with other things today, is a bit silly.

But, I'm not going to hijack this gentleman's thread with a silly argument any longer.