Getting my A/C going
Thread Starter
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Modular motor junkie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,190
Likes: 8
From: Texas
Getting my A/C going
Well, now that its running I am fixing the smaller stuff.
A/C is next on my list, and it has two problems.
First is that the evaporator is bad. I have most of the stuff infront of it pulled, but it feels like something is holding it togather that I can't see.
Do I need to pull the fender liner, is it hiding bolts?
The other thing is doing the R12 to R134a swap. I have the fittings to do it, and all the proper tools to charge it. Is there any other step, or do I just put the R134a adapters on and then do it like it was that way from the factory?
Thanks guys.
A/C is next on my list, and it has two problems.
First is that the evaporator is bad. I have most of the stuff infront of it pulled, but it feels like something is holding it togather that I can't see.
Do I need to pull the fender liner, is it hiding bolts?The other thing is doing the R12 to R134a swap. I have the fittings to do it, and all the proper tools to charge it. Is there any other step, or do I just put the R134a adapters on and then do it like it was that way from the factory?
Thanks guys.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,109
Likes: 1,538
From: western SD
Can't help on the evaporator, but I have converted several systems to R134. I get the conversion kit from NAPA. It contains everything needed to do the system. It has one can of oil charge, and 2 cans of 134. Being the evaporater is bad and you are going to be opening the system, you will need to vaccume the system to remove the moisture.
Thread Starter
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Modular motor junkie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,190
Likes: 8
From: Texas
I have oil and a 30 lb can of R134a on hand, plus the manifold gauges and vacuum pump.
I spent $10.99 on the fittings, is there anything else in the kit that I don't have and need?
I spent $10.99 on the fittings, is there anything else in the kit that I don't have and need?
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 854
Likes: 0
From: woodville, tx
whatevertheheck you call the inline filter, that you have to use the quick disconect tools to get out, that is right next to the firewall... cant recall the name of it, but it comes in red or blue... need to change it out... also dont hurt to blow eack of th elines out with a compressor...
Thread Starter
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Modular motor junkie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,190
Likes: 8
From: Texas
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
The evaporator is held in place by the pastic cover (you probably know that though)
That plastic cover has several screws holding it in place and is sealed with a black goop.
However, there is one screw that isn't visible. Its underneath and accessible from the inside of the cab. 10MM if I remember right.
Thats how it is on my 1986 and yours should still be the same. Been a while since I did mine so I hope thats correct.
Once the plastic cover comes off, the evaporator comes off. Its not held in by anything else other than some goop.
That plastic cover has several screws holding it in place and is sealed with a black goop.
However, there is one screw that isn't visible. Its underneath and accessible from the inside of the cab. 10MM if I remember right.
Thats how it is on my 1986 and yours should still be the same. Been a while since I did mine so I hope thats correct.
Once the plastic cover comes off, the evaporator comes off. Its not held in by anything else other than some goop.
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Thread Starter
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Modular motor junkie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,190
Likes: 8
From: Texas
The evaporator is held in place by the pastic cover (you probably know that though)
That plastic cover has several screws holding it in place and is sealed with a black goop.
However, there is one screw that isn't visible. Its underneath and accessible from the inside of the cab. 10MM if I remember right.
Thats how it is on my 1986 and yours should still be the same. Been a while since I did mine so I hope thats correct.
Once the plastic cover comes off, the evaporator comes off. Its not held in by anything else other than some goop.
That plastic cover has several screws holding it in place and is sealed with a black goop.
However, there is one screw that isn't visible. Its underneath and accessible from the inside of the cab. 10MM if I remember right.
Thats how it is on my 1986 and yours should still be the same. Been a while since I did mine so I hope thats correct.
Once the plastic cover comes off, the evaporator comes off. Its not held in by anything else other than some goop.
Thread Starter
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Modular motor junkie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,190
Likes: 8
From: Texas
I have a 5 speed, so I don't have use for one.
With the E4OD and 4R100 you have to be careful, you can over cool them.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
Most any sealer will do but you don't want anything that is very perminant in case it has to be opened again. You can use some single sided closed cell foam tape if thats easier to find. That would also be more serviceable.
All you really have to seal here is against air. The air box is filled with positive pressure by the blower fan as opposed to vaccum so any leaks will not cause engine emissions to enter the cab. Air velocity at the vents will take a slight hit if the leaks are bad enough though.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 637
Likes: 0
good for you
no worries don't think you can overcool a C6