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2003 F-250 Cold Start Issue - video included

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2003 F-250 Cold Start Issue - video included

  #16  
Old 05-06-2010, 10:44 PM
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chris you need to look at the ops video if you do not have the exact same issue then you have a very differnt concern. You may have injector stiction, ficm or battery concerns.
if you have any different concern I would suggest providing year,modle and mods in your own thread. It will serve you best and you will get responces to you concern if its different then this. once the op varifies its not just a fluke that his truck will start on level gorund and not nose up Ill will provide more info on this. I just dont want to miss lead the op so if he follows what I say and so far he has I will resovle this when he post back friday. I will suggest both diag and repair for his concern so please check back.
also I would suggest if you think you have the same issue please test the theory by parking the truck nose high then next day level or nose down.
 
  #17  
Old 05-06-2010, 10:54 PM
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I know there's a bunch of us wondering what it is.
 
  #18  
Old 05-06-2010, 11:00 PM
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yes but not all of us. some of us think they think they know what to think.


ok so if you really have to know tonight or not and wait for the op to report back. as soon as he does I will spill it all.


also please feel free to toss your guesses out there and the the whys with them. lets make this fun.
 
  #19  
Old 05-06-2010, 11:36 PM
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This is a fun one..

I have no idea what it is..

<--- Me
 
  #20  
Old 05-07-2010, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by cheezit View Post
chris you need to look at the ops video if you do not have the exact same issue then you have a very differnt concern. You may have injector stiction, ficm or battery concerns.
if you have any different concern I would suggest providing year,modle and mods in your own thread. It will serve you best and you will get responces to you concern if its different then this. once the op varifies its not just a fluke that his truck will start on level gorund and not nose up Ill will provide more info on this. I just dont want to miss lead the op so if he follows what I say and so far he has I will resovle this when he post back friday. I will suggest both diag and repair for his concern so please check back.
also I would suggest if you think you have the same issue please test the theory by parking the truck nose high then next day level or nose down.
Well sir.... after parking the truck nose high over night, it once again struggled to start in the morning, just like in the video I posted.

Flat ground cold start = no problem
Nose high cold start = problem starting

You have my complete attention :-)
 
  #21  
Old 05-07-2010, 02:22 PM
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first I want to thank the op for providing great info, and a great thread.
What can be learned here is if you have a unique issue like this fiming it is a great help. Now common and ask how many of you that read the thread caught the fact the truck was parked nose high and it may have something do with his concern?
Next let me add when you drop your truck off make sure the repair order has your concern on it, WHAT YOU SAID... not the advisers thoughts on what you said. If you have info that will help a tech fix your truck right the first time then ask to speak witht the tech... most of us well gladly talk to you for a few min.

so back to the concern:
do you plan on doing the work yourself?
heres the diag, and the why.
1) by changing the angle that you park we can rule out things like batteries, ficm, biased sensors (icp,ebp. etc...) as they have nothing to do with nor do they care what way you are parked.
2) I know its not fuel because it does not fail to start, it does not blow white smoke and it does not fuel knock.
3) now that leaves oil. So we know the truck will start and run all day once its running and once its running it runs fine with no miss.so low side oil pressure is most likly good.
4) high side oil is were the concern must be, The low side can not fill the high pressure resivior fast enugh once the engine starts so it will die once the pump runs out of oil in the sump. the oil rails leading to the injetors do not run long enugh to drain them out so you dont have a rough running concern from traping lots of air.

so the awnser to the whats wrong with my truck?
you have either a crack in the block under the oil cooler (never seen or heard of it happining)
a failed o-ring at the pump side feed circuit (o-ring from pump to block)
or a failed high pressure pump allowing fluid to leak past it while its not running.

to diag the above is easy, remove the oil cooler and the hpp cover. from there you will clean the hpp resivor out with a lint free rag and fill the sump with diesl fuel (flows much better then oil) and see if you can find the leak. if not take a time measure ment of how fast it will drain then remove the pump and plug the pump feed port with a rubber plug. once the port is pluged refill the sump and see if it still leaks out. if the leak is gone then you have a failed pump. also to test the o-ring is visual, if its ripped its bad if its undamaged its good. My money goes to the failed hpp.
 
  #22  
Old 05-07-2010, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by cheezit View Post
first I want to thank the op for providing great info, and a great thread.
What can be learned here is if you have a unique issue like this fiming it is a great help. Now common and ask how many of you that read the thread caught the fact the truck was parked nose high and it may have something do with his concern?
Next let me add when you drop your truck off make sure the repair order has your concern on it, WHAT YOU SAID... not the advisers thoughts on what you said. If you have info that will help a tech fix your truck right the first time then ask to speak witht the tech... most of us well gladly talk to you for a few min.

so back to the concern:
do you plan on doing the work yourself?
heres the diag, and the why.
1) by changing the angle that you park we can rule out things like batteries, ficm, biased sensors (icp,ebp. etc...) as they have nothing to do with nor do they care what way you are parked.
2) I know its not fuel because it does not fail to start, it does not blow white smoke and it does not fuel knock.
3) now that leaves oil. So we know the truck will start and run all day once its running and once its running it runs fine with no miss.so low side oil pressure is most likly good.
4) high side oil is were the concern must be, The low side can not fell the high pressure resivior fast enugh once the engine starts so it will die once the pump runs out of oil in the sump. the oil rails leading to the injetors do run long enugh to drain them out so you dont have a rough running concern from traping lots of air.

so the awnser to the whats wrong with my truck?
you have either a crack in the block under the oil cooler (never seen or heard of it happining)
a failed o-ring at the pump side feed circuit (o-ring from pump to block)
or a failed high pressure pump allowing fluid to leak past it while its not running.

to diag the above is easy, remove the oil cooler and the hpp cover. from there you will clean the hpp resivor out with a lint free rag and fill the sump with diesl fuel (flows much better then oil) and see if you can find the leak. if not take a time measure ment of how fast it will drain then remove the pump and plug the pump feed port with a rubber plug. once the port is pluged refill the sump and see if it still leaks out. if the leak is gone then you have a failed pump. also to test the o-ring is visual, if its ripped its bad if its undamaged its good. My money goes to the failed hpp.
You are the Man Sir!

Thank you!

Will keep you posted :-)

FYI - I will be taking this to the dealership ;-)
 
  #23  
Old 05-07-2010, 02:36 PM
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if your turck is under warranty. show them the video and see how long it takes them to figure it out. Most techs and dealers find little info on message boards. if they cant fix or figure it out or find it then help them out. If its out of pocket then share what you know right off.
 
  #24  
Old 05-07-2010, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by cheezit View Post
if your turck is under warranty. show them the video and see how long it takes them to figure it out. Most techs and dealers find little info on message boards. if they cant fix or figure it out or find it then help them out. If its out of pocket then share what you know right off.
It's not under warranty.... gonna be out of pocket :-(
 
  #25  
Old 05-07-2010, 03:29 PM
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Any guess on what this may run me at the dealership?
Is there a ton of labor?

If it is the block.... then what?
 
  #26  
Old 05-07-2010, 03:47 PM
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then its a short block. do really have any fear of that though. also odd are that if the block was craked it would make little differance what angle the truck was parked as well but its still possible.

to replace a pump on an early 6.0 the intake has to come off. that is about 14 hours labor + the price of the pump. Also sence you are basicly there you may wanna spend a little bit more and have the oil cooler rebuild. that should run around another 550.00 on top of the total bill.

do some looking around these guys http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=918 did good with there 7.3 pump. I dont know of anyone running the 6.0 version.

also has anyone tried to figure out the issue before?
 
  #27  
Old 05-08-2010, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by cheezit View Post
then its a short block. do really have any fear of that though. also odd are that if the block was craked it would make little differance what angle the truck was parked as well but its still possible.

to replace a pump on an early 6.0 the intake has to come off. that is about 14 hours labor + the price of the pump. Also sence you are basicly there you may wanna spend a little bit more and have the oil cooler rebuild. that should run around another 550.00 on top of the total bill.

do some looking around these guys http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=918 did good with there 7.3 pump. I dont know of anyone running the 6.0 version.

also has anyone tried to figure out the issue before?
I've had two shops looking at it.... neither were able to correct the issue (neither suspected anything to do with the HPOP either).

I just had the oil cooler replaced in January when the Head Studs and EGR were done.

Any other items I may want to take a look at while she's opened up?

And thanks again! You are the man!
 
  #28  
Old 05-08-2010, 09:02 PM
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not that I can think of.
 
  #29  
Old 05-08-2010, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by cheezit View Post
first I want to thank the op for providing great info, and a great thread.
What can be learned here is if you have a unique issue like this fiming it is a great help. Now common and ask how many of you that read the thread caught the fact the truck was parked nose high and it may have something do with his concern?
Next let me add when you drop your truck off make sure the repair order has your concern on it, WHAT YOU SAID... not the advisers thoughts on what you said. If you have info that will help a tech fix your truck right the first time then ask to speak witht the tech... most of us well gladly talk to you for a few min.

so back to the concern:
do you plan on doing the work yourself?
heres the diag, and the why.
1) by changing the angle that you park we can rule out things like batteries, ficm, biased sensors (icp,ebp. etc...) as they have nothing to do with nor do they care what way you are parked.
2) I know its not fuel because it does not fail to start, it does not blow white smoke and it does not fuel knock.
3) now that leaves oil. So we know the truck will start and run all day once its running and once its running it runs fine with no miss.so low side oil pressure is most likly good.
4) high side oil is were the concern must be, The low side can not fill the high pressure resivior fast enugh once the engine starts so it will die once the pump runs out of oil in the sump. the oil rails leading to the injetors do not run long enugh to drain them out so you dont have a rough running concern from traping lots of air.

so the awnser to the whats wrong with my truck?
you have either a crack in the block under the oil cooler (never seen or heard of it happining)
a failed o-ring at the pump side feed circuit (o-ring from pump to block)
or a failed high pressure pump allowing fluid to leak past it while its not running.

to diag the above is easy, remove the oil cooler and the hpp cover. from there you will clean the hpp resivor out with a lint free rag and fill the sump with diesl fuel (flows much better then oil) and see if you can find the leak. if not take a time measure ment of how fast it will drain then remove the pump and plug the pump feed port with a rubber plug. once the port is pluged refill the sump and see if it still leaks out. if the leak is gone then you have a failed pump. also to test the o-ring is visual, if its ripped its bad if its undamaged its good. My money goes to the failed hpp.
Man, I was not following this thread since I am using a computer without sound (couldn't get much from the OP's video that way).

Great post Cecil and fantastic diagnostics cheezit!!! It is a pleasure to learn new things! I will rep you as soon as I can ........
 
  #30  
Old 05-16-2010, 12:21 AM
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so a week has past any updates?
 

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