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Lock Actuator Fix WITH Pictures!

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  #76  
Old 12-25-2010, 11:18 AM
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This thread seems priceless, Ill let you know when I get to it! Thanks for all of the help!
 
  #77  
Old 01-21-2011, 10:27 AM
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^^^ hes rite. priceless. if i had done this sooner i wouldnt have been taking my back window out when my daughter locked my keys in my truck. this was alot easier than i thought it would be.

i cut up 2 pennies for mine. this was the cheapest repair i have ever done
 

Last edited by bcaughhorn; 01-21-2011 at 10:32 AM. Reason: forgot something.
  #78  
Old 01-27-2011, 05:11 PM
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I got the actuator out, did the fix but can't figure out the installation again. I already broke one actuator. So detailed explanation would be greatly appreciated! Also does the actuator have to be fully installed to work, or should it work once the plug is reconnected? Thanks for the help!
 
  #79  
Old 01-27-2011, 05:28 PM
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Once the electrical connections are made following the repair, the actuator should function - if all has gone well.
 
  #80  
Old 01-28-2011, 01:35 AM
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Great write-up and pics Jon. I did this back in November when I was just a troll on FTE. Glad to see someone brought it back so I could see who to rep for it! I probably should have read the whole post at that time and I wouldn't have taken all 4 lock assemblies out when I did it! On that note, reps to you Rubberduck!
 
  #81  
Old 01-28-2011, 08:11 AM
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Actually, I got my info from here and then just expanded it and turned it into a writeup that I thought would show people all they needed to know... basically, I just did my best to keep folks from guessing. I also got some info from here so, the credits go to them, really... glad it worked for y'all!
 
  #82  
Old 01-28-2011, 08:24 AM
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I understand what you're saying but still gotta give you credit. Write-up, pics, made the job super easy. Just wasn't a member then and didn't even think about it till I saw it on here again and realized it was the one I had used to fix mine. I appreciate all the folks on here, but you get the cookie for this one!
 
  #83  
Old 01-28-2011, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by SLUF681
I understand what you're saying but still gotta give you credit. Write-up, pics, made the job super easy. Just wasn't a member then and didn't even think about it till I saw it on here again and realized it was the one I had used to fix mine. I appreciate all the folks on here, but you get the cookie for this one!
Thank you, sir!
 
  #84  
Old 01-28-2011, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by SLUF681
Great write-up and pics Jon. I did this back in November when I was just a troll on FTE. Glad to see someone brought it back so I could see who to rep for it! I probably should have read the whole post at that time and I wouldn't have taken all 4 lock assemblies out when I did it! On that note, reps to you Rubberduck!

Glad I could could help.
 
  #85  
Old 01-28-2011, 11:23 PM
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Good write-up Jon, the pics always help a how to. This is my cherry buster mod. This is the first mod I ever did to my truck with info off FTE, don't even know what thread I was looking at. Think my second FTE mod, performed the same day as the first, was the door chime delete. I don't like my vehicles yelling at me.

Hey RubberDuck, think I saw you on 2222 today. White OBS dually, some stickers, Death Row Diesel cut out of chrome on the mud flaps, little belch of smoke every time you touched the pedal?
 
  #86  
Old 01-29-2011, 08:11 PM
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Yeah I was out that way for my welding job. I have to try my best to keep the smoke to "small belches" when I'm out that direction. But yep, that's me.
 
  #87  
Old 01-29-2011, 09:34 PM
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Thought it might be you, good looking rig.
 
  #88  
Old 01-30-2011, 04:41 AM
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Thank you sir.
 
  #89  
Old 02-01-2011, 07:31 AM
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What kind of metal did u use for the plate that replaced the resistor
 
  #90  
Old 02-01-2011, 07:56 AM
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I think it was plain ol' steel... I actually made them outta those plates that you nail to your framing over the spots in the framing where the plumbing ruins through to keep your drywall nails/screws from punching holes through the plumbing. Works REALLY good! If I could do it again, though, I'd do what I did with a buddy's actuator. There are two contacts in there that spread apart when you put the "dummy load" in there... you can pull those contacts out and bend them in so that when you put them back into the motor, it shorts out and you don't need the dummy load after all.
 


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