Show Me Your Racks (Stake Bed Racks That Is)
#32
I got a prompt response back from the owner of this 52 F3 and supposedly the engine and trans was rebuilt 5 years ago and it's not driven daily so miles are low. Very little rust, new wiring, Mallory dual point distributor, etc. I asked if I purchased it if it would make it home to my house over an hour away and they said yes. I may take a look at it for the hell of it. I would not drive it on the freeway much, mostly around town on back roads but pulling power has me worried. I would have to look at it and drive it to decide any further. I'd love to have it or something similar for sure!
#33
#37
It is the factory Meadow Green.
Here are some more pictures. I need to add the pictures with my new racks.
BonusBuilt
Jim...
Here are some more pictures. I need to add the pictures with my new racks.
BonusBuilt
Jim...
#39
ford48f3, glad to see you painted the racks basic black like Henry did. Love those hinges too. Here's one I sold last year. It was from Nevada and I think the black paint on the stakes was original. As you can see the bed and stakes didn't change much over the years.Looking at a book like 'Ford Trucks Since 1905' clearly shows you got the finish right.
#40
#41
Surprised harleymsn doesn't have his in here yet... Really surprised this thread didn't come up in my search (started rebuilding my racks this fall and searched a ton).
So here is my contribution, a 1948 F1 with an aftermarket (non-ford script) rear member on a F2 bed (7 1/2' instead of the original 6 1/2', steel uprights instead of wood).
I am currently rebuilding all the racks (all wood like the F1 came stock, and all new hardware), and searching for a semi straight rear member (PO gave me the original - it is beat up real bad).
Note there is a "left handed" pair and a "right handed" pair - if you mix pairs they don't work:
PO also gave me some of the F1 sides - there is an interesting difference in the hardware even...
From top to bottom
Brass sex bolts bought at fastenal for new slightly thicker sides
F2 hardware (1/2 carriage bolt, 1/2 sex bolt - no slot on carriage)
F1 hardware (pan head flat slot w/ washer and square nut)
I only have 1 (mostly complete) example of each - so if others have multiple examples and can corroborate or refute.
So here is my contribution, a 1948 F1 with an aftermarket (non-ford script) rear member on a F2 bed (7 1/2' instead of the original 6 1/2', steel uprights instead of wood).
I am currently rebuilding all the racks (all wood like the F1 came stock, and all new hardware), and searching for a semi straight rear member (PO gave me the original - it is beat up real bad).
Note there is a "left handed" pair and a "right handed" pair - if you mix pairs they don't work:
PO also gave me some of the F1 sides - there is an interesting difference in the hardware even...
From top to bottom
Brass sex bolts bought at fastenal for new slightly thicker sides
F2 hardware (1/2 carriage bolt, 1/2 sex bolt - no slot on carriage)
F1 hardware (pan head flat slot w/ washer and square nut)
I only have 1 (mostly complete) example of each - so if others have multiple examples and can corroborate or refute.
#42
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains
Posts: 1,423
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[quote=48fordcoe;8831357]heres my. The best thing about a stake truck bed is that you can use them.. once you have a stake bed you will never want a pick up bed[/quote
I'm the wrong year for this forum but totally agree with the above statement!!! As proof.... 10 x 12ft shed move. Some "FINE" Trucks showing in here!
I'm the wrong year for this forum but totally agree with the above statement!!! As proof.... 10 x 12ft shed move. Some "FINE" Trucks showing in here!
#44
Update
When my old thread got resurrected I realized I never posted the final finished product.
I settled for a dark green stain, I tried a sample with black stain and didn't like the results.
I got the stain custom mixed at Lowes. The wood I used had enough yellow in it I had to have them keep adding blue to get the color I wanted. Once I paid for custom mixing they didn't have any limit on playing with the color, warning me about changes that I might not like (no do overs from base with out a new charge).
I settled for a dark green stain, I tried a sample with black stain and didn't like the results.
I got the stain custom mixed at Lowes. The wood I used had enough yellow in it I had to have them keep adding blue to get the color I wanted. Once I paid for custom mixing they didn't have any limit on playing with the color, warning me about changes that I might not like (no do overs from base with out a new charge).
#45