Got two broken off manifold studs currently. Figure I will go with a new header when I do the job so..I have linked a couple questions here and with so more question I will decide which and where to buy. Kind of want to stay away from ceramic after reading other posts of it not holding up. Also wanted to include the Y pipe as my stock set up is a narrow T.

Anyone have an update on the Doug Thorley headers?
link Doug Thorley Headers 218Y - Doug Thorley Tri-Y Headers - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Some say they are not being built, or a limit set once enough orders are paid for.?.?

or

Anyone try the Hedman ones?

link Hedman Hedders 89666 - Hedman Street Hedders - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Although thinner walled they are available now and fit my bill. Just like to know someone tried them.

Thanks for any help.

 

I just went through this same process on my 5.4L. I went with the JBA non-coated SS headers and y-pipe. Made a noticeable difference for sure.

I think these would be the same headers, only for your V10
JBA Headers 1669S-1 - JBA Headers Cat4ward Headers - Overview - SummitRacing.com


For anyone interested, here's some info on how my upgrades went
2004 F250 Broken Exhuast Manifold Stud

 

Which y pipe did you use? I saw those but the other two I listed come with the Y pipe. I have heard of the company and like the thicker walls than the Hedman is offering but the included Y pipe caught my eye.

Thank you

 

I bought mine from SPD Performance. They're the ones that sell on ebay too, if you've read posts about the "ebay y-pipe". It does require cutting your original and welding it in. I agree, the included y-pipe would be a very desirable setup.

Here's a link to the page that shows the three they have available for your truck.

6.8L V10 : SPD Performance

 

Nice picture. Thanks for link. Still thinking one of the two originals I posted with the Hedman winning so far. No welding needed. And for $600 all included.

Did you pay prices similair to the web site you posted or find them cheaper? Looking at $600+ for your header and another $100+ for y pipe and weld for your route, but could be stronger with thicker walls. Still could be the best route.

What model Y pipe is yours? Advantage to any of them, aluminized, steel or SS?

I do not want to touch my frame to get a pipe to fit. No way no how. I will keep stock manifold first.

 

I used the bing 10% cashback on ebay to get my headers. Still bought them from Summit because they sell on ebay. So, they were about $60 under the summit price.

I bought the mid-priced Stainless one. Winter roads are bad around here for salt and exaust systems suffer from that so I didn't want to chance it with the aluminized one.

I assume this comment refers to how I had to grind the motor mount slightly to get the header to fit on the pass side? According to JBA that happens in roughly 1 out of 20 sets (lucky me) and they offered to exchange it for me. Since I didn't feel it would hurt to grind it a little at that spot, and since I wanted to get it finished ASAP, I went that route. To each their own I guess.

 

I did not know you personally had to grind yours. I read some other threads this weekend and people reffered to the "Ebay pipe" and grinding. I think it was a $150 or so for the header they reffered to.

We also have bad winters and salt. Plenty of rust. Midpriced one would be my choise too.

Thanks again.

 

If you have bad winters with lots of salt you will want the Banks headers.(409 stainless) The Doug Thorley headers are great headers (I have them on my truck) but they are constructed of steel which is not the best for harsh winter conditions. The Banks and the Thorleys are long tube headers which is what you want. The only headers I would install on a V10 is long tube headers. The Banks headers come with a replacement y-pipe, a set isn't cheap but you get what you pay for.

 

Oh ok... I showed that in my write up so I thought that's what you were referring to.

Grinding on mine was required because of the pass side header. I didn't have any grinding because of the y-pipe. Except for cutting the old one apart.

Good luck!

 

Well I ordered the Hedman. Start on it tomarrow. Going to do some myself and pay shop for some lift/advise time. Got a shop in area which is good with me like that. He has done them before and said dont start in driveway and dont think you will be done in a day. He will treat me fair for any labor I cant do plus he got the tools, lift and roof.

 

Please check back after you have the Hedmanns installed. If you can post some pics that would be great. A couple guys got the Hedmans and never reposted on the progress. Curious how they fit and overall quality.

 

I did not get any pictures. Had two studss broken but when we started working I ended up with 9 broke, 6 came off with the nuts and 5 broke inside the head. Hardest part was getting manifold off. Guy had experience with these and every tool you could buy from Snap on so it went ok. 12 hours yesterday, 5 today. New Hedman Headers fit perfect. Only problem was getting the one O2 sensor hooked back up but even that was not a big deal. Had to pull out the plastic tie down which held it up out of the way on the right side, then it was long enough. O2 ports are down in the collector so it was too short with the clip.

Other observation was I was leaking exhaust out of two cylinders on one side and one on the other. Truck is quieter now when idling, still stock cat back. But does have a jazillion more horse power. I really dont know but it feels better, probably because its done. No noise except a little rumble when full throttle. I can say they did a little something for performance.

The headers came with bolts but we did not use them. Bought the locking ones which was a PITA to put on. Those little clips fell so many times it was a joke. "Hey you drop another one?"

Other than the clips, super looking, great fit, easy to install. No noise. Good gaskets. Mechanic said they were some of the best fitting pipes he ever put on anything.

 

Also no frame grinding.

 

Well, that's good! Hope they hold up ok for you.

Thanks for the update!

 

i am doing a header conversion as well right now. i had a total of 10 broken studs befor and thats the reason for the headers. i am having a hell of a time getting the studs and ive tried every trick i could find in the search function. dam this is a sucky job. how do you guys get to the bolts by the motor mounts?