"can you tell where the dome light hole needs to be by measuring up from the window trim ??"

John,

Horizontally yes but vertical would be a guess on how far it tucks behind the rear window rubber. I may have to break down and test fit the center section. Dremel tool is good. I ruled out a jigsaw because I believe it will bind and explode the ABS.

A surface mount dome would far easier. I need to go find my domelight and meditate on it some. I would hate to delete the dome and ruin my bone stock Effie resto I got going on.

 

guess you missed my question before... gonna use an overhead console ??? might incorporate a dome lite there... some nice ones in late model ford and gm's that will work nicely... I'm looking to do that also

and I think the V-clip and the gray tweed kinda shoot down the bone stock thingy

I can hear George moaning now... or maybe thats the taps cutting the rust out of those bolt holes

I think I like the idea of surface mount lite... you can get one out of a late model explorer or something with two bulbs and two switches... so Ms. fenders can read while you tool along woefully underpowered...

later j

 

'fenders... butyl styrene is low temp stuff... dremel and cutoff is gonna generate some heat and build up a 'lip' on both sides of the cut... a fine toothed coping saw is safe and clean cutting. If you want to use the high hp dremel... cut from the back side. himmelberg

 

The headliner panel does not fit flush to the dome light mount and you will not be able to use it. Just cut new holes and mount it where you want.

 

Not wanting to be impose but when working with the headliners on autos and aircraft I usually use the 3M product 8090 spray adhesive and put at least two layer down for best coverage. It is a hight temp adhesive and works well when used on Vinyls or foam backed headliner stock materials. Must remeber not to compress the foam headliner fabric while glue is still tacky; drag hand across to apply to surfaces and allow to dry. The foamed backed headliner fabrics have good stretch and cornform well as long as there isn't too much positive to negative relief in the headliner. You can get the fabric at any trim shop and you may find it cheaper to buy a five yard cut than to buy a yard and a half.

 

In reading the thread on the types of glues I can say that the 3M product called 77 Is the same as the original 3M 8080 and had an adjustable spray nozzle. I learned the hard way NOT to use that glue on headliners. I haven't come accross the the 80 variety in the automotive line so can't say much about it. Would have concern if you said it had a misting characteristic to it. The glue will let go if it is what you are discribing. Word ofadvice here is that if you are using any of these glues use good ventilation. You may wind up flying without a liscence. Could give you a good head ache as well.

 

Gear Up

Gear Up

You do interior work for a living. Please trust me that means you are not imposing. I would be most appreciative if you help us in any way you can as we proceed. The glue I have been using on door panels is 3M 051135-08088 but we aren't doing door panels now. I will buy the adhesive you recommend today without further discussion.

Scott, Himmelberg

I was not aware the liner did not go flush against the domelight mount. Thanks for preventing me from wrecking my headliner tonight.

John

I will post the particulars on my fabric tonight. It is a cloth but not tweed type. Came from an interior wholesale warehouse in Des Moines, IA. I bet Gear Up could recite the business name. Consoles, Explorer parts and other such modern gear will be used only when absolutely necessary. I want the modern conveniences but am trying to avoid the "Billet Boy" street rod look as much as I can. I'm sure you are scratching your head right now but it is not the look I desire. It is discussion for another day.

Thanks to everyone who is helping me out.

 

'fenders,
I, among all the others, am very interested in your project. Keep us posted and I am sure Ken can use your "how to" article when you are done.

I would, however, request that you leave your computer off during the application of the spray adhesive. After seeing the creative juices flow through some of the past threads, I'm not sure I want to wittness the "solvent induced" ditty that may result.

 

Hey J, It looks like fenders is not going to use a console on the ceiling panel. (No reply and no mention of it) I was waiting for that answer also. I have bought the console piece and will be installing it when I get a little further along. The Rod Doors rep explained that to mount the stereo I plan on putting up there, it is necessary to glue a piece of wood stock (1"x4") on the roof itself to support the weight of the unit. Also, I agree with fenders on the ABS scratching that pretty red paint. Rod Doors suggested test fitting the pieces and installing the gonzo-strong velcro pieces before the truck is painted. Also, while the truck is at the paintshop, the velcro should have masking tape over it to protect it from paint. Then, while the truck is gone, you can use your spare time to cover all the pieces and have them ready for installation when the truck comes home. Fenders, I like that color red. Would you care to share what the name/brand is???? Thanks, John T

 

John

I did answer John in a post above, no consoles for me. Too modern of a look. I'll put my CD player somewhere out of sight and inconvenient.

I have a Ford paint code that is real close but it is basically a computer match to IH or Farmall red. Going off topic here a moment but everyone always wonders why a tractor color? My father passed away in the middle of my F100 project right before he could paint it so I nervously painted it myself. He painted for IH for almost 30 years . My color selection is sort of a tribute to him. It was going to be bright yellow. I'll get a code for you.

 

Bought my adhesive that Gear Up recommended today. It is 3M PN is 051135-08090. Referred to as eighty-ninety. It is not the same product as 3M 90. I believe it was $12.00 for one can. The 90 is dry in 15 minutes. The 08090 gives you up to 60 minutes tack time which gives you far more flexibility to reposition the fabric. Both are for high temp applications. Easy choice at under a dollar difference in price.

I will get PICs of the fabric application process as I proceed.

 

We have a small problem. We may have to change the adhesive guidance to "a high temp product appropriate for the fabric being used". As I believe Gear Up pointed out, 8090 goes on more liquid and does not lace like 8088 does. My fabric is a very soft velour like cloth. I was unable to spray the heavier 8090 on the fabric without soak through. The 8088 label reads for lighter materials which is what I have.

We'll resolve this before the tech article but I believe I will have to do mine with 8088 like I used for my door panels. Glad I tried the 8090 first on a small side panel.

 

fenders,

sounds like everything is moving along nicely... I'm also glad you checked on the adhesive first... could have made a nice mess..


Gear up...

read your post on imposing... there IS NO imposing on this board and an expert, near expert, someone who knows an expert, someone who can spell expert is more than welcome to add or even subtract from our posts... we openly welcome your comments, expertise and guidance in this project.. It's something that all of us will have to face ( except George... he's tracking down the original upholstery maker and having him brought over from the nursing home to do his). Any suggestions and direction you can offer us will be great... Fenders will incorporate that knowledge into the article and make it better for everyone to use...

We're like sponges... we'll soak up all you got !!! Thanks in advance for the help...

later

John.... waiting for more good info...

 

Have been reading the threads on the types of adhesives to use on the headliner install and I wish to share an exreience I had with the 8080 glue that has now evolved to the 8088. When I first started in the auto end of the industry I did a headline to a Dodge van and I used the 8080 adhesive because it was suppose to be use for fabrication puposes with foam. The temperatures induces from sitting in the sun cause the entire headliner to sag and I had to redo the entire project trying a different technique and that too failed. I ultimately had to make button and button the entire headliner in place. Over the years the venders that supply the ingredient for the spray adhesive have changed and the federal guidelines have caused 3M to change the formula two or three times. The present product has a smell similar to silicone and to be quite honest it does not bond as well as it used to. It is my opinion that you do NOT use it on the headliner install. I mentioned the 3M product 8090 and would definitely say that is the way to go. Once the solvents evaporate away it creates a good bond. make sure that when you apply it that you spray at a shollow angle to the surface you are working with and on the second coat you spray a pattern ninety degrees to the first for a more even application. Sorry for the length here but if you haven't worked with it a few tips can't hurt. One other thing, when you are at the store, take the cove off the can and spray a little into the cover to make sure it sprays. I've gotten a few cans that just got plugged up sitting on the shelf.
Good luck.
I don't consider myself an expert but I do enjoy what I do for a living and don't mind sharing what I've learned.

 

After further reading the problems fenders is having I believe that you were spraying the adhesive at too steep an angle and probably moving at too slow a rate of speed. I have learned that if you put on lighter coats and sometimes two or three coats is best. As far as tack time is conserned you should have more than a minute to work with it. I use this glue all the time when I wrap window trims on the aircraft and I have a least a five minue window. If you rush it you won't get a bood bond either. I'm sorry to say it but experience is the only way you will get it right. Take a piece of scrap and experiment with it first.
Again, good luck.