So after a few days of driving with the headers wrapped up, I think it's running better. It's probably just in my head - but I'm ok with that!

I feel like the trans shifts better too.

 

To show some solidarity with Grec-O-Face on his rusted out shocks here is one of mine. This is the good side, the inboard is easily 4 times worse. I'll post some pics up of them all when I change them out in a month or so.

 

My Rancho 9000x's are FUNKY rusty - bad enough I'm waiting for them to rot through.

A few years ago, we had a run of really icy weather for about 2 months and they ran out of potassium or calcium chloride and started using what seemed to be sodium chloride - regular table salt. Everything went to hell in a handbasket pretty quick that winter

 

Was at Lowes and decided to look for the Stainless Steel (SS) wire ties, no luck at Lowes. I'll try Home Depot. I'm planning to wrap the headers before I install them. Any words of wisdom to make the job easier?

 

Make sure you leave enough room to get a wrench onto the flange bolts. I noticed after I wrapped that some of the bolts were VERY difficult to reach with a wrench (nevermind a socket).

 

What did you do about your crossover pipe?

 

I’m installing E-Bay headers on my V10 while it’s out of the truck. I would like to trim the passenger frame rail but won’t have an idea of where and amount until the engine is set into place. Is there anyway you could provide some detailed measurements e.g. length and width that needs trimmed? It looks like you began cutting just to the rear of a rivet on the cross member.

 

You mean the Y-pipe? I only wrapped the headers, stopping before the flanges. I didn't want to wrap anything that wasn't stainless.

I'll take a look and see if there's a way I can get an accurate measurement. I wish you'd asked last week before I wrapped the headers. I had the wheel liners out to do it, would've been a piece of cake to measure then...

 

Wow...what a great thread!
I discovered the reason for my exhaust leak while I attempted to install the SPD y-pipe kit on my 2000 Ex. It has 100,000+ miles, but has been leaking for some time.
I installed the Dynomax muffler, new tailpipe and SS tip (all custom) a few weeks ago. I was hoping the SPD kit would be neat...and easy.....wrong.

Stupid me, i bought new ford studs two days ago to the entire job for $165. You can BET they're all going back!!

THANKS for the reassurance that the less expensive headers do work- I just spend a grand rebuilding the front end (BJ's, hub bearings, 4wd kits, etc) so another $600 hurts!!
I will order the headers and wrap them on the bench. Now, here is a suggestion for bolts: metric small-head S/S bolts will certainly help. I have purchased from these folks and like them :Totally Stainless. Full size bolts and headers o together like oil and water.
By the time this is all done, it'll cost just under $300.

 

If I have the EGR, is it possible to mount it on the new stainless headers and if so...where would be the best location? Also, did ya'll wrap the headers for heat issues or simply the noise. Thanks, love the info and all the wonderful pics.

 

Not really sure about the EGR location - but I bet you'd have to weld a bung into the header to accept the EGR tube.

You may want to avoid wrapping the headers ---- I think my wrap might be a partial cause of pre-mature failure of the header. I think one (driver's side) may have cracked below the wrap do to extreme heat.

 

Very cool thread

 

You have to weld on an EGR bung. Most header manufacturers however offer their headers in both EGR and NON EGR versions. I would think the best place to put the EGR fitting is as close to stock location as possible.

 

Curious if there are any problems with the starter getting to hot due to the headers. Mine will be going on next week (finally) and would like to take care of any problems in that area should there be.

 

Wow, I'm so far behind everyone here.