how much power can Dana 60 axle handle?
#31
#32
i can't find the post to quote it, but my saying is traction+power=ka-boom. i'm assuming you were mudbogging w/900hp and cut boggers. i run mud, snow and occasionally some rough trails. rocks are for mechanics, cause those guys obviously like to fix broken axles more than driving their rig. i've seen 44's take abuse and last, but it's normally under low traction, like mud and possibly sand depending on how much you jump em.
#33
Mud drags and I had enough traction to pull the front tires off the ground and carry them for 100+ft on some tracks.
BUT it was straight line stuff (turning is what normally busts axles) and it was on a lightened vehicle (total weight was about 3400lbs even with a 10pt cage, a big block and larger tires)
BUT it was straight line stuff (turning is what normally busts axles) and it was on a lightened vehicle (total weight was about 3400lbs even with a 10pt cage, a big block and larger tires)
#34
#36
In an attempt to get this back on topic.....
Allan,
The Dana 60 front is a great axle. However, you need to take into consideration that it was originally used in trucks with 32 inch tires and 150-200 hp engines. As trucks have gotten heavier and more powerful, the axle has evolved. The biggest and baddest 60 is the "Super 60"....found in the 2005+ F-450/550 trucks. It's about the same strength as the 70HD front axle in the GM 4500/5500 trucks. Both of these axles DWARF the 78-79 king pin 60, and even the early Dana 70 front axles. If money was no object....forget the Rockwells, THIS is what you want.
Personally, I wouldn't run anything bigger than 40's on a 79 style 60 - Even with chromoly shafts. But that's just my opinion. Reliability is my main concern, and I wanna know that I can always drive the truck home after I'm through playing. But, since you've made it this far on a Dana 44....a 60 should probably hold up fine for you. I actually kept my mouth shut in the beginning because I assumed your truck was a trailer queen(no offense). And I actually have to agree with Fat Dan about your driving style. Maybe I'm wrong?? But, this thread has been steered so far off topic by one inexperienced individual.....that I'll voice my opinion.
That being said, here are some things to keep in mind:
The stock shafts suck! They neck down to nearly Dana 44 diameter. The stub shafts are only 30 spline. The replacement Spicer shafts don't taper as much. If you have a Chevy or Dodge axle, all you have to do is get replacement Spicer shafts and 35 spline outers. This is a great low-buck upgrade. However, Spicer does not make any 35 spline stub shafts for Ford applications. Because of this, you might as well just step up to chromoly shafts.
As for the rear axle....there is a reason why everyone who actually has experience with 4x4 trucks (including a Moderator), says NOT to use a Dana 60 rear axle. IF you just MUST have a 60, AND you can find one from a late model E-350 van for cheap, OK. These are the ONLY ones will take 35 spline shafts(that I can personally verify)....and are the ONLY ones that are worth your time. But as I said in an earlier post, these axles are essentially Dana 70's with a Dana 60 differential.
Another axle that won't work is a pre 80 Dana 70. I don't wanna step on someone's toes....but you won't find a truck with a Dana 60 front and usable Dana 70 rear(at least not one factory equipped). 79 F-350 4x4 trucks came with a Dana 60 rear axle, not 70. This is because all Dana 70's of that vintage were DRW axles(at least all that I'm aware of). Even the ones with single rear wheels are technically DRW axles. They will NOT fit between the springs of your "wide" frame without modification. You can make it work....But the drum brakes have to go, none of the disk brake kit brackets will BOLT on, and the spring pad will set right where the axle tapers. You're better off starting with a different axle.
Beginning in 80, there were SRW Dana 70 axles....which were available for a few years. Then Ford switched to the 10.25 axle in trucks. If you want a cheap "bolt in" axle, the early 80's SRW 70 is a good choice. The 14 bolt is most likely even cheaper. Both of these axles a very strong, and have good aftermarket support.....such as disk brake kits.
Vans kept the Dana axles. 2000+ axles have disk brakes AND the 8 on 6.5 lug pattern. But, SWR van 70's are rare...if they even exist at all. The DRW models have a WMS of about 72 inches....which is about 3 inches wider than a Dana 60 front.
Deciding which one is not easy. There are so many different factors. First thing you need to do, is decide what gears and differential you want to run. Each axle has different choices at very different prices. If you get lucky and find a Dana 70 with a 2 piece carrier, you can get a dirt cheap Detroit Locker (just like the 14 bolt). But, I've bought 3 Dana 70's in the past 2 months, and struck out every time on the 2 piece carrier.
Now, if you're on a budget....here is what I believe is the smartest idea. Some will agree with me.....but I can think of at least one who won't. Anyways, spend as little on the rear axle as possible. This means you're gonna need to run a 14 bolt. Now, some may pick on you about running the Chevy axle. But the people who "know".....will know you mean business. You can either weld it, or get a Detroit for cheap.
Now, take all the money you DIDN'T spend on the REAR axle, and put it into the Dana 60 FRONT axle. Get some SUPERIOR shafts, good universal joints, and some drive flanges...NOT locking hubs. There is absolutely no reason to spend ANY excess money beefing up a rear 60 when a $50 junkyard 14 bolt will STILL be stronger.
Let me know if you have any more specific questions. I'll do my best to answer them correctly......instead of spewing a bunch of irrelevant and incorrect information.
Allan,
The Dana 60 front is a great axle. However, you need to take into consideration that it was originally used in trucks with 32 inch tires and 150-200 hp engines. As trucks have gotten heavier and more powerful, the axle has evolved. The biggest and baddest 60 is the "Super 60"....found in the 2005+ F-450/550 trucks. It's about the same strength as the 70HD front axle in the GM 4500/5500 trucks. Both of these axles DWARF the 78-79 king pin 60, and even the early Dana 70 front axles. If money was no object....forget the Rockwells, THIS is what you want.
Personally, I wouldn't run anything bigger than 40's on a 79 style 60 - Even with chromoly shafts. But that's just my opinion. Reliability is my main concern, and I wanna know that I can always drive the truck home after I'm through playing. But, since you've made it this far on a Dana 44....a 60 should probably hold up fine for you. I actually kept my mouth shut in the beginning because I assumed your truck was a trailer queen(no offense). And I actually have to agree with Fat Dan about your driving style. Maybe I'm wrong?? But, this thread has been steered so far off topic by one inexperienced individual.....that I'll voice my opinion.
That being said, here are some things to keep in mind:
The stock shafts suck! They neck down to nearly Dana 44 diameter. The stub shafts are only 30 spline. The replacement Spicer shafts don't taper as much. If you have a Chevy or Dodge axle, all you have to do is get replacement Spicer shafts and 35 spline outers. This is a great low-buck upgrade. However, Spicer does not make any 35 spline stub shafts for Ford applications. Because of this, you might as well just step up to chromoly shafts.
As for the rear axle....there is a reason why everyone who actually has experience with 4x4 trucks (including a Moderator), says NOT to use a Dana 60 rear axle. IF you just MUST have a 60, AND you can find one from a late model E-350 van for cheap, OK. These are the ONLY ones will take 35 spline shafts(that I can personally verify)....and are the ONLY ones that are worth your time. But as I said in an earlier post, these axles are essentially Dana 70's with a Dana 60 differential.
Another axle that won't work is a pre 80 Dana 70. I don't wanna step on someone's toes....but you won't find a truck with a Dana 60 front and usable Dana 70 rear(at least not one factory equipped). 79 F-350 4x4 trucks came with a Dana 60 rear axle, not 70. This is because all Dana 70's of that vintage were DRW axles(at least all that I'm aware of). Even the ones with single rear wheels are technically DRW axles. They will NOT fit between the springs of your "wide" frame without modification. You can make it work....But the drum brakes have to go, none of the disk brake kit brackets will BOLT on, and the spring pad will set right where the axle tapers. You're better off starting with a different axle.
Beginning in 80, there were SRW Dana 70 axles....which were available for a few years. Then Ford switched to the 10.25 axle in trucks. If you want a cheap "bolt in" axle, the early 80's SRW 70 is a good choice. The 14 bolt is most likely even cheaper. Both of these axles a very strong, and have good aftermarket support.....such as disk brake kits.
Vans kept the Dana axles. 2000+ axles have disk brakes AND the 8 on 6.5 lug pattern. But, SWR van 70's are rare...if they even exist at all. The DRW models have a WMS of about 72 inches....which is about 3 inches wider than a Dana 60 front.
Deciding which one is not easy. There are so many different factors. First thing you need to do, is decide what gears and differential you want to run. Each axle has different choices at very different prices. If you get lucky and find a Dana 70 with a 2 piece carrier, you can get a dirt cheap Detroit Locker (just like the 14 bolt). But, I've bought 3 Dana 70's in the past 2 months, and struck out every time on the 2 piece carrier.
Now, if you're on a budget....here is what I believe is the smartest idea. Some will agree with me.....but I can think of at least one who won't. Anyways, spend as little on the rear axle as possible. This means you're gonna need to run a 14 bolt. Now, some may pick on you about running the Chevy axle. But the people who "know".....will know you mean business. You can either weld it, or get a Detroit for cheap.
Now, take all the money you DIDN'T spend on the REAR axle, and put it into the Dana 60 FRONT axle. Get some SUPERIOR shafts, good universal joints, and some drive flanges...NOT locking hubs. There is absolutely no reason to spend ANY excess money beefing up a rear 60 when a $50 junkyard 14 bolt will STILL be stronger.
Let me know if you have any more specific questions. I'll do my best to answer them correctly......instead of spewing a bunch of irrelevant and incorrect information.
#37
Dynatrac has a "Stub Hub" kit that's really trick!! You can get it with a 5 on 5.5 pattern as well. ......not cheap though
#38
the stub hub ain't a bad idea with already having cash in the rear axle, but depending on how bad he beats his truck, and i mean after the new motor, cause power is hard to play gently with, it's addictive when you have it. i think you should get the motor done first and see where you stand. i don't know your wheeling style, but it sounds like you might be able to get away with upgraded shafts in the rear after the motor is done, maybe a full float hub conversion to take away a little bit more stress on the 9. 60 stub hub, 9 with new shafts and you might be good
#39
So one company makes them for the 9" if you use $150 of other parts to make it fit. There are lots of cheaper 7.XX for the D60. I didn't say it didn't exist. I just said I hadn't seen one. How many people have you actually known running one????
I don't think talking about the merits of the 60 rear versus the 9 is any more off topic than talking about a 60 front that he didn't even ask about.
Which is what you guys have done for the past few posts.
I don't think talking about the merits of the 60 rear versus the 9 is any more off topic than talking about a 60 front that he didn't even ask about.
Which is what you guys have done for the past few posts.
#41
Another axle that won't work is a pre 80 Dana 70. I don't wanna step on someone's toes....but you won't find a truck with a Dana 60 front and usable Dana 70 rear(at least not one factory equipped). 79 F-350 4x4 trucks came with a Dana 60 rear axle, not 70. This is because all Dana 70's of that vintage were DRW axles(at least all that I'm aware of). Even the ones with single rear wheels are technically DRW axles. They will NOT fit between the springs of your "wide" frame without modification. You can make it work....But the drum brakes have to go, none of the disk brake kit brackets will BOLT on, and the spring pad will set right where the axle tapers. You're better off starting with a different axle.
Im pretty sure the 70's 2wd F350's were all SWR Dana 70's that will bolt right in (other than maybe the ujoint).
I do agree about the 14 bolt though and I will be swaping one in my 79 F350 4x4 the next time my weak rear Dana 60 fails.
I wish I never spent the money on the 4:88 gears, chromo shafts and detroit locker on this rear end only to have it break on me twice now.
Id be happy to sell it and just get what I paid for the locker back but no one wants to spend that much on one of these axles.
#42
how much does the conversion for 5x5.5 run? thats where i saying he would probably be ahead if he did that. he would be able to do nothing with the rearend, not have to buy new wheels, and "only" be putting the 60 up front. id look hard at doing that, you may end up ahead depending on how much that conversion is. also, with a 60, he may end up running leaf springs in the front too.
#43
I believe it's $450. These people have them I believe.
Chevy, Ford, Dodge Dana 60 5 & 6 & 8 Lug Hubs. Plus Custom Ordering
Chevy, Ford, Dodge Dana 60 5 & 6 & 8 Lug Hubs. Plus Custom Ordering
#44
Sorry if I am treading on anyone, I have not read through all of the posts.
In my opinion a Front Dana 60 and 14 Bolt rear is hard hard to beat. The dana 60 front is a no brainer but these are my reasons for using a 14 bolt rear in my own dentside.
They are cheap and plentiful
They are brutally Strong.
They are extremely easy to setup.
When properly shaven they offer more ground clearence then a dana 44!
I spent $125 Dollars on a used 14 bolt, I spent another $325 on 5.13 gears and install kit, and I spent around $450 for a brand new detroit. Disc Brake brackets set me back 40$ and my drivetrains was set.
Be sure to get a 14 bolt with an open carrier because a detroit will not drop into a carrier with the GOV-Loc traction system.
What is this under you ask?
The truck of course is a work in progress. The last issue you'll have is spring perch width. I just torched the old ones off, and made new ones out of 3x3 square tubing, if anyone is interested i'll try to snap a picture the next time im in the shop.
In my opinion a Front Dana 60 and 14 Bolt rear is hard hard to beat. The dana 60 front is a no brainer but these are my reasons for using a 14 bolt rear in my own dentside.
They are cheap and plentiful
They are brutally Strong.
They are extremely easy to setup.
When properly shaven they offer more ground clearence then a dana 44!
I spent $125 Dollars on a used 14 bolt, I spent another $325 on 5.13 gears and install kit, and I spent around $450 for a brand new detroit. Disc Brake brackets set me back 40$ and my drivetrains was set.
Be sure to get a 14 bolt with an open carrier because a detroit will not drop into a carrier with the GOV-Loc traction system.
What is this under you ask?
The truck of course is a work in progress. The last issue you'll have is spring perch width. I just torched the old ones off, and made new ones out of 3x3 square tubing, if anyone is interested i'll try to snap a picture the next time im in the shop.
#45
....Don't wanna start another flaming war here. But the SRW 2wd F-350's were built on "narrow" cab and chassis style frames, with the longer cab and chassis wheelbase......and used the same DRW axle.