How do I check my block for cavitation?
#32
Mine has never done it.
I might try that, but I really want to be able to turn it upside down to work on the under side standing up.
#33
I've read the way to test is to put the cylinders under pressure for XX hours and see if it maintains pressure. If it does, the block is good. If it doesn't, cavitation or some other issue has owned your block.
As far as your engine stand... Which one did you buy? What's its weight capacity rating?
As far as your engine stand... Which one did you buy? What's its weight capacity rating?
I stripped all the weight off that I could, its just about a bare long block, thinking that would get it under the 1K limit.
EDIT: We can't say *******?
Yes, I know that.
#34
#35
#37
#40
When I test for cavitation/blown head gasket I like to do it with the engine still in the truck.
Fill the radiator full.
Remove the rockers and glow plugs.
Shop air into each glow plug hole, look for bubbles in the radiator.
No bubbles on the first cylinder, move to the next till you get all of them tested.
When you put shop air in the cylinder, the piston moves to BDC, so you test the entire cylinder and head gasket.
Now you know which cylinders have a problem.
You can do this test with the engine removed, just block the lower radiator hose and heater hoses so you can fill the block with water.
You will watch for bubbles in the upper radiator hose neck.
After you have the problem cylinder list, if you can get the crank and pistons out without removing the heads, pressure in the cooling system will now let you look in each of the problem cylinders to see if the problem is head gasket or cavitation.
With your engine stand, you now see why I recommend everything you use pulling an engine or holding it up should be rated at at least 1200 pounds with higher being better.
A failed lifting or holding device while you are working on the engine has the potential for serious bodily injury, which is never a good thing.
The best hoist or stand on the market is very cheap when you consider the possible cost of a severed or maimed body part.
Fill the radiator full.
Remove the rockers and glow plugs.
Shop air into each glow plug hole, look for bubbles in the radiator.
No bubbles on the first cylinder, move to the next till you get all of them tested.
When you put shop air in the cylinder, the piston moves to BDC, so you test the entire cylinder and head gasket.
Now you know which cylinders have a problem.
You can do this test with the engine removed, just block the lower radiator hose and heater hoses so you can fill the block with water.
You will watch for bubbles in the upper radiator hose neck.
After you have the problem cylinder list, if you can get the crank and pistons out without removing the heads, pressure in the cooling system will now let you look in each of the problem cylinders to see if the problem is head gasket or cavitation.
With your engine stand, you now see why I recommend everything you use pulling an engine or holding it up should be rated at at least 1200 pounds with higher being better.
A failed lifting or holding device while you are working on the engine has the potential for serious bodily injury, which is never a good thing.
The best hoist or stand on the market is very cheap when you consider the possible cost of a severed or maimed body part.
#41
I couldn't agree more! If your going to try and save money on tools do not do it with things that can kill you. Hoist, engine stand, floor jack, jack stands... Always buy them higher rated then you think you will ever need!
#42
When I test for cavitation/blown head gasket I like to do it with the engine still in the truck.
Fill the radiator full.
Remove the rockers and glow plugs.
Shop air into each glow plug hole, look for bubbles in the radiator.
No bubbles on the first cylinder, move to the next till you get all of them tested.
When you put shop air in the cylinder, the piston moves to BDC, so you test the entire cylinder and head gasket.
Now you know which cylinders have a problem.
You can do this test with the engine removed, just block the lower radiator hose and heater hoses so you can fill the block with water.
You will watch for bubbles in the upper radiator hose neck.
After you have the problem cylinder list, if you can get the crank and pistons out without removing the heads, pressure in the cooling system will now let you look in each of the problem cylinders to see if the problem is head gasket or cavitation.
Fill the radiator full.
Remove the rockers and glow plugs.
Shop air into each glow plug hole, look for bubbles in the radiator.
No bubbles on the first cylinder, move to the next till you get all of them tested.
When you put shop air in the cylinder, the piston moves to BDC, so you test the entire cylinder and head gasket.
Now you know which cylinders have a problem.
You can do this test with the engine removed, just block the lower radiator hose and heater hoses so you can fill the block with water.
You will watch for bubbles in the upper radiator hose neck.
After you have the problem cylinder list, if you can get the crank and pistons out without removing the heads, pressure in the cooling system will now let you look in each of the problem cylinders to see if the problem is head gasket or cavitation.
You gave Me the same instrutions on My " 50 miles on new truck and burning coolant" thread, I am just now getting to fix it.
With your engine stand, you now see why I recommend everything you use pulling an engine or holding it up should be rated at at least 1200 pounds with higher being better.
A failed lifting or holding device while you are working on the engine has the potential for serious bodily injury, which is never a good thing.
The best hoist or stand on the market is very cheap when you consider the possible cost of a severed or maimed body part.
A failed lifting or holding device while you are working on the engine has the potential for serious bodily injury, which is never a good thing.
The best hoist or stand on the market is very cheap when you consider the possible cost of a severed or maimed body part.
I thought I could save some money and just stay in a spot where I could get away fast if I needed to, but the stand won't even rotate.
You, Joe, Star, and the guys at the auto parts store told me to go for a higher rated one, I really should have listend.
It could have been worse, I could be hurt.
This just puts me a day behind where I thought I would be.
#43
Ok, I forced the cheap stand to turn with a cheater bar and it worked.
I got the crank out and was going to pull the pistons out the bottom end to test it with the heads on.
Only 2 of them come out.
The other 6 need the heads pulled to come out the top.
How do I do the test with the heads on if I can't see the cylinder walls?
I got the crank out and was going to pull the pistons out the bottom end to test it with the heads on.
Only 2 of them come out.
The other 6 need the heads pulled to come out the top.
How do I do the test with the heads on if I can't see the cylinder walls?