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How do I check my block for cavitation?

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  #31  
Old 04-03-2010, 11:52 PM
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i tols u so i tiold u got get a heavy duty one
 
  #32  
Old 04-03-2010, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by johnboggs21
Careful, ya might start spittin out spark plugs LOL

I dunno what could be done about that engine stand. maybe you can get somethin underneath it to help support it so it would be safe to take a peek underneath.
The spark plug blowing out thing is not as big a deal as people think.
Mine has never done it.

I might try that, but I really want to be able to turn it upside down to work on the under side standing up.
 
  #33  
Old 04-03-2010, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by mechelement
I've read the way to test is to put the cylinders under pressure for XX hours and see if it maintains pressure. If it does, the block is good. If it doesn't, cavitation or some other issue has owned your block.

As far as your engine stand... Which one did you buy? What's its weight capacity rating?
The 1,000 pound one from harbor freight. Yes, I know. I'm a cheap *******.
I stripped all the weight off that I could, its just about a bare long block, thinking that would get it under the 1K limit.

EDIT: We can't say *******?

Originally Posted by joe f350
i tols u so i tiold u got get a heavy duty one
Yes, I know that.
 
  #34  
Old 04-04-2010, 12:05 AM
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Ahhhh HF... For anything HF that has a rating or capacity, a good rule of thumb is to always divide it by two to be safe. I saw those HF engine stands in the HF flyer this morning.
 
  #35  
Old 04-04-2010, 12:10 AM
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I know that, I am going to have to go back for the heavy one.
I was just kind of being stupid, but I thought I could save the $70 going from the 1K to the 2K.
Not that big of a deal, hopefully they are open sunday.
 
  #36  
Old 04-04-2010, 12:19 AM
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I believe they're open here on Sunday. Best of luck with your motor and no cavitation.
 
  #37  
Old 04-04-2010, 12:29 AM
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I think they are too, I will call in the morning and see.
Thanks, thats what I am hoping for. If its shot, I will drop my 6.9 out of my parts truck in after new bearings, rings and gaskets.
 
  #38  
Old 04-04-2010, 12:39 AM
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I like to buy the two year waranty from harbor freight so I can take it back after I breaks it
 
  #39  
Old 04-04-2010, 12:47 AM
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There stuff comes with a 90 day warrenty, and I can always break it inside of that.
 
  #40  
Old 04-04-2010, 11:05 AM
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When I test for cavitation/blown head gasket I like to do it with the engine still in the truck.

Fill the radiator full.
Remove the rockers and glow plugs.
Shop air into each glow plug hole, look for bubbles in the radiator.
No bubbles on the first cylinder, move to the next till you get all of them tested.
When you put shop air in the cylinder, the piston moves to BDC, so you test the entire cylinder and head gasket.

Now you know which cylinders have a problem.

You can do this test with the engine removed, just block the lower radiator hose and heater hoses so you can fill the block with water.

You will watch for bubbles in the upper radiator hose neck.

After you have the problem cylinder list, if you can get the crank and pistons out without removing the heads, pressure in the cooling system will now let you look in each of the problem cylinders to see if the problem is head gasket or cavitation.

With your engine stand, you now see why I recommend everything you use pulling an engine or holding it up should be rated at at least 1200 pounds with higher being better.

A failed lifting or holding device while you are working on the engine has the potential for serious bodily injury, which is never a good thing.

The best hoist or stand on the market is very cheap when you consider the possible cost of a severed or maimed body part.
 
  #41  
Old 04-04-2010, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
The best hoist or stand on the market is very cheap when you consider the possible cost of a severed or maimed body part.
I couldn't agree more! If your going to try and save money on tools do not do it with things that can kill you. Hoist, engine stand, floor jack, jack stands... Always buy them higher rated then you think you will ever need!
 
  #42  
Old 04-04-2010, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
When I test for cavitation/blown head gasket I like to do it with the engine still in the truck.

Fill the radiator full.
Remove the rockers and glow plugs.
Shop air into each glow plug hole, look for bubbles in the radiator.
No bubbles on the first cylinder, move to the next till you get all of them tested.
When you put shop air in the cylinder, the piston moves to BDC, so you test the entire cylinder and head gasket.

Now you know which cylinders have a problem.

You can do this test with the engine removed, just block the lower radiator hose and heater hoses so you can fill the block with water.

You will watch for bubbles in the upper radiator hose neck.

After you have the problem cylinder list, if you can get the crank and pistons out without removing the heads, pressure in the cooling system will now let you look in each of the problem cylinders to see if the problem is head gasket or cavitation.
I did that test in the truck right after it died and found that all the cylinders on the right ( passengers side) have low or no compression and leak water.
You gave Me the same instrutions on My " 50 miles on new truck and burning coolant" thread, I am just now getting to fix it.
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
With your engine stand, you now see why I recommend everything you use pulling an engine or holding it up should be rated at at least 1200 pounds with higher being better.

A failed lifting or holding device while you are working on the engine has the potential for serious bodily injury, which is never a good thing.

The best hoist or stand on the market is very cheap when you consider the possible cost of a severed or maimed body part.
They are closed but I am going back for the 2,000 pound stand Monday.
I thought I could save some money and just stay in a spot where I could get away fast if I needed to, but the stand won't even rotate.

You, Joe, Star, and the guys at the auto parts store told me to go for a higher rated one, I really should have listend.

It could have been worse, I could be hurt.
This just puts me a day behind where I thought I would be.
 
  #43  
Old 04-04-2010, 06:56 PM
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Ok, I forced the cheap stand to turn with a cheater bar and it worked.

I got the crank out and was going to pull the pistons out the bottom end to test it with the heads on.
Only 2 of them come out.
The other 6 need the heads pulled to come out the top.
How do I do the test with the heads on if I can't see the cylinder walls?
 
  #44  
Old 04-04-2010, 10:40 PM
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Did you narrow it down to which cylinder or cylinders were leaking before you pulled the engine.
 
  #45  
Old 04-04-2010, 10:44 PM
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Yes, every cylinder on the passenger side, some worse than others.
 


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