modified b code ?
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,790
Likes: 24
From: Mount Royal, NJ
Back then, the reason that I figured out how to modify my B's was that I had Firestone airbags and did not want to have to use a taller riser block from the F350's to get the rear height up to match the fron V codes. Using a 350 block would have meant that my Firestone bags and mount would not work.
The lift was cheap (as in no cost) and it lifted it extremely well. It is not for everyone, and it is just an alternative to get a reasonable lift.
Benefits for me was it lifted the rear 2.9 inches and increased the spring rate. I really wanted the increased rate for towing trailers, and I had almost no budget left for parts.
Lately, I have added a vvery heavy front bumper, and my front end is down enough for the heght difference front to rear to be very noticable. So I have a 2.5" add on spring pack from Summit to put on in the front. This will level the whole thing out with a total of 4.25" of front lift and 2.9" of rear lift. (the rear is between 1 and 1.5 inches taller from the factory to start with)
But, like I said, everyone has different needs, desires, and wallets. Just look around hard and pick the spring option(s) that sound best for you.
The lift was cheap (as in no cost) and it lifted it extremely well. It is not for everyone, and it is just an alternative to get a reasonable lift.
Benefits for me was it lifted the rear 2.9 inches and increased the spring rate. I really wanted the increased rate for towing trailers, and I had almost no budget left for parts.
Lately, I have added a vvery heavy front bumper, and my front end is down enough for the heght difference front to rear to be very noticable. So I have a 2.5" add on spring pack from Summit to put on in the front. This will level the whole thing out with a total of 4.25" of front lift and 2.9" of rear lift. (the rear is between 1 and 1.5 inches taller from the factory to start with)
But, like I said, everyone has different needs, desires, and wallets. Just look around hard and pick the spring option(s) that sound best for you.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
If I had to do it all over again, I'd go with W codes up front and either B codes on the rear and RAS, modded B's and RAS, or possibly C codes and RAS.
If I did the C's on the rear, depending on how high it lifted the rear (along with the RAS), I'd probably want to add a spring pack to the W's up front.
Stewart
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
I thought that it was necessary to use the 3.5" block instead of the stock ex block to get the proper pinion angle. Does adding the two leafs from the ex give the b codes the proper rise? I am currently waiting on the blocks to install my b codes. I only want to do this once so if someone could clarify........
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
I wouldn't say necessary, but I would say prudent, or recommended.
There have been posts where guys have done the B's on the rear, kept the stock flat block, and have driveline vibrations that were solved by swapping in the tapered blocks.
There are also guys who have been ok with using the stock block.
Also, using the bigger tapered block raises the rear enough so that the front isn't higher.
Stewart
There have been posts where guys have done the B's on the rear, kept the stock flat block, and have driveline vibrations that were solved by swapping in the tapered blocks.
There are also guys who have been ok with using the stock block.
Also, using the bigger tapered block raises the rear enough so that the front isn't higher.
Stewart
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,790
Likes: 24
From: Mount Royal, NJ
For all you ever wanted to know about driveshafts, U joints, angles, and vibration, I found the web site below to be excellent. A bit of a read, but when you get done, ou can determine through proper measuring, whether or not your finished setup has the right angles or not. The guy who did the writeup did a great job.
Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive
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Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive
..
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,540
Likes: 1
From: Southwest VA
Saw someone talking "P" codes for the rear that utilized the stock block.....ever heard of them ??
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 215
Likes: 3
From: Michigan
I have the modified B's and like them alot. I was going to use the B's as they were but I got impatient waiting on the taller blocks that I had to order. By going the modified route I was able to keep the shorter blocks (which should reduce the tendancy for axle wrap), save money (no bigger blocks to buy), get it done right away, get the correct amount of lift and increase the capacity.
I tow a 6500lb. Travel Trailer with 900lbs tongue weight and they work really well. Also, I have not had any driveline vibration issues with this setup.
The process of modifying them was not difficult. A couple good sized c-clamps and longer center bolts was pretty much all you need to do it.
I tow a 6500lb. Travel Trailer with 900lbs tongue weight and they work really well. Also, I have not had any driveline vibration issues with this setup.
The process of modifying them was not difficult. A couple good sized c-clamps and longer center bolts was pretty much all you need to do it.
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Things went well with the v and modded b swap. only problem is after pulling home my new TT I have a leak in the rear pinion seal. Is this a coincidence or related to the spring swap or TT? Either way I could use some advice on pinion seal stuff.
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