TFI to duraspark conversion
#1
07-31-2009, 06:00 PM
TFI to duraspark conversion
ok guys im stuck. im taking out my TFI and swapping to the DSII ignition. i have the carb switched to a non-feedback already and have pulled out the computer and all the wires connected to it. i went to the junkyard and got the wiring harness that connects the 4 wire plug to the distributor and to the negative side of the coil. now the problem,
how do i power the positive side of the coil and the 2 wire plug on the ignition module? I have searched this site as well as read the instructions on www.therangerstation.com my problem is that i dont have the wires they refer to.
has anyone done this swap in a 1986 F-150 with a 4.9L and 4 speed?
how do i power the positive side of the coil and the 2 wire plug on the ignition module? I have searched this site as well as read the instructions on www.therangerstation.com my problem is that i dont have the wires they refer to.
has anyone done this swap in a 1986 F-150 with a 4.9L and 4 speed?
#2
07-31-2009, 10:23 PM
Your original wiring; Do you have a white/lightblue that went to the original coil? If so, take this wire and test it for voltage with the key in run and start.
If everything is going ok so far, take this wire and make a splice. From the splice, run one wire to the red power wire on the duraspark module. From the splice run another wire to a large white Chrysler type resistor you can get at the parts store. Mount this resistor on the firewall where it can get hot without damaging anything.
On the other side of the resistor, run a wire to the + of the coil. The neg of the coil should go to the module wiring harness.
The other wire on the duraspark module; This should be the white wire. Splice into this wire and run it along the firewall and over to the starter solenoid on the pass fender. Tie this wire into the red/blue that goes to the "s" terminal.
It should run like this.
If everything is going ok so far, take this wire and make a splice. From the splice, run one wire to the red power wire on the duraspark module. From the splice run another wire to a large white Chrysler type resistor you can get at the parts store. Mount this resistor on the firewall where it can get hot without damaging anything.
On the other side of the resistor, run a wire to the + of the coil. The neg of the coil should go to the module wiring harness.
The other wire on the duraspark module; This should be the white wire. Splice into this wire and run it along the firewall and over to the starter solenoid on the pass fender. Tie this wire into the red/blue that goes to the "s" terminal.
It should run like this.
#3
08-02-2009, 10:39 AM
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Franklin2
- I'm new to the boards here. I just want to say thanks to you and so many others for all the helpful info on wiring in the DSII conversion. I'm also doing the same on my 84 300 I6 (orig TFI-IV).
Unlike Randy2631 however, I haven't yanked the computer or gaggle-of-wires associated with it (yet) because I'm still uncertain about a few things. Which brings me to my question....
Q?: Would it be appropriate to ask (here) for further clarification on wiring issues (relating to computer wire bundles and what to do with them while doing a DSII conversion)? Or is preferred to start with my own posting.
Being new here, I'm hugely appreciative of all the helpful contributions you guys put out there for fledglings like myself. Just trying not to be a dumb newbie who inadvertently
'hi-jacks' someone else's thread.
Thanks!
DaveR.
- I'm new to the boards here. I just want to say thanks to you and so many others for all the helpful info on wiring in the DSII conversion. I'm also doing the same on my 84 300 I6 (orig TFI-IV).
Unlike Randy2631 however, I haven't yanked the computer or gaggle-of-wires associated with it (yet) because I'm still uncertain about a few things. Which brings me to my question....
Q?: Would it be appropriate to ask (here) for further clarification on wiring issues (relating to computer wire bundles and what to do with them while doing a DSII conversion)? Or is preferred to start with my own posting.
Being new here, I'm hugely appreciative of all the helpful contributions you guys put out there for fledglings like myself. Just trying not to be a dumb newbie who inadvertently
'hi-jacks' someone else's thread.
Thanks!
DaveR.
#4
08-02-2009, 04:09 PM
#5
08-03-2009, 11:08 AM
I just switched the EEC-IV/TFI Ignition on my 1985 Ford 150 to a Duraspark II ignition system, so maybe I can help you, Randy.
If you got the OEM wire harness from another pre-1983 Ford truck, you have it made. Hopefully you got the complete harness that runs from the ignition module to the distributor and then the the ignition coil with the horseshoe connector on the end of it. The oil pressure and temp gauge wires should have also been in this harness, making this job really easy.
You will need a pre-1983 distributor, a MOTORCRAFT Duraspark II ignition module, and the round canister style coil.
YES, he should have this wire in his original wire harness. It should be attached to a plug along with a red wire. Look on the driver's side plastic inner fender, toward the back coming from the firewall. This plug is the other connection that attaches to your ignition module. This should also activate your factory resistor wire.
If you found a wire harness from a 1983 or older F-Series truck that used the Duraspark II, NONE of these steps will be necessary. It really is a plug and play procedure. You ALREADY HAVE the factory resistor wire hidden and unused in your existing wire harness, so you do NOT need to buy an extra resistor. Again, look on the driver's side inner fender toward the back, coming out of the firewall. It will probably be all wrapped up in tape along with other wires. You can't miss it; it will be very thick and is colored red or pink.
This wire should be in the wire harness you got from the junkyard. All you have to do is plug it in.
Again, NONE of this is necessary if you can find a Ford wire harness. Your truck is already wired for this.
If you got the OEM wire harness from another pre-1983 Ford truck, you have it made. Hopefully you got the complete harness that runs from the ignition module to the distributor and then the the ignition coil with the horseshoe connector on the end of it. The oil pressure and temp gauge wires should have also been in this harness, making this job really easy.
You will need a pre-1983 distributor, a MOTORCRAFT Duraspark II ignition module, and the round canister style coil.
Your original wiring; Do you have a white/lightblue that went to the original coil? If so, take this wire and test it for voltage with the key in run and start.
If everything is going ok so far, take this wire and make a splice. From the splice, run one wire to the red power wire on the duraspark module. From the splice run another wire to a large white Chrysler type resistor you can get at the parts store. Mount this resistor on the firewall where it can get hot without damaging anything.
On the other side of the resistor, run a wire to the + of the coil. The neg of the coil should go to the module wiring harness.
The other wire on the duraspark module; This should be the white wire. Splice into this wire and run it along the firewall and over to the starter solenoid on the pass fender. Tie this wire into the red/blue that goes to the "s" terminal.
#6
03-23-2010, 10:52 PM
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Red or pink?
I just switched the EEC-IV/TFI Ignition on my 1985 Ford 150 to a Duraspark II ignition system, so maybe I can help you, Randy.
If you got the OEM wire harness from another pre-1983 Ford truck, you have it made. Hopefully you got the complete harness that runs from the ignition module to the distributor and then the the ignition coil with the horseshoe connector on the end of it. The oil pressure and temp gauge wires should have also been in this harness, making this job really easy.
You will need a pre-1983 distributor, a MOTORCRAFT Duraspark II ignition module, and the round canister style coil.
Frank
YES, he should have this wire in his original wire harness. It should be attached to a plug along with a red wire. Look on the driver's side plastic inner fender, toward the back coming from the firewall. This plug is the other connection that attaches to your ignition module. This should also activate your factory resistor wire.
If you found a wire harness from a 1983 or older F-Series truck that used the Duraspark II, NONE of these steps will be necessary. It really is a plug and play procedure. You ALREADY HAVE the factory resistor wire hidden and unused in your existing wire harness, so you do NOT need to buy an extra resistor. Again, look on the driver's side inner fender toward the back, coming out of the firewall. It will probably be all wrapped up in tape along with other wires. You can't miss it; it will be very thick and is colored red or pink.
This wire should be in the wire harness you got from the junkyard. All you have to do is plug it in.
Again, NONE of this is necessary if you can find a Ford wire harness. Your truck is already wired for this.
If you got the OEM wire harness from another pre-1983 Ford truck, you have it made. Hopefully you got the complete harness that runs from the ignition module to the distributor and then the the ignition coil with the horseshoe connector on the end of it. The oil pressure and temp gauge wires should have also been in this harness, making this job really easy.
You will need a pre-1983 distributor, a MOTORCRAFT Duraspark II ignition module, and the round canister style coil.
Frank
YES, he should have this wire in his original wire harness. It should be attached to a plug along with a red wire. Look on the driver's side plastic inner fender, toward the back coming from the firewall. This plug is the other connection that attaches to your ignition module. This should also activate your factory resistor wire.
If you found a wire harness from a 1983 or older F-Series truck that used the Duraspark II, NONE of these steps will be necessary. It really is a plug and play procedure. You ALREADY HAVE the factory resistor wire hidden and unused in your existing wire harness, so you do NOT need to buy an extra resistor. Again, look on the driver's side inner fender toward the back, coming out of the firewall. It will probably be all wrapped up in tape along with other wires. You can't miss it; it will be very thick and is colored red or pink.
This wire should be in the wire harness you got from the junkyard. All you have to do is plug it in.
Again, NONE of this is necessary if you can find a Ford wire harness. Your truck is already wired for this.
I've been following these posts for DSII conversion, but your statement above confuses me.
If I have the red or pink wire (haven't unwraped it yet, too dark and cold outside), What do I do with it when I unwrap it?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Frankford6; 03-23-2010 at 10:53 PM. Reason: Left off my name
#7
03-24-2010, 07:50 AM
Originally Posted by Frankford6
I've been following these posts for DSII conversion, but your statement above confuses me.
If I have the red or pink wire (haven't unwraped it yet, too dark and cold outside), What do I do with it when I unwrap it?
If I have the red or pink wire (haven't unwraped it yet, too dark and cold outside), What do I do with it when I unwrap it?
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#8
03-24-2010, 08:22 AM
You should hopefully have these plugs on the inner fender, minus the one for the dizzy wiring, it's part of the engine harness:
I have run into some later trucks with TFI-IV that the wiring didn't match up to the earlier DS-II stuff, but, what you need to work with was still there, it's just not plug and play.
I have run into some later trucks with TFI-IV that the wiring didn't match up to the earlier DS-II stuff, but, what you need to work with was still there, it's just not plug and play.
#9
03-24-2010, 10:22 AM
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It should be a FAT red or faded red to pink wire. When you find it, you do NOTHING to it. Just know that it is there. The resistor wire will terminate to a plug along with a couple of other wires already on your truck. All you have to do is plug your donor wire harness into it.
Next question: Anyone have a donor harness for sale? The trucks at the local yards are pretty picked over- clean, actually.
#10
03-24-2010, 10:28 AM
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More questions
You should hopefully have these plugs on the inner fender, minus the one for the dizzy wiring, it's part of the engine harness:
I have run into some later trucks with TFI-IV that the wiring didn't match up to the earlier DS-II stuff, but, what you need to work with was still there, it's just not plug and play.
I have run into some later trucks with TFI-IV that the wiring didn't match up to the earlier DS-II stuff, but, what you need to work with was still there, it's just not plug and play.
I'm trying to do this conversion so that it looks as much like stock as possible.
I'll also round up a Holley reman of the Carter YF #64-1557 before I install the dizzy; I'll do it all at once.
#12
03-24-2010, 12:35 PM
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#13
03-24-2010, 01:02 PM
If my 1985 model had the factory connections already there and waiting, I don't see why your 1984 would not.
For the wire harness, you will have to find one from a junkyard or check Ebay. Junkyard would be the best, because when you unplug it from the donor vehicle, you will see what you will have to do to plug it into your own truck.
For the wire harness, you will have to find one from a junkyard or check Ebay. Junkyard would be the best, because when you unplug it from the donor vehicle, you will see what you will have to do to plug it into your own truck.
#14
03-24-2010, 01:41 PM
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Harness.
I've found a new harness at my local dealer for 75 dollars, Part number E5TZ-14289-D. They got it from a Glendale, AZ. dealer.
Seemed easier and cheaper than driving to several yards out of town, and MAYBE finding one worth a darn.
Painless wiring also offers one, PN 30812; $122.99 at Autoz***. A little too spendy for me, but a good backup position.
Thanks Lariat for the GREAT info. I'll be switching out next month, most likely. I'll keep y'all posted.
Seemed easier and cheaper than driving to several yards out of town, and MAYBE finding one worth a darn.
Painless wiring also offers one, PN 30812; $122.99 at Autoz***. A little too spendy for me, but a good backup position.
Thanks Lariat for the GREAT info. I'll be switching out next month, most likely. I'll keep y'all posted.
#15
03-24-2010, 01:51 PM
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