Let's say you were in the market for a used truck. Before you even look at it in person, what do you use to assign a value range for the truck of interest? Do you use Kelly Blue Book? Do you compare what others are asking for similar trucks in other ads? Assuming the condition was as advertised, would you offer a price that is at the KBB suggested price even if it's substantially lower than the asking price - say $2000 for something with a $3000 asking price? Would you even bother to look at it if the price were that much higher and it didn't have any recent major work like a new engine and transmission? I'm not into the whole back-and-forth bargain thing.

Note that I'm not looking for buying advice relative to what to look out for or what to check. I'm talking separating the wheat from the chaff - your philosophy for how you find/screen potential candidates that you would then pursue based on the asking price and advertised condition. I realize you would base your offer on your own evaluation.

Here's where I'm going with this. I use KBB values to screen potential candidates. However, most everything in my area is priced well over KBB excellent for a private party sale. There are almost no trucks that meet the excellent criteria. So, I end up screening out just about everything. Some I screen out because the seller is a flake (you'd be surprised how many never get back to you). Others I screen out based on the answers to a few simple questions (on the rare occasion that I get a response). I've looked at hundreds of craiglist ads for almost a year, but only looked at two trucks in person (those two sellers actually returned my call or email). One wasn't even worth taking on a test drive once I looked in person. It was priced way higher than I was willing to offer. I saw it for sale months later at an asking price that was $1700 lower than the original price. The other was priced low (but had fixable issues) and I couldn't refuse so I bought it. It had more issues than I thought, but it still worked out OK. Everything else was priced high for the advertised condition and I didn't bother because I thought the seller would be offended by what I would consider a reasonable offer. I've had one seller get mad at me (that was for a motorcycle) when I suggested his price was high relative to KBB. I'd just rather not deal with people like that.

 

I would use KBB or Edmunds. I would have no issue what so ever in asking for a discount even if the price were fair and in line for the region / condition of the vehicle.

How motivated is the seller? I will test this question.

Then the first place I look is under the hood. IF anything is out of place even a smidge, I walk. Too many people like to plug vacuum lines, reroute plumbing, rewire things and nothing but trouble comes.

When I sold my '88 F-150 and even after having told the potential buyer that the clutch was nearing it's end and the rear end was shot, I won him over with the engine bay. He popped the hood and was totally amazed that nothing had been monkeyed with and that she ran as smoothly as she did.

 

You'll have to look at (online or whatever) hundreds to find two or three that are worth bothering with. And then look at dozens of those to find a few that are maybe worth buying. Most trucks will be waaay overpriced. Ask me how I know. The ones that aren't won't last long, but don't be impulsive or fall in love with any particular pile. Get a feel for the market prices for actual sales for comparable trucks.

Bring cash and use your best judgment, be safe. Meet at a safe location, bring backup, be willing to walk. If you're not into "haggling" better learn! That's how it's done.

 

I tell craigslist I have X to spend and I want to see ALL of the vehicles for sale in that price range. Then I start adding a minus sign to all the crap I don't need to see.

 

Here's how I buy and sell everything, vehicles included........

-I have cash in hand and ready to buy---not tire kicking, talking BS just to hear myself yammer on and hope to impress those listening in---money ready to spend.

-Determine how much I'll spend and what I want, always narrowing the eventual choice to no more than two brands, types or whatevers.

-Go on an earnest search until finding the one that fits my criteria; condition and price.

-Contact seller ONLY AFTER deciding if I'll pay their full asking price IF the whatever fits my criteria. IOW I don't contact multiple sellers, enough that I forget who I've attempted to contact---narrow my choices here down to one or two at most also.

-Upon inspection if the whatever is the one I want I'll ask ONE TIME their best offer (already having decided I'll pay full price if absolutely necessary) while standing face-to-face. If their come back price is acceptable I've saved some money---if not I've still found the whatever I want so we do the deal.

-If I sell something the price is the price, take it or leave it---I tend to not need the money so a quick sale to some blithering fool who thinks there's a game in everything offered for sale is pretty much powerless in such a transaction.

IF someone comes at me with something like this KBB BS or other such crap we end the conversation quickly as I know from past experience its a useless conversation.

Maybe this works for others, maybe some find it a bit too hardassed but my time and mental heath are more important than entertaining phone shoppers who believe they know how to work a deal.

 

I agree with this. I can't stand people that think they have to haggle just because it is a private sale. It isn't some kind of rule. I said I want $1000 so that's what the price is. Maybe if you can point out a problem I wasn't aware of we can negotiate, but don't expect that.

 

Yeah---agreed naturally. I became a bit soured with all this "negotiating" while pretty actively involved with buying, selling, trading and restoring vintage Fender guitar amps. Some of those "people" were just unbelievable. I'd create a "sales tag" or label of all work preformed down the a few circuit-specific components known to cause problems down the road. Still I'd get those never reading the details and offering maybe 50% of the asking price, thinking we'd negotiate up from there. Over time I developed a few quick come backs that sent them on their way. Keep in mind all this "negotiating" went on before they'd even played something through the amp.

Like in the imaginary Old West if we just talk straight up and not muck about we all get along much better. Of course that can be applied to all of life right?

 

I don't care for negotiating either tho people seem to insist on overpricing their wares by quite a lot so oftentimes there's no way around it.