Well, now, let's be careful of this "out of spec" business when it comes to the cast iron brake drums. "Out of spec" is a dealer racket that has been picked up by the aftermarket guys. My '67 old brown sow has 300,000 miles on the original drums which have never been put on a lathe. Every 15k miles she gets front linings and every 30k miles she gets rears. Yeah, the drums are grooved but she has never had metal to metal on her brakes. Yeah, she is a mildly-driven flatlander but I am sure if I bit on this "out of spec" bait, she would be on her fifth set of drums.
Has anyone ever know of a brake drum explosion from an "out of spec" drum?

This one is sure to provoke the old salts.

Semper Fi

 

I have seen them break. I have seen them wore so bad your e brake didn't have enough adjustment to work. Any time they are out of spec your wheel cylinders stay extended more than they are made to amplifying the chance of a leak.
I have to ask why do you run grooved drums, it is not like they are expensive, and it is your brakes.

 

Yes I've seen them break also. Not very common on light duty vehicles but it does happen. Now big trucks are a different story.

 

Starmilt is right, of course, but there is some truth in what I posted above about "out of spec".
Drums may be cheap, I don't know, I don't buy them. But rotors sure aren't cheap. A few years ago I took in a set of rotors to be turned. I had done one brake job before and the clown high school kid set the lathe so deep that he destroyed the rotors. They were "out of spec" and could not be cut again. Big aggravation and cost to replace.
I got in my habits decades ago when I was poverty-stricken. Now that I am merely poor, I think I will invest in a set of drums for my '67.

Semper Fi

 

Before this thread closes out, I want to share with you folks what Toothless Jake taught me about checking the serviceability of brake drums. There are three tests:

1) The "Stomp" Test- Put the drum on a flat deck, like a driveway, outside up, and stomp it. Not too hard. If it falls in, replace.

2) The "Warp" test- Grab the drum in both hands and twist. If it noticeably distorts, like a pie plate, replace.

3) The "See-Through" test- Shine a penlight flashlight through the drum from the inside, the grooved shiny surface, out. If light comes through anywhere, replace.

You can get free replacement drums in the discard "out of spec" bin behind your local Sears or Midas franchise. Fish around for a replacement and you are assured of another 100,000 miles of reasonably safe service.

I hope this helps.

Semper Fi

 

LMAO one thing for sure if it fails one of your 3 tests it is time to replace them.

Cougar the price of rotors for these rigs have come way from what they were back in the day. Lots of places don't even mess with turning them anymore.

 

Well I've located most of the parts I need from my local Napa dealer for prices less then I expected. New drums at less then $50 each seems reasonable to me. I am still debating adding the booster or not. I need to check the chapters forum and see if any one in my local area want s to get greasy for a few hours to assist with the job. Thanks for all your help and responses. I will post my progress.
Joe

 

Joe, you'll notice a big difference in stopping power with a booster. The price on the drums is pretty fair. I can remember buying them for around $26 - $27 apiece, but then again that was 25 years ago.

 

Will adding a booster require additional parts or would it be like installing a new master cylinder except it has the booster attached. Is there other changes involved. I guess I am asking what is involved in adding a booster to a non-power brake setup?
Joe

 

You'll need a new master cylinder and a booster to go with it.

 

Joe on the power booster. you can use your existing master cylinder. all you need to do is put the new booster on (you will not need to undo any of the brake lines). make sure the booster is for a 72. and its a good upgrade, so is the disc conversion when you can do that one too.

 

I'm across the bridge from you, in Contra Costa County.

I'd be willing to help if I can fit it in the schedule.

 

That's what I'm talking about, neighbors helping neighbors.




John

 

I would appreciate any time you may have to offer. I am thinking of the weekend of 4\10. The one after Easter. You can email me to figure it out @ jvc123@comcast.net. I was working in Concord and Walnut Creek until recently getting transferred to Vallejo.....no bridge to cross was an instant raise.
Let me know it this will fit your schedule.
Joe

 

Sometimes I hate you guys with the F100's

I needed front drums for my '68 F250 and the local parts store could get them for about $80-$90 each side retail cost. Luckily I found someone to let me use there "shop discount" and got both for $60.

Joco brakes are fairly simple to work on.
The chilton or Hanes books should walk you through the process. And I think any special brake tools can be rented or borrowed from some of the chain auto part stores. If I remember correctly I gave one of the chain stores $50 for a brake bleader and when I returned it they gave me the $50 back.

As for the booster. Im not sure but you might have to replace or at least rebend the master cylinder lines. The booster will move the master cylinder into the engine bay a few inches.

And I have learned a lot from this forum. Some of the guys here even help me out with my non truck problems and even non Ford problems.