I haven't tried that yet. I suppose I could with the remote starter button.

 

ok after reading this post several times i think I can give you some pointers,bear with me on this.The reason it is continuing to "crank" is there is a short to the solinoide.the "start" trigger is shorting to the pos. of the ign prob through the switch.To simplify it.The solinoide only needs 1 wire to trigger it.the same wire that triggers it can be used to feed your ign box for the hot in"crank" position.the second wire for the ign box is a hot in run position from your switch.The wires on your ing box are the 2 seperate wires in there own plug.I believe they are white and red.I am not sure which one is which,I just did a little trial and error on mine.And yes the search I did was on here.I tried to post the pics from origional post but it wouldent let me do it.

 

Okay, THANKS for the info CL. I have printed it out and will go out after the race today and see what I can do on it. It kept me awake almost all night last night "thinking" on it. Frustrating. IF something like what you say doesn't fix it, I am tempted to try to find an old points distributor and install that and really simplify things.

Jim.
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If the light blinks, that means the ignition module is firing the coil, so your ignition module and distributor are in working order. I'm a little confused as to the status - is the problem that it cranks, but just doesn't fire? Has it stopped cranking once you release the key?

 

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FMC400 I haven't been back out to the garage yet from last night. The NASCAR race is done and I have been looking up on search about this system and printing out schematics and pages pertaining some to MY problem, though haven't found my exact problem as yet. But at least NOW I have a proper schematic for my system and also now know what the differences are between the different years.

My BIG problem has been that it does NOT stop cranking when I release the key, nor will it stop cranking when I shut the key OFF. IT just keeps cranking until I can get the battery cable taken off the battery... When I go out there now, I am going to take the two wires I ran, one for the coil and one for the ign module and see IF that makes a difference. It should. Then I am going to take my newly found schematics and trace my wires all down and see what I come up with.

I do NOT have a resistor wire at the ignition, as like I said this whole setup is in a 1955 F250 cab/clip sitting on a 75 4x4 F150 chassis. But the engine, tranny and steering and brake pedals came out of a 79 F150. So a conglomeration of parts. However should still work IF done right.

I should point out, that I have an Accel external ballast resistor out on the fender well. I didn't have any specs at the time that were exacting so I got a 1.35 ohm resistor. NOW I see that was the resistance used in the 1976 Models. But I imagine that should still be okay, as long as I don't go to the .060" plug gap. I think they said .045" gap for that much resistance. I am not concerned about longer plug life as this will probably last the rest of MY life as it won't be put on the road, except when I plow by the mailbox. It is a "Yard Horse".

But no, it does not start either. Just fired a few times altogether. So once I figure out WHY it keeps cranking and correct that, then I can graduate to getting it running.

Will get back here later tonight when I find something out.

Jim.
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Hi:
Sorry about taking so long to getr back here but a piece of spyware got into my computer this evening and is still giving me trouble. Hope I can get this sent this time. I lost what I wrote earlier.

I went back out to the garage and disconnected both small wires coming from the Solonoid to the Ign coil and ballast resistor. Just kept the one wire on coming from the switch it self to the START terminal on the solonoid. Then I tried to start it and it turned over fine, but of course didn't fire. It ALSO shut OFF when I turned it off. Also it went out of the start mode this time when I put the key back to the ON position. So that part seems okay.

Then I started tracing the wires back from the solonoid to the ignition module and also to the ballast resistor. At that point I noticed that the red and white wires coming out of the ignition Module go to the connector okay, but the male to female connectors have the reds and whites on different terminals. Is THAT supposed to be? Don't seem right to me.

So I quit on it till I hear back from someone on that point.

Jim.
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Okay, guys, I think I found at least ONE of my problems. I found a couple more schematics and one of them was for putting the Duraspark into older vehicles. Then I traced everything down that I had done before, and found I had two wires coming out of the ignition module switched where they go out the other side of the connector. I am so used to red going with red and white with white and black with black and green with green so that is what I did. But where the TWO PRONG connector comes out of the Module it changes from white on one side to red with blue strip and the red changes to a white wire. So I switched those two around and that stopped the running on of the starter once the key is brought back to run or off.

NOW while it turns good it won't start. Once in awhile it will fire a time or two at idle, but not too often. I guess I will go and buy a can of starting fluid tomorrow and see what happens there before I go any further. In case it is a gas problem. Could be the carb needs a total rebuilding. Don't know, it has sat for many years. New gas tank and lines though. ANd fuel pump pumps gas.

Thanks for all your efforts, so far;
Jim.
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