Really need some help here bad !!!
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 274
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From: Seattle, WA
Really need some help here bad !!!
I am having a weird problem with my HPOP reservoir I had this problem about a month and half ago then it ran fine till today. The problem is the HPOP reservoir will drain down an not fill back up so it shuts the injectors down and kills the engine. I can take the inspection cap off and fill it and it will run for about 5-7 min. then die. The oil only has about 3000 mi on it (about a qt. low)filled it up, its getting fuel about 75 psi, fuel is clean. the IPS is new, CPS is new( tach moves when cranking). I was wondering if something might be floating around in the oil??? maybe plugging off the check valve ( to stop bleed back???) if I take and hook up air pressure to the HPOP and try to blow it clean will that work ( with low air pressure) I am going to drain the oil and change it on Sunday and maybe see if something is floating around in the oil. Is there some sensor that controls the HPOP reservoir level???????
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,799
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Well last I checked the lpop fed the hpop res an I guess there is a common issue with the pick up tube cracking and leaking it all out, you really think blowing air into the res will do anything? Lolnothing can be pluged on the inside, if anything the pick up tube would be clogged
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
Likes: 39
I am having a weird problem with my HPOP reservoir I had this problem about a month and half ago then it ran fine till today. The problem is the HPOP reservoir will drain down an not fill back up so it shuts the injectors down and kills the engine. I can take the inspection cap off and fill it and it will run for about 5-7 min. then die. The oil only has about 3000 mi on it (about a qt. low)filled it up, its getting fuel about 75 psi, fuel is clean. the IPS is new, CPS is new( tach moves when cranking). I was wondering if something might be floating around in the oil??? maybe plugging off the check valve ( to stop bleed back???) if I take and hook up air pressure to the HPOP and try to blow it clean will that work ( with low air pressure) I am going to drain the oil and change it on Sunday and maybe see if something is floating around in the oil. Is there some sensor that controls the HPOP reservoir level???????
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 274
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From: Seattle, WA
The problem seemed like it went away the first time when I did change the injector O- rings. Today I changed oil and put a new filter on, but as the oil was out checked inside the oil pan for sludge or something floating around in it ( with a bent over pipe cleaner and scrapping around in the pan through the drain plug hole) everything looked clean. I put it all back together and ran fine for over an hour idling then died again then it would run a bout 5 min, then die. The problem has not come on gradually it was fine then like a switch, a problem occurs.
My question now could it be something with IPR?? If the IPR is going bad what are some of the signs???? before the problem it would have an erratic idle form normal to a lope like its cammed ( randomly) and a few times it died coming off cruise speed when I pushed in the clutch but would start right back letting the clutch out. This was with the tunner and without.
I am thinking it can't be crack in the pick up tube because it is so random
My question now could it be something with IPR?? If the IPR is going bad what are some of the signs???? before the problem it would have an erratic idle form normal to a lope like its cammed ( randomly) and a few times it died coming off cruise speed when I pushed in the clutch but would start right back letting the clutch out. This was with the tunner and without.
I am thinking it can't be crack in the pick up tube because it is so random
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: West Texas
I am starting to have this problem on my 94 also. Not to the point of dying yet but the other symptoms are the same.
Also I am losing oil pressure. I made sure my gauge was reading right with a mechanical gauge screwed into the resovoir. Now as my engine warms up the oil pressure goes down. Down to the N on the gauge where it normally sits in the middle or slightly above. I think this is the reservoir draining down.
Same idle problem as you. Runs fine on the highway but when I come to a stop and engine is warmed up it lopes pretty noticeably. And it comes and goes while I'm sitting there. Perfect idle, bad idle, like a switch is being thrown. I already swapped out the IPR o rings and swapped the ICP with a known good one. Injector o rings are new too.
I have to pull the oil cooler to swap with another one that I just rebuilt due to a coolant leak but should I pull the engine and the pan to check the pickup tube? I did the test on it and no change but I don't know.
What else could it be besides the pump or pickup?
Also I am losing oil pressure. I made sure my gauge was reading right with a mechanical gauge screwed into the resovoir. Now as my engine warms up the oil pressure goes down. Down to the N on the gauge where it normally sits in the middle or slightly above. I think this is the reservoir draining down.
Same idle problem as you. Runs fine on the highway but when I come to a stop and engine is warmed up it lopes pretty noticeably. And it comes and goes while I'm sitting there. Perfect idle, bad idle, like a switch is being thrown. I already swapped out the IPR o rings and swapped the ICP with a known good one. Injector o rings are new too.
I have to pull the oil cooler to swap with another one that I just rebuilt due to a coolant leak but should I pull the engine and the pan to check the pickup tube? I did the test on it and no change but I don't know.
What else could it be besides the pump or pickup?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
What year is your truck? I was under the impression that on all the OBS trucks, the "gauge" was just an "idiot light with a needle", that is, it pegs right to a pre-determined spot in the "NORMAL" range (usu. R or M) when it has "enough" oil pressure, and drops all the way left when it doesn't. IOW, not a true gauge, the needle only has two possible positions. Our two '95s are this way. But maybe they put an actual variable sending unit in later years.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 274
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From: Seattle, WA
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: AUSTIN TX
didn't 94 have a drain back problem setting over night, and later models have a check valve on the ihop.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 44
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From: Moyock, NC
The lpop is easy to change and less than $90. Sounds like there is a lil too much clearance between the pump gears allowing the oil to flow back into the sump from the hpop. Also as the oil heats up and thins out, it is harder if not impossible for the lpop to squeeze the oil and produce the volume needed to keep the hpop full. The lpop is on the outside of the motor on the crank behind the dampner. One of the easiest oil pumps to get to...
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 274
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From: Seattle, WA
I thought the LPOP was in the oil pan like a gasser, WOW what a relief I was absolutely dreading pulling the motor to change it. because of the zero clearance of the oil pan to frame. That info really changed my mind about putting a grenade up the tailpipe of the truck.
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 44
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From: Moyock, NC
I know what you mean. I bought a 94.5 that didnt run for less than 2 grand for my son. Had pretty much the same problem. If I could keep the hpop full, it would run. Picked up the melling oil pump from advance auto along with the loaner tool to remove the front pulley. Within an hour it was running fine. The way I determined it was the lpop was by putting a mechanical gauge where the oil pressure sensor is on the hpop. While cranking it wouldn't move. Change the lpop and the needle jumped then it fired up.
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Moyock, NC
Sorry... The hpop reservoir.... on the left (passenger side) is the oil pressure sending unit (it has a single wire going to it). It is screwed in directly on top of the reservoir and to the left of the plug you pull to check the level of the hpop. Pull that sending unit out and replace it with a gauge.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 274
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From: Seattle, WA
Today I installed a temporary LPOP and I started it cold and it had about 36 psi of oil pressure and as I let it warm up ( idling only) the pressure dropped very slowly to about 18-19 psi when it died again almost exactly 1 hour of straight idling. I would like to know what is the normal psi range or is my LPOP just shot. 2nd question if it is bad what is a good brand of LPOP to put in?? I will be putting stage II's in soon and I was wondering if there is a good LPOP To better help the HPOP for the stage II's or does it really matter?
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 44
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From: Moyock, NC
IIRC 6psi is the minimum for the gauge to read in the dash. Should be in the 30-50 range. Here is what you need to do.. When it dies, don't crank it anymore. Check the level in the hpop. It should be close to the top. If it is empty, then maybe your lpop can't push the thinned out heated up oil. Have you tried changing your oil?? If the hpop is full, then the lpop is fine. I would lean towards IPR valve. Usually the orings go bad and when it heats up it won't restart until it cools off. If they are really gone, then it wont start at all.