are disk brakes possible on closed knuckle dana 44?
#1
#3
I really don't have an answer to your question, because I don't know if it's been done. Having said that, unless you're trying to keep the truck original (which adding disc brakes is not), then going to an open knuckle dana 44 or 60 that already has disc brakes is the better and easier way to go. For one thing you get a better turning radius with an open knuckle setup. The open knuckle axles are pretty plentiful. There's also the ease of finding parts for them as opposed to the earlier axles. And they're stronger.
Just food for thought.
Just food for thought.
#5
Here's a post by someone that put disc brakes on a closed-knuckle Dodge Dana 44:
drum to disc swap on closed knuckle front - IH ONLY NORTH
He's also posted on the Dodge Sweptline site:
Sweptline.ORG • View topic - 1968 W300 Disc brake conversion
drum to disc swap on closed knuckle front - IH ONLY NORTH
He's also posted on the Dodge Sweptline site:
Sweptline.ORG • View topic - 1968 W300 Disc brake conversion
#6
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#8
welding to D44 closed knuckles
#9
No problem you might try checking with Garbz he is a wealth of knowledge on this subject. If not I hope you live near a large city so you can find someone easily to do the kind of welding you need. I had trouble in a fairly large city like Spokane just finding someone to heat and bend a shift tower on a 65 NP 435. It might be worth it to pay the money just to beat the agrivation factor.
Sorry about the rant and thread hijack. Oh and for now Im staying with drum brakes on my dana 44s. As long as the brakes are adjusted up an all rubber lines are properly flowing the stopping power seems to be fine. Good luck.
Sorry about the rant and thread hijack. Oh and for now Im staying with drum brakes on my dana 44s. As long as the brakes are adjusted up an all rubber lines are properly flowing the stopping power seems to be fine. Good luck.
#10
Hi Jim, do you have any experince or knowledge to pass on about welding brackets onto a dana 44 closed knuckle? I googled it and it can be done with nickel rod on a stick welder. Preheating in a BBQ with charcoal, peening with a chip hammer, and returning to the grill for slow cooling seem to be the concensus. Some have just welded with the parts at room temp successfully. Anyone with direct experience? FTE is a great resource! Thanx Kent
#12
Blackbird brackets
Thanks guys for all the input! Blackbird has just brackets for 140 and I have all the other bits. Resesarch about welding to cast iron didn't sell me on safety. I live in the Rockies and steering failure would be BAD! I can wait a little longer to get the brackets instead of driving into a boulder or off a cliff. Thanks for the sane ideas, Kent
#14
Thanks guys for all the input! Blackbird has just brackets for 140 and I have all the other bits. Resesarch about welding to cast iron didn't sell me on safety. I live in the Rockies and steering failure would be BAD! I can wait a little longer to get the brackets instead of driving into a boulder or off a cliff. Thanks for the sane ideas, Kent
#15
closed knuckle disc brakes
Just got back from th UPAP with a set of suburbanite backing plates. I got that bit from the sweptside article. They bolt right up to the disc spindles I got and don't interfere with the hub or rotor. They do need about a 1/2" more of backset to fit the caliper to the rotor properly but that is all steel and I can bolt or weld a spacer in between to modify it. Way better concept than welding to a cast knuckle. Glad you guys are here to guide a "knucklehead" like me to reason and away from disaster. Blackbird's kit for closed knuckle is $535, the $140 brackets only fit a open knuckle drum.