I finished fabricating the caliper mounts and the bolt up nicely. I made them using front backing plates from a burban and a set of weld on caliper mounts. The mounts were $40 and the backing plates were $7 each from upap. I did have to plasma cut the backer down to fit inside a 87 Ford rotor. I bolted the new mount together with the backer and tacked them. I the cut off the bolt hole and extra steel from the backer to clear the brake pads and finished the welding. Engine primer and paint completed the task. Hopefully this helps some other knucklehead in search of disc brakes for their closed knuckle 44.

 

Pictures Please

 

HI

The frame is a 62 F100 4x4. Is that a Dana 44? Years ago I set her up with disk brakes.

I don't have all the numbers in front of me but will be pulling that folder out soon. I cut a adaptor ring and had it machined to bolt onto the knuckle and then accept the hub onto it. From there it was a simple, so to speak, matter for collecting the caliper mounting bracket, dust shield, rotor and caliper. Everything bolts up, NO welding.

Best of all, ALL factory Ford parts. And with a little clearance of the top of the caliper even the stock rims fit without issue.

For now I think I used 77 F100 parts. I will go looking for the folder....

Edit: I found the folder but didn't note the yr of the donor parts. They are on another list.

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I don't have a digital camera but I'll try and borrow one or scan regular pictures. Here is a better description though. I got a pair of suburban front backing plates that have the same 6 bolt pattern as the closed knuckle. I plasma cut the backer at a 8" diameter but left tabs were the caliper bolts mount. This diameter allows the backer to clear the rotor and hub from a 87 TTB Dana 44. I cut a set of weld on caliper mounts for a Ford 9" rear disc conversion to clear the knuckle as they will be fit behind the modified backer. I think I got my weld ons from Blue Flame Fabrication, there are several shops that make these or one could be made in the garage. I bolted the 3/8" thick weld on to the rear of the modified backer so the holes are oriented properly to the rest of the bracket and clamped for some tack welding. With the pieces tacked I set a bake pad on as a guide of how much more of the backer to cut off to clear the pad. I cut off the tabs with the treaded holes for the caliper as the weld on one is behind it. I next completed the welding for strength. Welding the bracket on the back of the backing plate allows for a factory knuckle mount and proper backset of the caliper to the rotor. The calipers are from a 82 3/4 ton chebby and are easy to source. I pieced all this together from hours of google searching and an article about welding the bracket directly onto the knuckle. Google research and engineer friends also convinced me that welding to cast iron knuckles is a BAD BAD BAD idea. Fabricating a welded bolt on bracket is a manageable project that won't end in catastrophy. FTE rocks, thank you to all for their input on this. Kent

 

I finally finished the disc brake conversion job on my 71 F250. Some minor grinding for clearance of the rotor in one spot and the brake pad in another was needed. I also had to shorten the fill plug on the knuckle to clear the caliper. The spindles from a 82 Chebby are about 1/8" longer than the ford ones so I needed to remove some material on the ends of those as well. There was still more than enough thread to allow both spindle nuts to secure the hub and more. Installed a power steering box and pump while I was at it. I have pictures of the bracket, caliper, and install steps I just don't know how to import them to the thread. If someone can tell me how to post them I'd be happy to share them.

 

I was not sure how to get pics posted but they are in garage now

 

Somebody will chime in on how to post pics.

 

Hi 72 and everyone, got the pictures posted in my garage under BEAST. There are also some pics of the engine changes and power steering modification. This is a totally managable project that uses readily available junkyard parts, a welder, and some gumption. Thank you to all who advised against welding to cast knuckles! Just like Nancy said "just say NO" FTE rocks!

 

does anyone know it either a high and low pinion differential can be used in a 65 f 250 4 x 4?, thanks guys

 

"Low Pinion" Dana closed knuckle 44 is what came as stock in the 65 F250, I am almost certain, 64 for sure. My 64 F250 has low pinion Dana 60 rear and low pinion Dana 44 front. I don't think the "High Pinion" came out until...76? or 77? But, yes, these have been used in 65 models and in fact are favored. Someone else correct me if Im wrong so Paul gets good info. Good luck...