well got the radio and speakers in.. fixed the brake lights but still no reverse lights... still not sure why...

 

Okay - let's run down the basics on that, 10-4?

I'm assuming you took off the reverse light lenses and removed the bulbs. Also that when you did that you looked into the sockets to see if there was any rust in the bulb sockets (Too common a problem there - it's the very first thing I find out when a thing like this comes up. Rust conducts electricity to ground).

Brake lights operate from a brake light sender switch mounted on the top of the brake pedal assembly under the dash, a lot of things can go wrong there.

The switch can be bad, stuck, broken, or not aligned right with the pedal itself. So the first thing to do is get under the dash (if all the above is done) and eye-ball inspect that thing.

Next check it with a meter set to the lowest ohms scale.
When the pedal is not moved, it should read open (infinite).
When the pedal is pushed down, the switch should connect (reading zero - or shorted).

Another thing to look at under there is if the switch is getting 12 volts to it. Read the connecting wires - one of them must be a 12 volt feed. Do this both with the key in the run position, and OFF.

If NEITHER ONE of the wires to the switch has 12V, it isn't getting power - and a blown fuse may be the cause.

If one of the wires has 12V, and the switch is good, THAT means the problem is between the switch and the backup lights farther along the wiring harness.

THIS SHOULD AT LEAST TELL YOU IF THE PROBLEM IS UPHILL OR DOWN FROM THE BRAKE SWITCH.

But if there is a blown fuse - you have to ask yourself: "why?"
A bad fuse sets up a completely different set of circumstances -
Is there a short in the wires in one direction or the other?

At this point I find myself "Jonesing" for a lighting wire diagram for this machine...

But I will tell you this - If you find a blown fuse, replace it, and it blows right away without the brake pedal being touched: The problem is between the fuse and the brakelight switch.

If you find a blown fuse, replace it, it works, and continues to work... That truck may have been used to pull a van that had bad wiring.

If you find a bad fuse, replace it, it is good until the pedal is pushed: The problem is in the truck - somewhere between the brake switch and the lights.

At this point you need to also know where every single one of your fuse panels are, and what each fuse is for.

Simple enough? Even a trucker could do it? Yeah?
Go step by step, and I bet you find it.

At my own end of the street, I'm working on plumbing issues.
A bad flush valve costing me water money in one bathroom, and a plugged hot water valve line in the master bath. So I have one bathroom without a working toilet - but in the other I have a working shower.

I consider it my "Morning Commute"...

Damn BALL VALVE came without the right seal too!

I think I'm going to renovate both of those rooms.

"It's good to have enough tools and knowlege so that you don't have to pay outrageous labor prices for half-a55ed repair work..."

Who cares more about your house? YOU, or some clown that just got hired yesterday...

(There are plumbers I know of who should be dropped down an old well. Food for thought...)

 

yeah fuse #5 for the reverse lights is fine cause the turn signals work as well. but im down to either a bad ground on the reverse lights or bad reverse light switch. i fixed the brake lights.

 

That tells me it isn't a short - so you need to look at how far down the line power is going. One point after another, look for 12 volts with the pedal down.

But it could still be a bad brake switch.

Take a hard look at the ground lines on each light. I'd be suprised if they each didn't have their own ground right next to them. If they don't - DO THAT!

The best way to give lights a good ground is to use a self-tapping screw to put a ground point right next to each of them. Never rely on chassis grounds, but tie them in as well. That way your chassis grounds have more chances of working.

We can whip this! I guarantee ya.

 

my brake lights are fixed. its my reverse lights. im betting on the reverse switch thats mounted on the tranny.

 

OOPS!

Yeah - I think so too.

Same rules apply (But you have to switch it in and out of reverse to check it)

 

yep i know. i was.

 

Just got back a little while from Atlanta from a open house at Atlanta Wheel an tire today hauling some product back for the father inlaws tire and wheel shop

 

I bet that was fun to load and unload.

I like the SLAM profile tires.....

Quote me a price!

What rims do they fit?

 

Been a busy month at work so far....but I DID get to take my truck for a short drive today! Some gas and a good washin'...now she's happy!

 

I can get what you want I can probably get it and what do you want it for? Those were some 22s and 24s

 

I can get what you want I can probably get it and what do you want it for? Those were some 22s and 24s

 

I need to think ahead of the game for some options on "G-II" or "G-III".

G-II is a 1/4 ton ranger (Late 89) that will probably get a newer cab, but will have a Ranger frame under it. The long range plan for G-III is to use an Explorer chassis, and make it four wheel drive capable, but also with a Ranger cab and bed.

BOTH projects call for wide tire tread, as close to stock tire height as possible (I would only want to go maybe 2" taller max), extreme narrow sidewalls, and the offset in the rims will be a bit of a concern.

Alloy rims of course...

With an explorer L/S axle under G-II, I have an extra inch on each side to play with, the explorer axles are 2" wider than the stock ranger units.

I'm also kinda interested in returning G-I to its stock tire height and tread width, but also with very narrow sidewalls on alloys. Rubber weighs more than alloy rims, and the key to speed AND mileage is to cut down unsprung weight and centripetal mass.

G-I is the grocery getter...

Right now it has Kumho 225/50/15's front, and Eagle GT-II 235/60/15's rear - which is great in dry weather, but let it rain and watch the fun! It's a little bitty four banger, but on the back roads around here I decided I needed the extra grip.

I also have a pair of mastercraft 245/60/15's on standby. I noticed they slip a lot more than the goodyears...

So far all of this is on chromed steel "Wagon Wheel" rims, so they are a lot heavier than they should be.

I'm pretty sure Explorer axles are all 5 on 4 1/2 bolt circles - I stood up the G-II chassis I'm working with using the original G-I rims and tires.

The reason for long range rim and tire planning for G-II and G-III is that both of these trucks will have some version of WINDSOR engine driving them... Hell, I thought about HOOSIER tires for G-III (seriously). I expect it to have every bit that wild a power to weight ratio.

 

Worked in the yard all weekend after getting the baby washed.

 

Good Afternoon All.....