were can you get a clutch for it like the one that came from the factory? An I looked at the trans when I was under it helping take off the starter an it looked like it had 8 bolts for it. A guy I called bout rebuilding the trans asked me what kind of trans it was an I told him it was a 4 speed manual with granny gear with tow package. How many different 4 speed manual trans are there?

 

An in 96 the guy who bought it from the guy in CA had this done to it:

installed used rear axle assembly & Gear oil
Tune up
Clutch Pak
Clutch Problem (Shot)
R+R Clutch, Plate & Brng

Road Test: Tranny Very Worn (start looking) Lube Full
Flywheel OK at this time
Note: Water in fuel
Install rear brake hose

So could someone had tried to tow something more than what it could handle for the rear axle assembly to be replaced. An if so could the engine be hurt?

 

There are only 4 bolts holding the tranny to the bell housing. There is several 4spds 435, T18or T19 yours will be the 435 or possibly the T18. Any parts house should be able to get you a clutch kit. I used one from autozone one time only in a 4X4 and even though their waurranty was good and they never balked, I changed it 4 times before I finally bought a new one fron I belive advanced auto That is still in there. This was years ago and their stuff may have improved though.

 

Way more likely ran it low on oil so the tranny may not have been maintained either but neither should affect the motor. Make sure your vents are open and check them once in awhile. this and bad ujoints are the main causes for oil leaks on the tranny and diff.

 

it is leaking some oil now but I dont know if it is were we had it running when we put it in the building & the oil got hot & its probably just thinned out over time. had a honda that had Penz. Syn. in it an it went 7K miles an it lost a quart an a half of oil & the oil was thinned out real bad.

 

Ok, well looking at the list of things that the guy had done, here's what I've got for ya...

1.) Tune up- This is standard Op for any vehicle that is getting other work done. Not always a bad idea, but always a way to make an extra buck.

2.) Clutch pak - This really doesn't make much sense. I assume that this means that the clutch was replaced. It lines up with some of the other notations that they have here.

3.) Clutch problem(shot) - Again I'm hoping that this was a diagnosis before the clutch was replaced. It's placement in the list means that it came after the clutch pak, which is why clutch pak doesn't make much sense.

4.) R+R clutch, plate and BRNG - This means REMOVED and REPLACED clutch disk, pressure plate, and throwout Bearing. So based on this the clutch was replaced already, and therefore either the new clutch failed or it was installed incorrectly.

5.) Road test Tranny very worn (start looking) - This means what it means. They put a new clutch in it and thought that the tranny was on the way out, even though the fluid was full in it. "very worn" can mean a lot of things, but I think that what the others are saying is up there, it sounds like the problems that you are having are clutch related, and not very expensive.

6.) Flywheel OK at this time - This means that they did not resurface the flywheel when they replaced the clutch, and that the new clutch didn't chatter after the road test, so they felt that it didn't need resurfacing. Not recommended procedure, but plenty of people do it.

7.) Note Water in fuel - You might want to run some "Heat" or other type of water removing agent in the fuel to get this water out. It can make the truck run like poo.

8.) Replaced rear brake hose - probably just a rotten hose, but might want to check the other ones to make sure that they aren't rotten by now.


Overall I'm with the other guys that said adjustment, but looking what the mechanic friend of yours said I'm thinking that the clutch fork slipped off of the throwout bearing and is no longer disengaging the clutch, or just that he isn't that familiar with this particular setup and didn't see the pressure plate where he is used to seeing it. An old truck clutch like this should be a lot harder to push on than a honda. The problems that you are talking about are classic "clutch not disengaging" issues. This combined with a recent clutch replacement per the work order you have means one of the following things:

1.) The clutch as fallen out of adjustment

2.) The recently replaced clutch had a fault in manufacturing (probably in the throwout bearing) or installation (didn't put the clutch fork on right) and needs to be set up again.

Going forward if this were my truck I'd pull the clutch, inspect the clutch material and see if the friction disk is really worn. If it's not and there aren't any cracks in the pressure plate or the flywheel then I'd put it back together with a new throwout bearing (they're inexpensive) and make sure that the clutch fork is clipped onto the throwout bearing right. If after this you still can't get the clutch to disengage I'd pull the whole thing and put a clutch in from autozone, advance, or O'reilly or buy a hays Truck clutch from summit or Jegs. I like the hays for a little more towing capability and durability. It's about $350; don't know about what the local guys cost.

If after you get the clutch working the trans makes a lot of bearing noise, won't get into gear (after linkage adjustment) or the Synchros don't work, I'd look at a trans rebuild. I know that I'm telling you to drop the trans a couple times, but on these trucks it's stupid easy. You don't even need to lift the truck and put it on jack stands.

 

advance said they had a 3 point clutch for $120 an its a heavy duty one so what would be a good one to buy? an got the sheet from Ford an they say its a Warner T18 4 speed with 3.73 Limited Slip but what does the 7.50 X 16 - 10TT Tires mean?

 

A good place to buy a clutch kit is Carolina Clutch 1-888-462-2739 They carry LuK clutchs who was a supplier for Ford. They ship quick and have good prices.

 

hey there I am doing a rebuild in my 79 f350, it has a np435, check it ot on my page, I tore it down and took step by step pics, and am in the process of painting the case and getting a rebuild kit, but take a look and will give you an Idea of what is involved, any ques just holler

 

hey there it seems like an easy trans to rebuild, I took mine apart and took step by step pics of everything parts are on the way in so hopefully in a month will start documenting putting it back together, look on my profile for the disassambly pics to see what your getting yourself into

 

nice to see another WV guy on here I'm from up by morgantown. My brother has a 4 speed out of his truck, I think it was behind a 351, not sure if it would fit yours but it was fine when he pulled it and its just been sitting for a while since we run nothing but auto's.

 

So I have a 77 f150 4 speed manual trans. When I go to take off its shakes real bad when I let the clutch out and gets smooth after its rolling. It shakes when I let the clutch out after switching gears and when it gets done shaking after releasing the clutch to shift it drops pretty hard like I dumped it but I don't just drop it. I've owned 4 vehicles with manual trans (88 f150 5 speed, 94 ranger 5 speed, 01 and 03 vw jetta 5 speed) and never had any clutch issues ever. What could it be? I'm thinking about a rebuild but wanted to ask some people that know more about these trans that I do.

 

If you check out my adventures in retirement thread you'll see a basic rebuild on a 435 that needed a 3/4 fork repair and 2nd gear synchro and spring replaced. I got my parts through greensalescompany.com and Americanpowertrain.com. It's an easy rebuild and you should have paint markers on you original gear parts to align everything up in order when you put it together. Hardest part were the retainer clips for the speedo gear and rear bearing.


PS. it started in November and ended end of december as I had other tings that I was doing

 

i have had an experience with this problem before when replacing a clutch in a hurry as well as after dark I installed clutch plate backwards and everything bolted up but it will not go in gear with motor turning as well as not disengaging fully with clutch pedal to the floor as for a missing pressure plate I am sorry but it is not possible to supply power to the trans without without it as there will be no friction to engage the clutch plate

 

Does the member in post #25 have a NP435? All he says is 1977 F150 4 speed.

If this is 2WD, it could be also be a: RUG SR-OD Single Rail 4 Speed Overdrive, or Warner T-18.

If 4WD, it's the NP435.