Tried to start up my 85 f250 6.9l last night and the key didn't want to turn all the way and when I stupidly forced it, it naturally broke the lock cylinder. Im now trying to figure out how to rewire a push button ignition to bypass the lock cylinder. Can any body help me with the wire colors for this truck so I can sew this up. Also I imagine I will need a seperate switch to turn on other electrical components(pump, fuel shut off,etc..). my glow pugs are already seperate. Any advice on how to go about this would be appreciated, Thanks.

 

Depending what you broke you may be able to replace the broken parts.

Drop the steering column and check the ignition switch there will be a rod that goes into it the rod brakes and stops actuating the switch

I believe the part you will need is Ford part # E9TZ-3E715-B



I found it for about $10.00 with Google

 

Thanks Macman, I had read some other posts that said that taking apart the steering column was a headache and that special tools were needed so, thats why I was looking towards a simpler wiring fix,but maybe I should give that a shot first, and see how far I can get.

 

for a temp solution you can just hang the ignition switch and work it with a screw driver that would be a get by so you can drive your truck. I installed an aftermarket key switch in mine due to a other broken parts when i get home i can check the wires on mine. 85 - 86 there weren't many changes but there are 3 choices

3 choices
start - starter
run - IP and Heater/ac is on the run
Acc - Radio and lighter socket

I just don't remember the colors off hand
I believe the 2 yellow wires are both incoming power and i bonded them together to power the switch i am thinking of putting relays in to handle the Heater/ ac motor to take some of the load off the new switch.

 

Your right I figured out that one of the oranges has 12v s coming in on it but I went through trying to individually connect the other seven wires to it in hopes that one would start up the truck, none of them did. I had to start the truck off the starter solenoid with a screwdriver to get it home. I'm going to play around with the wires for a little bit right now and see what I can figure out. Thanks again, will keep you updated.

 

Instead of a button and toggle you could put an aftermarket ignition switch in the dash just like in the old days ...

This might help a bit ...
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...528004bb08.gif

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/sw...4_ignition.gif

I think these can help ... Always verify wire colors and routing before cutting tho ... Just to be sure ...

 

Start wire is light blue with a red stripe.

 

This is all great help, thanks to everyone for their time. I'm beginning to think to think someone may have redone the wiring at some point because as Ive gone through now all the colors seems to be different than the wiring diagram posted (Im also terrible at reading those). from what I can see
green/white and green/red are my left turn signals
orange/blue and white/blue are the right turn signals
light blue seems to be the blower
yellow w/ blue is cruise control???
navy blue horn
white/pink is hazards
light green???
black???
but apparently the lock cylinder broke in the off position because none of them are getting power, but the fuel pump/ lights and other things that I thought wouldn't be running seem to work fine. If I start the car off the starter relay under the hood and kill it by disconnecting the fuel shut off solenoid I can drive the truck just fine. Im afraid I will be getting in over my head to take apart the steering column but I may just need to do that sooner or later.

 

Wrong harness it sounds like you are looking at the turn signal connector the wires you are looking for terminate lower on the column. 2 bolts hold the switch on just pull it off and you can work it by hand.

 

I was thinking the same thing reading that post.

 

Well that explains alot, I'm going to go ahead and pull that off and see if I can get things going from there, will update. Thanks

 

2 nuts hold it on i believe 1/2"

 

No i think it is 7/16th cause i snapped the switch open the other day

 

yup...7/16", replace one last night....its on the upper left side of the column...my switch snapped in half (the plastic seperated from the metal casing...so I built a manual "hotwire kit" that plugged into the socket...worked great

 

Ive decided rewiring all of this is going to be to much of a headache so I rented a steering wheel puller and bought a new lock cyl and actuator, and Im going to try go through the process tomorrow. Anyone know the order of operations for pulling the wheel off hand, or is it pretty self explanatory??