A) Contact Corrosion

That issue is widespread, and in my case, I found that issue on contacts INSIDE the vehicle and not just contacts exposed to the elements.

Ford makes no recommendation known to me for greasing contacts --- however, with my experience operating electronics in hostile environments, I routinely do so.

Choose a grease that are: dielectric; do not harm the plastic / rubber / insulation, and works.

I routinely do this for all contacts now... including the one on the audio system.

If you want to get real snazzy --- I use the dielectric grease used to mount heat sinks on electronics (e.g. microprocessor, or power transistors). It is expensive --- but boy, does it work great.


AN EARLIER VERSION OF THIS SHOWED A PRODUCT THAT IS NOT NECESSARILY DIELECTRIC.

ACCORDINGLY, IN ORDER TO ELIMINATE ALL CONFUSION --- THIS IS EDITED TO MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS NO MISTAKE.

USE THE FORD APPROVED DIELECTRIC GREASE --- HERE IS THE SPECS:


Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10)) or an equivalent silicone compound meeting Ford Specification ESE-M1C171-A.

Thanks for Cheezit for providing the data.




B) Wire chafing

Beyond those stated in TSBs, I routinely check every wire and connector.

Particularly, look for breaks at the crimps (where the wire terminates to a connector).

I also test select wires that are suspect or are absolutely critical.

e.g. field winding power wire to the alternator.

Do that before replacing the alternator....



C) FICM Testing

Consult the experts here for that.

You can tap the main power wire at the fuse box, rig up a wire / fuse bypass, and measure the power delivered there at the fuse level.

I use a clamp type (inductive) DC meter.

http://www.amazon.com/Extech-MA120-A...7031320&sr=8-1


D) "voltage draw"

Good for you, the missing word is "and current" so it should read voltage and current draw.


I have posted my test data measured at the main power supply. I am getting 9.7 volts at cranking.


Talk to the FICM pros here to determine what is the critical voltage level --- I would prefer to see nothing lower 9V except for very brief intervals.

 

Here is a silly question for you:

In order to do the work I am prescribing, you got to have the right tools.

Do you, or any of the "average user" have a Clamp type DC Ammeter / Volt / Ohm Meter?


They look like this:





Typically, can be had for $100 or so:

Amazon.com: Extech MA120 200 Ampere AC/DC Mini Clamp on Current Detector: Home Improvement



The reason a clamp type has to be used is typically, your cheap Volt / Ohm Meter can only measure very small DC currents.

The clamp type measure by inductance, and can handle amperage all the way up to... hundreds of amps (not starting current... )




What amaze me is to see the number of people on this site that are tossing $$$ thousands on tunes, mufflers, etc. when they wouldn't spend $100 on a cheap VOM.


Good quality ones cost maybe $300:

Amazon.com: Extech 380947 400 Ampere True RMS AC/DC Mini Clamp on Meter with High Current Resolution: Home Improvement

And will measure up to 400 amp in the above case --- i.e. close to 5KVa

That is, 5,000 watt -- which allows starting current draw to be measured on your average 6.0


Tell me who on this site have ever bothered to test their starting CURRENT draw as a way of testing their batteries?



Look at other issues:

I have had codes from turbo underboost, EGR voltage, MAP sensor, etc. and in ALL cases, I resolved it by simply resetting the code.

Now, when it gets warm (it is 15F outside today)..... I am going to go and refurbish every single sensor connector and TEST their connections.

I bet you most of my problems go away.


Co-incidentally, when parts replacement artists rush to throw in new parts, they unplug and replug in a new part, and in doing so, re-establish a good contact where there might be a flakey one....


How many perfectly good parts have been thrown out because of this?


Because not enough "average users" know and care enough or want to buy a basic Volt / Ohm Meter tool that is about as important as owning a ratchet to do diagnostics?

 

If I said I had one...
could I still claim to be average

 

mine's at 27 with koeo and buzz going, but 48 when no buzz. i thought it took 24v to fire the injectors?. how does it run at 20v?.i probably need to re-solder mine too.

 

You also have this Ford diagnostics computer in the bay....

 

which really helps quite a bit.

 

snazzy is not what you need when attempting to prevent environmental problems with automotive connectors. The contacts need to be protected from corrosion and sealed from water. It is very important to consider manufacturer intent for a product when using it for other then the intended application. I.E. thermal compounds are not a dielectric grease but a grease for aiding in thermal conduction. Where as the sole purpose of dielectric grease is to lubricate the rubber seals and plastic used in a connector. Most manufacturer recommend not allowing the dielectric grease to get on the contacts as it can act as an insulator especially in small connectors where the contacts don't offer enough tension to displace the grease.

As stated in the above wiki there can be further complications with applying thermal compounds in applications for which it is not intended, quote: "...It should also be noted that silver-based thermal grease can also be slightly electrically conductive. If excess were to flow onto the circuits, it could cause a short circuit.", further the wiki stated "...Over time, some thermal greases may set like glue and make it difficult to remove the heat sink."

I would think under normal circumstances that creating "short circuits" nor gluing the connectors together would be a desired condition.

 

Personally I used a Sperry DSA-540A clamp on, it can measures volts, resistance and DC/AC amps up to 400A, a very handy diagnostic tool for keeping your electrical system in top shape. And it's a bargin at $59 online or $79 from Menards.

Due to all the reported problems with the FICM and out of my own curiousity, I purchased an so called bad FICM off ebay ( seller claimed P0611 code) in an attempt to see first hand what the issues were. Unfortunately when I received the FICM it worked properly in my truck.

Once again out of curiousity I disassembled the unit in an attempt to characterize the 48V converters performance limitations by itself under normal and extreme input voltages. The converter was powered up seperately from the CPU board. It was observered that the 48V DC to DC converter can under low voltage generate 46V (normal operating spec is min 45V) from just an input of 6.5V. Note that at that low of a voltage it will draw 45amps from the power source. While I ran it under those conditions(low voltage , high current draw) for a time period equal to that of a normal cold glow plug cycle, none of the components appeared to over heat on a properly functioning unit. After randomly selecting two other FICM, no soldering issues were found other then the small amount of solder originally used on the power components. There was a fourth unit in another truck which ran OK but exhibited an unsteady 48V (bouncing between 46.9 to 48.4 V)during the glow plug heating cycle. This unit still remains to be inspected.

Based on the several units I've inspected the design appears to be some what robust.

 

This poster has repeatedly posted false and misleading information.

My specific recommendation is "dielectric thermal compound".

The poster refers to a range of thermal compounds that are specifically conductive.


The poster have previously advised using Oxy-Gard on Ford Truck Connectors and contacts, which WILL SHORT CIRCUIT ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS IF USED.

THERE IS NOW A WARNING MESSAGE ABOUT NEVER USING OXY-GARD AS SUGGESTED BY THIS POSTER ON MY "ELECTRICAL BUG FIX" LINK BELOW.


BEWARE

 

you warrning message's really cut down on my profits when they right bahhh.

 

As stated in the above wiki there can be further complications with applying thermal compounds in applications for which it is not intended, quote wiki: "...It should also be noted that silver-based thermal grease can also be slightly electrically conductive. If excess were to flow onto the circuits, it could cause a short circuit.", further the wiki stated "...Over time, some thermal greases may set like glue and make it difficult to remove the heat sink."


this poster publishes information which can result in short circuits and potential of glueing connectors. The posters above link to a newegg product makes reference to a silver filler thermal grease product which the wikipedia articel stated "...It should also be noted that silver-based thermal grease can also be slightly electrically conductive. If excess were to flow onto the circuits, it could cause a short circuit.", "MASSCOOL Stars-700 Silver thermal grease " as this poster would want you to use is not listed as a dielectric grease but a "silver thermal grease".

This poster has in the past and continues to repeatedly posted false and misleading information both on an information bases and also in intentionally mis-stating my posts.

This poster fails to support by any manufacturer recommendations why he personally objects to oxy-gard when used in accordance to manufacturers directions on "electrical conductors" up to and over 480V. This is what this product is specifically design for to avoid corrosion on electrical conductors.

 

Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10)) or an equivalent silicone compound meeting Ford Specification ESE-M1C171-A.

is the correct product to use.. now if the products you are listing meet the same then they would be ok to use as well.

 

Because of this thread, I will never try to fix an FICM myself,

















ever.

 

I would agree with you. An automotive dielectric grease is what should be used on the "seals" on an automotive connector but not the contacts of the connector. The intent of the grease is to improve on the sealing from water and lubrication of the connectors rubber seals. A dielectric grease is an electrical insulator, further on small connectors the contact tension is insufficient to displace the grease thereby could cause intermittant electical contact should the grease get on the contacts.

The heat sink thermal grease/compound refered to by gearloose1 in no way meets the Ford spec you quote nor that for a dielectirc grease. Its designed chemistry and use is TOTALLY different then that of a dielectirc grease.

 

Cheezit has spoken. That is the final word.