2000 f 150 5.4 L Headgasket Replacement
#1
2000 f 150 5.4 L Headgasket Replacement
I began having problems with headgasket, exhaust gas in coolant. I tried BARS and it worked for a while. The gasket "blew" the other day, lost at least one cylinder.
I want to keep the truck so I have to replace the head gaskets. At first I did not consider doing it myself but reading this board has given me the confidence I needed. I also see the support everyone gives each other, this is great. My plan, so far, is:
Take apart top of the engine
Have the cylinder heads re surfaced and re build
replace water pump
replace timing chains and tensioners
install new Head gaskets
put everything back together
I would appreciate any advice for the forum. If someone has done this job, any instructions would be appreciated. Anything else I should be looking at? any pictures? send them to me, kevinhennelly@comcast.net
Please advise.
Thanks in advance.
Kevin<!-- google_ad_section_end --><!-- / message -->
I want to keep the truck so I have to replace the head gaskets. At first I did not consider doing it myself but reading this board has given me the confidence I needed. I also see the support everyone gives each other, this is great. My plan, so far, is:
Take apart top of the engine
Have the cylinder heads re surfaced and re build
replace water pump
replace timing chains and tensioners
install new Head gaskets
put everything back together
I would appreciate any advice for the forum. If someone has done this job, any instructions would be appreciated. Anything else I should be looking at? any pictures? send them to me, kevinhennelly@comcast.net
Please advise.
Thanks in advance.
Kevin<!-- google_ad_section_end --><!-- / message -->
#2
thats too bad kev... i can get you started with the manifold photo. this is as far as i had to go. take a close look at the gasket on the aluminum water manifold bolted to the bottom of the plastic intake--- bad area... take photos.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...d-on-5-4l.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...d-on-5-4l.html
#3
one thing that you will need is to get a set of head bolts they are torque to yield, so they are a one time use only
most books will tell you to pull the engine granted a head job is easier with the engine out but not everybody can pull the engine, you can pull the heads in the truck, the back bolts need to come out with the head I pull the two bolts up then wrap one rubber band around the two of them to squeeze them together and up( does that make sense it's kinda hard to explain)
most books will tell you to pull the engine granted a head job is easier with the engine out but not everybody can pull the engine, you can pull the heads in the truck, the back bolts need to come out with the head I pull the two bolts up then wrap one rubber band around the two of them to squeeze them together and up( does that make sense it's kinda hard to explain)
#4
#5
when I do them in the truck ( I hate pulling cabs) I will pull the radiator out also, the coolant has to be drained anyway, and it's only 4 bolts holding it in, also I will take the exhaust manifold off with the head, also when it goes back together use a dab of silicone and the joints so when the front cover goes back on a dab goes at the block and oil pan and the block and head, then the valve cover gets 2 dabs at the head and front cover seam
#6
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#8
when I remove the head I leave the exhaust maniflod bolted to it, it's easier to get the two bolts at the pipe the the 8 nuts on the side of the head,
the dab of silicone goes where ever there is a seam and a gasket, so before you put the front cover back on a dab goes on both sides where the block meets the oil pan, then 2 dab on each head where the head on block come together, then when you put the valve cover back on there will be 2 dabs on both side where the front cover and the head come together, don't get to hung up on it you'll see the silicone when you take it apart
the dab of silicone goes where ever there is a seam and a gasket, so before you put the front cover back on a dab goes on both sides where the block meets the oil pan, then 2 dab on each head where the head on block come together, then when you put the valve cover back on there will be 2 dabs on both side where the front cover and the head come together, don't get to hung up on it you'll see the silicone when you take it apart
#10
#14
Timing Cover Gasket now leaking
I successfully completed the head gasket repair last year thanks to everyones help. The truck runs real good, 205,000 miles and going strong.
The timing cover gasket is leaking right at the "intersection of the block, head and cover. I likely did not apply black sealant properly. It leaks 4 to 6 drops per night per side after being driven, this is not a continuous leak.
Any thoughts? Should I bite the bullet and go in and replace the gasket and re instal with proper seal? Any help, step by step? Photos ect? How involved?
Should I replace the water pump? Anything else?
Kevin
The timing cover gasket is leaking right at the "intersection of the block, head and cover. I likely did not apply black sealant properly. It leaks 4 to 6 drops per night per side after being driven, this is not a continuous leak.
Any thoughts? Should I bite the bullet and go in and replace the gasket and re instal with proper seal? Any help, step by step? Photos ect? How involved?
Should I replace the water pump? Anything else?
Kevin
#15
I need to do this repair shortly on my 2003 5.4L. I'm getting exhaust gasses/pressure and smell in the coolant resevoir/degas tank. All the instructions/manuals I've read indicate that you must evacuate the AC. For anyone that has done this - do you have to break apart any AC connections for head removal?
Thanks!!!
Thanks!!!