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2000 f 150 5.4 L Headgasket Replacement

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Old 02-15-2010, 05:47 PM
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2000 f 150 5.4 L Headgasket Replacement

I began having problems with headgasket, exhaust gas in coolant. I tried BARS and it worked for a while. The gasket "blew" the other day, lost at least one cylinder.

I want to keep the truck so I have to replace the head gaskets. At first I did not consider doing it myself but reading this board has given me the confidence I needed. I also see the support everyone gives each other, this is great. My plan, so far, is:

Take apart top of the engine
Have the cylinder heads re surfaced and re build
replace water pump
replace timing chains and tensioners
install new Head gaskets
put everything back together

I would appreciate any advice for the forum. If someone has done this job, any instructions would be appreciated. Anything else I should be looking at? any pictures? send them to me, kevinhennelly@comcast.net

Please advise.

Thanks in advance.
Kevin<!-- google_ad_section_end --><!-- / message -->
 
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Old 02-15-2010, 06:21 PM
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thats too bad kev... i can get you started with the manifold photo. this is as far as i had to go. take a close look at the gasket on the aluminum water manifold bolted to the bottom of the plastic intake--- bad area... take photos.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...d-on-5-4l.html
 
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Old 02-15-2010, 07:35 PM
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one thing that you will need is to get a set of head bolts they are torque to yield, so they are a one time use only

most books will tell you to pull the engine granted a head job is easier with the engine out but not everybody can pull the engine, you can pull the heads in the truck, the back bolts need to come out with the head I pull the two bolts up then wrap one rubber band around the two of them to squeeze them together and up( does that make sense it's kinda hard to explain)
 
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Old 02-15-2010, 07:43 PM
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Thanks for the help. I cannot pull the engine or lift the cab, I just do not have the facility. I was told by a guy at Ford they remove the Cab in 45 minutes, in the shop.

Keep the ideas coming, I like the rubber band idea, I understand what you mean.

Kevin
 
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Old 02-15-2010, 08:22 PM
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when I do them in the truck ( I hate pulling cabs) I will pull the radiator out also, the coolant has to be drained anyway, and it's only 4 bolts holding it in, also I will take the exhaust manifold off with the head, also when it goes back together use a dab of silicone and the joints so when the front cover goes back on a dab goes at the block and oil pan and the block and head, then the valve cover gets 2 dabs at the head and front cover seam
 
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:20 PM
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Good idea with the radiator, it will give me more room. Please explain, take the exhaust manifold off with the head. How would I do this? I thought it has to come of the head.

Also, please explain the silicone, Not sure I understand what you are saying here.
 
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:27 PM
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missfiring again

so you can do all of this with the engine still in the truck?
 
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:41 PM
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when I remove the head I leave the exhaust maniflod bolted to it, it's easier to get the two bolts at the pipe the the 8 nuts on the side of the head,

the dab of silicone goes where ever there is a seam and a gasket, so before you put the front cover back on a dab goes on both sides where the block meets the oil pan, then 2 dab on each head where the head on block come together, then when you put the valve cover back on there will be 2 dabs on both side where the front cover and the head come together, don't get to hung up on it you'll see the silicone when you take it apart
 
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by darkmage55
so you can do all of this with the engine still in the truck?
yes you can pull the heads with the engine in the truck
 
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:55 PM
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If I am going to have the heads re built then I need to remove the exhaust manifold correct? Are you saying to leave the exhaust manifold on and disconnect at the "flange", the 2 bolts?
 
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Old 02-15-2010, 10:10 PM
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yeah then once you have the head and manifold on the bench disconnect them
 
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Old 02-15-2010, 10:18 PM
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gotcha. How about the water pump, should I change it? Looks like the original, 2000 w/175k miles.
 
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Old 02-15-2010, 10:27 PM
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that's your call, I don't like to replace parts unless they are broke, it's easy to get to later but if your already there?
 
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:42 AM
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Timing Cover Gasket now leaking

I successfully completed the head gasket repair last year thanks to everyones help. The truck runs real good, 205,000 miles and going strong.

The timing cover gasket is leaking right at the "intersection of the block, head and cover. I likely did not apply black sealant properly. It leaks 4 to 6 drops per night per side after being driven, this is not a continuous leak.

Any thoughts? Should I bite the bullet and go in and replace the gasket and re instal with proper seal? Any help, step by step? Photos ect? How involved?

Should I replace the water pump? Anything else?

Kevin
 
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Old 02-06-2015, 03:28 PM
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I need to do this repair shortly on my 2003 5.4L. I'm getting exhaust gasses/pressure and smell in the coolant resevoir/degas tank. All the instructions/manuals I've read indicate that you must evacuate the AC. For anyone that has done this - do you have to break apart any AC connections for head removal?

Thanks!!!
 


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