Already searched/read about fuel pump relays...
2002 Explorer Sport 4.0L V6 2WD Automatic... 131,000 miles (recent EGR and spark plugs tune-up, running just fine)...

Scenario: ONLY when COLD (20'F or less), the fuel rail seems to not get presurized, so you cannot start the engine. spin spin spin the starter, but not run. (no its not the relay)

Replaced the fuel pump relay (in the fusebox) TWICE, and thought it fixed it TWICE, but weeks later same issue. Tried jiggling the connections, and electrical terminal cleaner, and scuffing the relay contact points... so it doesnt appear to be a bad connection to relay of any kind.

Temporary fix: Open the hood, open the fusebox cover, pull fuel pump relay, and HOT WIRE (jumper wire) pass the fuel pump relay. THAT WORKED (but only occasionally). Yeah, you hotwire it, and sometimes you can hear mild-soft sounds of solenoids engaging and buzzing, and fuel pump pressuring (pump fuel). Other times nope.
I learned to not just plug in the bypass jumper hotwire, but connect it on/off like a 5 year old playing with a doorbell on/off/on/on/on/off/on... !
THAT seems to make "something" activate, and then you can hear some solenoids and ligth buzzz, and next thing you know, fuel pump is pumping for the 2 seconds primer prior to engazing the starter. Install the relay, go inside the car, turn ignition to starter, and start car, and voila its running.

Pain in the @$$ to go thru this procedure, in all this cold weather. ONLY does it when its like 20'F or below. Once running, and rest of that day, can start/stop and drive 100 miles no issues.



ANY IDEAS??? How to test the PCM???
(possible bad fuel pump that is on its way out?)

 

One check for the PCM is whether or not the check engine light comes on with the other idiot lights when you turn the key to run.

If it does come on the PCM is powered up & you need to check for voltage at the inertia switch.

You should see 12 volts at the inertia switch for 2 seconds each time you turn the key to run.

Haveyou ever given the tank a good whack with your hand when the pump does'nt run? Sometimes that will get a flaky pump running again.

 

I agree with where 87 XLT is guiding you, verify voltage is heading to the fuel pump & consider a bad/weak pump.

-Rod

 

Thanks for the replies so far.
Yes I did verify the Inertia switch was not tripped. If you do trip it, fuel pump does not run. Reset it and get fuel pump to run. (Did not verify voltage, but did test that it runs yes/no).

Highly leads me to fuel pump going out.
Called local garage, and they stated pump is like $300+ cause of the monstrosity (pump/lines/fuel level gauge) unit, and labor is $300 installation.
I'll replace fuel pump in spring myself (done it in my supercharged 1989 Mustang).

Thanks again guys.

 

You might want to put a dab of "Dielectric Grease" on each electrical connection as you reassemble any part/component. This helps the connections to resist the effects of moisture corrosion and also makes it a little easier if you ever have to disassemble again.