11-18-2014, 04:52 PM
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How to Troubleshoot and Fix F150 4X4 1997-2003
#136
05-21-2018, 01:05 AM
4x4
I am posting this because it took me AGES to find this information and peice it together from many sources all over the internet. From a girl who knew NOTHING about these systems a few weeks ago - here is a quick and easy guide to troubleshooting your 4X4 problems -- mostly for Manual shift on the floor (MSOF) systems or what goes on mechanically after you press the button on the electronic systems. All you need for these tests is a friend, and a socket set.
The 4X4 works with two systems - the shifter on the floor manually engages the transfer case. It also causes a relay to ground one of two solenoids that cause vacuum lines to activate an actuator which engages the front differential. If either of these do not work, your 4X4 won't work.
In my case, ad most that I have read, the 4X4 simply does not engage and the dash light either always goes on or does not go on.
1. Rule out transfer case problems: This is easy - get someone to put your truck in 4X4 and roll forward while you peek underneath from the side. If the front drive shaft is turning, your transfer case is fine and engaged.
2. Check the fuse! #23 by the hood lever and parking brake under the front dash.
3. Check the functioning of the solenoids: this is easy as well. The solenoids are located in the passenger side of the engine compartment directly behind the battery on the firewall.
From what I have read, a good indication of a problem here is the absence of the dash light. You can get fancy and test them electrically (they should each have 12V power all of the time) but the easiest way is to put your fingers on the plastic caps and feel and listen for a click as someone shifts your truck in and out of 4X4. If they click - they are working! If not, this is likely your problem. It is a common problem apparently for these years of trucks to get water in the solenoids which then freezes and cracks them.
Here is some good info and part numbers if this is your problem
"The right solenoid (E8AE-9H465-AA) controls the vacuum to the return side of axle engagement diaphram. The left solenoid (E8AE-9H465-BA) controls the vacuum to the activation side of the axle engagement diaphram. Ford has been having chronic problems with water entry into these solenoids, corroding them from the inside and seizing them,as you've seen!<O
></O>
They've been redesigned and those old part numbers (E8AE-9H465-AA/BA) have been superseded.
The latest designs are listed as:
Disengage solenoid 6L3Z-9H465-A (identified by electrical connector rib at 9:00 position)
Engage solenoid 6L3Z-9H465-B (connector rib at 6:00 position).
3. Check your vacuum lines: This is a little tricky to do becuase they wind their way from the solenoids all the way to the 4WD actuator on the front axle. One hose leaves from each solenoid at the front (close side to the battery) and one is pink and the other is blue(greenish if older). Follow the lines down as best as you can, checking for spots with wear or rubbing. Also make note if they seem old and brittle as there could be a crack you don't see. Mine were rubbing a bit on the passengers side wheel well so check there. Now crawl under the truck and in the centre on the axle is the actuator diaphragm. It is under a cover that is easily removed with a socket and the two hoses are attached to it. Pull the hoses off and while the truck is on, and someone shifts it in and out, put a finger over the end of each hose. The vacuum should alternate hoses when shifted and the pressure should be equal although it is surprisingly not a strong pull. If your hoses look good and suck like I said, they should be all good (this also confirms that your solenoids, and vacuum reservoir are working as well.)
4. Vacuum actuator function: This is easy to check. Crawl under your truck, take off the cover for the actuator and watch as your friend shifts from 4X4 and back. When the truck is shifted to 4X4, the shaft should slide into the diaphragm, moving the lever it is connected to to the passenger side direction. When shifted back to 2 wheel, the shaft should slide out of the diaphragm towards the drivers side. The movement is about 2 inches total and happens smoothly.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com[IMG]https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/ /><o:lock aspectratio=</o:lock>
If this works, then you may want to check to see if the shift fork (the lever that the actuator moves) is not bent or broken, or the pin that holds it in place is not sheared. It this all good, then maybe your front differential needs help?
If the diaphragm moves stiff and short, it is one of two problems: there is a tear in the diaphragm or the shaft has corroded and is stiff and needs lube. To check if the diaphragm is just stiff, assist the truck by pushing the shaft in an out by hand. This should engage and disengage the 4X4. When I did this, I engaged the 4X by pushing the shaft in but it was very stiff and hand to pull it out again with leverage from a screwdriver. Mine was just stiff and needed lubrication - which worked! If you can move it freely by hand, I would say there is a tear in the diaphragm and you probably need a new one. Try ebay -- they are $100 where at Ford they are $460!! Part number is F65Z-3G360-BA
Hopefully this helps and will guide some other less than mechanical people towards fixing a problem for cheap or free!
The 4X4 works with two systems - the shifter on the floor manually engages the transfer case. It also causes a relay to ground one of two solenoids that cause vacuum lines to activate an actuator which engages the front differential. If either of these do not work, your 4X4 won't work.
In my case, ad most that I have read, the 4X4 simply does not engage and the dash light either always goes on or does not go on.
1. Rule out transfer case problems: This is easy - get someone to put your truck in 4X4 and roll forward while you peek underneath from the side. If the front drive shaft is turning, your transfer case is fine and engaged.
2. Check the fuse! #23 by the hood lever and parking brake under the front dash.
3. Check the functioning of the solenoids: this is easy as well. The solenoids are located in the passenger side of the engine compartment directly behind the battery on the firewall.
From what I have read, a good indication of a problem here is the absence of the dash light. You can get fancy and test them electrically (they should each have 12V power all of the time) but the easiest way is to put your fingers on the plastic caps and feel and listen for a click as someone shifts your truck in and out of 4X4. If they click - they are working! If not, this is likely your problem. It is a common problem apparently for these years of trucks to get water in the solenoids which then freezes and cracks them.
Here is some good info and part numbers if this is your problem
"The right solenoid (E8AE-9H465-AA) controls the vacuum to the return side of axle engagement diaphram. The left solenoid (E8AE-9H465-BA) controls the vacuum to the activation side of the axle engagement diaphram. Ford has been having chronic problems with water entry into these solenoids, corroding them from the inside and seizing them,as you've seen!<O
></O>They've been redesigned and those old part numbers (E8AE-9H465-AA/BA) have been superseded.
The latest designs are listed as:
Disengage solenoid 6L3Z-9H465-A (identified by electrical connector rib at 9:00 position)
Engage solenoid 6L3Z-9H465-B (connector rib at 6:00 position).
3. Check your vacuum lines: This is a little tricky to do becuase they wind their way from the solenoids all the way to the 4WD actuator on the front axle. One hose leaves from each solenoid at the front (close side to the battery) and one is pink and the other is blue(greenish if older). Follow the lines down as best as you can, checking for spots with wear or rubbing. Also make note if they seem old and brittle as there could be a crack you don't see. Mine were rubbing a bit on the passengers side wheel well so check there. Now crawl under the truck and in the centre on the axle is the actuator diaphragm. It is under a cover that is easily removed with a socket and the two hoses are attached to it. Pull the hoses off and while the truck is on, and someone shifts it in and out, put a finger over the end of each hose. The vacuum should alternate hoses when shifted and the pressure should be equal although it is surprisingly not a strong pull. If your hoses look good and suck like I said, they should be all good (this also confirms that your solenoids, and vacuum reservoir are working as well.)
4. Vacuum actuator function: This is easy to check. Crawl under your truck, take off the cover for the actuator and watch as your friend shifts from 4X4 and back. When the truck is shifted to 4X4, the shaft should slide into the diaphragm, moving the lever it is connected to to the passenger side direction. When shifted back to 2 wheel, the shaft should slide out of the diaphragm towards the drivers side. The movement is about 2 inches total and happens smoothly.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com[IMG]https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/ /><o:lock aspectratio=</o:lock>
If this works, then you may want to check to see if the shift fork (the lever that the actuator moves) is not bent or broken, or the pin that holds it in place is not sheared. It this all good, then maybe your front differential needs help?
If the diaphragm moves stiff and short, it is one of two problems: there is a tear in the diaphragm or the shaft has corroded and is stiff and needs lube. To check if the diaphragm is just stiff, assist the truck by pushing the shaft in an out by hand. This should engage and disengage the 4X4. When I did this, I engaged the 4X by pushing the shaft in but it was very stiff and hand to pull it out again with leverage from a screwdriver. Mine was just stiff and needed lubrication - which worked! If you can move it freely by hand, I would say there is a tear in the diaphragm and you probably need a new one. Try ebay -- they are $100 where at Ford they are $460!! Part number is F65Z-3G360-BA
Hopefully this helps and will guide some other less than mechanical people towards fixing a problem for cheap or free!
Turn ESOF to 2H, vehicle engages in 4H operation.
Anyone have any suggestions for a fix?
#137
05-21-2018, 10:08 PM
Others know much more than I but I would check under the hood and see if somebody accidentally got the electrical connectors switched on the solenoids or maybe the vacuum lines. However, I think that would just affect the 4WD actuator at the front axle. I would also check the dash switch resistance at each position 4low 2hi 4 hi. 2hi 4100-3700 Ohms 4 hi 1050-1150 Ohms 4low 380-340 Ohms
#138
12-11-2018, 03:20 PM
Since I have to wait for moderator to approve a new thread... trying to copy and paste here.
Yes, I know there is a sticky on troubleshooting. I've read it along with dozens of other posts probably at least 10 times now. I'm pretty confident that I have seen every single thread/post out there on troubleshooting ESOF 4X4 issues. So with that said, I'm STILL looking for help before I have to swallow my pride and take it to a dealer that has the cool kid scan tool that will see and manipulate the GEM...
Issue started with 4X4 NOT working (worked fine last winter). Turn **** to 4Hi, nothing...no relay click, no dash light, like the switch wasn't even working... Checked fuses inside and underhood and those were still good.
Then, since it was quick and easy, I tested with another selector switch and still nothing.
Then, went ahead and swapped BOTH solenoids, as both had good vacuum coming in, disconnected battery just to "reset" everything and then turned key on, turned selector switch to 4Hi, got a SINGLE "relay click", but no light, no engaging anywhere...still nothing
Then, grabbed another transfer case shift motor, disconnected battery again while swapping out, hooked everything back up and started the truck. Turn the selector switch to 4Hi and then "click click", "clunk" and 4X4 Light comes on. Drop it in drive, could tell front was definitely engaged and I'm thinking "Cool, it was just the shift motor"
Then I move selector switch back to 2Hi....NOTHING. No click, no clunk, light still showing 4X4 on dash and NOW the truck is stuck in 4Hi and will not come out... So I went from not being able to get 4X4 to not being able to get rid of it. I took the shift motor back off the transfer case and manually moved the shaft back to 2Hi and then manually moved the actuator to disengage the front axles to be able to at least drive it.
Started pulling dash apart today, hoping to find good old fashioned relays, and ended up seeing another stupid module. So the transfer case relay module seems to be getting power, but still nothing.
I haven't had the windshield leak issues, so there is no issue where water would've made it to the GEM. And if the GEM was actually bad, I'd expect I'd probably be having some of the other issues like wipers, power window, dome lights etc. that come with bad GEM...
So if anyone has any suggestions, I'd welcome it! I ran across a post saying they replaced a "Transmission Range Sensor Switch" because the ball was sticking a little and that fixed their issue, but I'm not seeing that part anywhere like it said on the transfer case, so maybe it was a floor shift optioned truck instead of the dash switch....
Really, I don't want to hear a dealer say "That'll be $1000". I don't claim to be a mechanic, but I'm not completely ignorant either. I just feel like there is something small I'm missing somewhere.
Yes, I know there is a sticky on troubleshooting. I've read it along with dozens of other posts probably at least 10 times now. I'm pretty confident that I have seen every single thread/post out there on troubleshooting ESOF 4X4 issues. So with that said, I'm STILL looking for help before I have to swallow my pride and take it to a dealer that has the cool kid scan tool that will see and manipulate the GEM...
Issue started with 4X4 NOT working (worked fine last winter). Turn **** to 4Hi, nothing...no relay click, no dash light, like the switch wasn't even working... Checked fuses inside and underhood and those were still good.
Then, since it was quick and easy, I tested with another selector switch and still nothing.
Then, went ahead and swapped BOTH solenoids, as both had good vacuum coming in, disconnected battery just to "reset" everything and then turned key on, turned selector switch to 4Hi, got a SINGLE "relay click", but no light, no engaging anywhere...still nothing
Then, grabbed another transfer case shift motor, disconnected battery again while swapping out, hooked everything back up and started the truck. Turn the selector switch to 4Hi and then "click click", "clunk" and 4X4 Light comes on. Drop it in drive, could tell front was definitely engaged and I'm thinking "Cool, it was just the shift motor"
Then I move selector switch back to 2Hi....NOTHING. No click, no clunk, light still showing 4X4 on dash and NOW the truck is stuck in 4Hi and will not come out... So I went from not being able to get 4X4 to not being able to get rid of it. I took the shift motor back off the transfer case and manually moved the shaft back to 2Hi and then manually moved the actuator to disengage the front axles to be able to at least drive it.
Started pulling dash apart today, hoping to find good old fashioned relays, and ended up seeing another stupid module. So the transfer case relay module seems to be getting power, but still nothing.
I haven't had the windshield leak issues, so there is no issue where water would've made it to the GEM. And if the GEM was actually bad, I'd expect I'd probably be having some of the other issues like wipers, power window, dome lights etc. that come with bad GEM...
So if anyone has any suggestions, I'd welcome it! I ran across a post saying they replaced a "Transmission Range Sensor Switch" because the ball was sticking a little and that fixed their issue, but I'm not seeing that part anywhere like it said on the transfer case, so maybe it was a floor shift optioned truck instead of the dash switch....
Really, I don't want to hear a dealer say "That'll be $1000". I don't claim to be a mechanic, but I'm not completely ignorant either. I just feel like there is something small I'm missing somewhere.
#142
05-18-2019, 04:35 PM
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Milwaukee, WI
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I will post this and hope an answer comes back before Noon on Sunday. (I need help as this vehicle is going to turn me psycho.)
I go to check a new alternator (The third one I replaced in a full month) to see if a pin was left in the device. When I saw no pin was available, I reinstalled the Alternator.
I get soldering wire and a soldering iron to fix a problem with the speedometer being out. Also the battery light was on after replacing the second alternator with the third one.
After soldering the electronic component, I replace the dashboard to have the following issues:
Email me with any ideas at earllewis1967@gmail.com. I live in Milwaukee, WI - a place that is a blessing AND a curse.
Thanks,
Earl D. Lewis
I go to check a new alternator (The third one I replaced in a full month) to see if a pin was left in the device. When I saw no pin was available, I reinstalled the Alternator.
I get soldering wire and a soldering iron to fix a problem with the speedometer being out. Also the battery light was on after replacing the second alternator with the third one.
After soldering the electronic component, I replace the dashboard to have the following issues:
- Dashboard works EXCEPT for the speedometer
- Battery light is still on
- When I turn the key, The startup process takes place, but no ignition.
Email me with any ideas at earllewis1967@gmail.com. I live in Milwaukee, WI - a place that is a blessing AND a curse.
Thanks,
Earl D. Lewis
#143
10-22-2019, 02:12 PM
did you ever figure out issue. have exact same problem you have described.
Since I have to wait for moderator to approve a new thread... trying to copy and paste here.
Yes, I know there is a sticky on troubleshooting. I've read it along with dozens of other posts probably at least 10 times now. I'm pretty confident that I have seen every single thread/post out there on troubleshooting ESOF 4X4 issues. So with that said, I'm STILL looking for help before I have to swallow my pride and take it to a dealer that has the cool kid scan tool that will see and manipulate the GEM...
Issue started with 4X4 NOT working (worked fine last winter). Turn **** to 4Hi, nothing...no relay click, no dash light, like the switch wasn't even working... Checked fuses inside and underhood and those were still good.
Then, since it was quick and easy, I tested with another selector switch and still nothing.
Then, went ahead and swapped BOTH solenoids, as both had good vacuum coming in, disconnected battery just to "reset" everything and then turned key on, turned selector switch to 4Hi, got a SINGLE "relay click", but no light, no engaging anywhere...still nothing
Then, grabbed another transfer case shift motor, disconnected battery again while swapping out, hooked everything back up and started the truck. Turn the selector switch to 4Hi and then "click click", "clunk" and 4X4 Light comes on. Drop it in drive, could tell front was definitely engaged and I'm thinking "Cool, it was just the shift motor"
Then I move selector switch back to 2Hi....NOTHING. No click, no clunk, light still showing 4X4 on dash and NOW the truck is stuck in 4Hi and will not come out... So I went from not being able to get 4X4 to not being able to get rid of it. I took the shift motor back off the transfer case and manually moved the shaft back to 2Hi and then manually moved the actuator to disengage the front axles to be able to at least drive it.
Started pulling dash apart today, hoping to find good old fashioned relays, and ended up seeing another stupid module. So the transfer case relay module seems to be getting power, but still nothing.
I haven't had the windshield leak issues, so there is no issue where water would've made it to the GEM. And if the GEM was actually bad, I'd expect I'd probably be having some of the other issues like wipers, power window, dome lights etc. that come with bad GEM...
So if anyone has any suggestions, I'd welcome it! I ran across a post saying they replaced a "Transmission Range Sensor Switch" because the ball was sticking a little and that fixed their issue, but I'm not seeing that part anywhere like it said on the transfer case, so maybe it was a floor shift optioned truck instead of the dash switch....
Really, I don't want to hear a dealer say "That'll be $1000". I don't claim to be a mechanic, but I'm not completely ignorant either. I just feel like there is something small I'm missing somewhere.
Yes, I know there is a sticky on troubleshooting. I've read it along with dozens of other posts probably at least 10 times now. I'm pretty confident that I have seen every single thread/post out there on troubleshooting ESOF 4X4 issues. So with that said, I'm STILL looking for help before I have to swallow my pride and take it to a dealer that has the cool kid scan tool that will see and manipulate the GEM...
Issue started with 4X4 NOT working (worked fine last winter). Turn **** to 4Hi, nothing...no relay click, no dash light, like the switch wasn't even working... Checked fuses inside and underhood and those were still good.
Then, since it was quick and easy, I tested with another selector switch and still nothing.
Then, went ahead and swapped BOTH solenoids, as both had good vacuum coming in, disconnected battery just to "reset" everything and then turned key on, turned selector switch to 4Hi, got a SINGLE "relay click", but no light, no engaging anywhere...still nothing
Then, grabbed another transfer case shift motor, disconnected battery again while swapping out, hooked everything back up and started the truck. Turn the selector switch to 4Hi and then "click click", "clunk" and 4X4 Light comes on. Drop it in drive, could tell front was definitely engaged and I'm thinking "Cool, it was just the shift motor"
Then I move selector switch back to 2Hi....NOTHING. No click, no clunk, light still showing 4X4 on dash and NOW the truck is stuck in 4Hi and will not come out... So I went from not being able to get 4X4 to not being able to get rid of it. I took the shift motor back off the transfer case and manually moved the shaft back to 2Hi and then manually moved the actuator to disengage the front axles to be able to at least drive it.
Started pulling dash apart today, hoping to find good old fashioned relays, and ended up seeing another stupid module. So the transfer case relay module seems to be getting power, but still nothing.
I haven't had the windshield leak issues, so there is no issue where water would've made it to the GEM. And if the GEM was actually bad, I'd expect I'd probably be having some of the other issues like wipers, power window, dome lights etc. that come with bad GEM...
So if anyone has any suggestions, I'd welcome it! I ran across a post saying they replaced a "Transmission Range Sensor Switch" because the ball was sticking a little and that fixed their issue, but I'm not seeing that part anywhere like it said on the transfer case, so maybe it was a floor shift optioned truck instead of the dash switch....
Really, I don't want to hear a dealer say "That'll be $1000". I don't claim to be a mechanic, but I'm not completely ignorant either. I just feel like there is something small I'm missing somewhere.
#145
07-15-2020, 09:21 PM
Junior User
My 97 f150 shifted into 4 hi one day while going down the road. And I noticed an odd sound when coasting down hills. While trying to figure out what the sound was coming from the transfer case, sounded more like a rattle of a chain, I noticed that my 4x4 lights were not on. Later I was leaving mom's house to go home and it would have a grinding sound in reverse. So I put it in park and park ground to a halt as if the truck were rolling, which it was stationary by the way. I fooled around with it for a bit as if the transfer case was stuck between gears, as neither forward nor reverse worked. I flipped the switch to try different positions to see if I could make something happen while I had the transmission in neutral. Finally I had a gear and it is now locked in 4 L. Which explains why one day a week earlier while driving about 35 or 40 mph, my truck made a loud engaging sound and jumped back into high range. I made sure to drive slow the rest of that trip as I didn't know what was up. But I haven't checked the fuse, but I feel the problem may require a good deal more trouble shooting.
So if any else has had this problem before, let me know what the fix is.
So if any else has had this problem before, let me know what the fix is.
#146
11-13-2020, 12:50 PM
I’m new, didn’t know how to navigate the intro forum but this is the exact frustration I am having.
”Blue” is an f250, tho. 2004.
There is some trick to putting her in 4-wheel drive. Park and then turn the switch? Neutral and turn the switch? I don’t know because if I play with it long enough she usually switches but I don’t remember what I did.
Is it really this hard!?? Haha
I am stuck in the mud as I type.
🤪😥🙏😁
”Blue” is an f250, tho. 2004.
There is some trick to putting her in 4-wheel drive. Park and then turn the switch? Neutral and turn the switch? I don’t know because if I play with it long enough she usually switches but I don’t remember what I did.
Is it really this hard!?? Haha
I am stuck in the mud as I type.
🤪😥🙏😁
#147
11-14-2020, 07:53 PM
Junior User
If it is working properly, it should be able to shift on the fly. Just allow it plenty of time to engage before giving it any fuel. And don't gun it at first either, as the front hubs may not be fully locked in. You'll probably hear a thump when they do engage. Once you hear that you'll know if blue is pulling in 4x4.
.
4low is the one where you have to be stopped and in neutral to engage. But you don't need 4low in the mud because the tired have to rotate at a certain speed to clean them selves.
too bad I didn't get this message until just now.
.
4low is the one where you have to be stopped and in neutral to engage. But you don't need 4low in the mud because the tired have to rotate at a certain speed to clean them selves.
too bad I didn't get this message until just now.
#148
12-19-2020, 02:55 PM
4WD shifter is hard to move
The other day I put my truck in 4WD and back to 2wd no problem. Drove about 10 miles and I went to put it back into 4WD and I couldn’t move the shifter. Today I disconnected the linkage and I use a flat bar to move shifter at transfer case. I sprayed it with PB blaster. It moves but still takes a lot to do it. It’s not smooth at all. I can hear the relay on the firewall engage, light on dash comes on and in a few seconds I hear the relay and the light goes out. I need suggestions I’m at a loss on what could be going on.
#149
01-06-2021, 07:55 PM
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recently my shifter tube broke on my 2000 F150 XLT Supercab 4x4, not knowing how to take off top plastic shroud from around key i cut it and peeled it off , triggering my anti theft system, I get DTC of P0232 ( fuel pump circ off) , I reset the fuel pump on passenger side panel wall, P1260 ( theft detected) , and the anti theft light blink code "12" ( one blink, pause, two blinks) , truck turn over but won't start, i can't hear the fuel pump come on at all, how can i reset the PAT system without taking it to the dealer 66 miles away and a 600$ tow bill to get it there? I pulled the battery today while waiting until Friday for shifter tube clamps since one was broke I discovered when replacing the tube
#150
01-09-2021, 11:59 AM
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