On the F-Series trucks there are usually three relays grouped together, fuel pump relay, horn relay and computer (ECM) relay. In your case could be any of them.
The diagnostic port should be on the drivers side inner fender near the firewall as shown in my link. See if you can find it.

 

I looked everywhere. From your picture and other diagrams, it looks like almost a diamond shape,(or at least three sides on top) but I looked on both sides of the engine..nada. At least I replaced that awful looking fuel pump relay today.
I looked on the drivers side fender wall,and pretty much all I see over there is my Dist.Coil and a few fusible links here and there. Does it have a cover on it, or are the check prongs open and exposed? Check out the picture..yell if you can see it.
I know you are only trying to help. But Rangers are not F-series, or Broncos, and that may be a very slight difference. Thank you.

 

You are right it is not there. It would have a plastic cover on it with "diagnostic plug" embossed on it.
It would be a big help to be able to access the codes as the computer can often flag up faulty components.
I notice that you said It runs OK after it warms up. This could indicate a problem with the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (ECT sensor) or the wring connection to it. This sensor is usually screwed into the engine near the thermostat housing (usually the thing that the top radiator hose plugs on to). If necessary go back on to the repair section of autozone.com to find the exact location. It should also tell you there how to test the ECT sensor (you would need a cheap multimeter).

 

I have a 85 that I bought new at Shamrock in Dublin. EFI, 5-speed OD, 2.3. A year older 'twin'.
The PCV is under the intake manifold. Follow the rubber tube down from the bottom of the intake near the throttle body[the horizontal run before it turns downwards towards the lower intake]. The PCV is 'in-line', buried inside the large diameter tube coming from the oil separator that is plugged into the side of the crankcase. Pull the large tube from the smaller diameter tube and there'll be the PCV. The replacement will come packaged with a two-tube adapter. You don't need it. Just plug the bare PCV in place. Mine still has the factory PCV from 1984. Same with fuel filter. Same with trans and differential lube.
The MAP sensor will cause a terrible idle if it is broken. The idle would go up and down and almost stall then run smooth then start the whole process all over again. I think you can unplug the electrical connector and it will use a 'default' setting where the idle should settle down.
The diagnostic connector is a red plastic deal under the shield you took off on the passenger side where the relay and starter solenoid is located. The best I can describe is that it is almost 'barn shaped' in its profile - looking towards the connector slots. Flat bottom, vertical walls, and then a 3-plane roof. You can use a voltmeter to pull stored codes, or you can buy the $30 code reader at most auto parts stores. The code puller will come with a book that explains what the various codes imply.
The fuel pressure regulator is vacuum modulated. When the engine has higher vacuum, such as at idle, the fuel pressure will be reduced by the regulator to minimize flow from the injectors. When you are at very low vacuum, such as full wide-open throttle, the regulator will let the fuel pressure rise to its maximum. If it is broken, fuel mileage would be very bad, or it would run without any 'pep', as fuel flow would be limited.
With respect to the corrosion on the wires, I would spray the corroded spots with a white grease you can buy in a pressurized can, or with oil. If they carry the current, and don't short out against anything, they are functional. All you want to do is to slow down the corrosion. Oil or white grease will prevent air [O2] from getting to the copper to oxidize the wire.
I don't know that I would use platinum plugs on this vintage, though they did use them on the turbo T-bird.
If the ACT or ECT sensors were telling the ECM that your incoming air or coolant temperatures were warmer than reality, the ECM would command the IAC to go to slow idle and leaner mix sooner than it should. That would lead to stalling and bad idle when the engine was cold, that would improve when the engine warmed up.
My truck would not pass CA smog test when it was one year old. I had to take it to the umpire. Took the test at SMOG station, failed, took it for a run down the highway to get it warmed up fully. Re-test. FAIL. Took my money, and told me to go to Ford dealer.
Ford dealer got me for $125 for a 'intake manifold cleaning' and re-test - failed twice. Thence an appointment with the umpire. Failed again. They gave me a piece of paper that allowed an 'exemption' and I got my plate. On a brand new truck.
By the way, I left CA, and think the bozo's running the place are in a different reality than mine.
The truck has passed every smog test here. I found that if you remove the throttle plate body from the upper intake, and douche the intake with O2-sensor-safe carb cleaner and let it soak, it will pass smog, and run a lot nicer at idle. I spray all around the inner surfaces of the upper intake. The EGR and PCV vapors are both fed into the intake and can cause a coating[coke?] that will absorb fuel vapors and cause a smog test failure.
tom

add:
"Unknown electrical under IAC"
is the 'dithering valve pair'. They add and hold vacuum to the EGR. One is the 'holder' valve, and one is the 'apply' valve. Vacuum will be applied to move the EGR to where the ECM commands -say 50%- and then the hold valve will just lock it in place. The EGR has a variable resistor that the ECM looks at to determine EGR position.

"What is this? located in Intake Manifold" is either the 'knock sensor' or the ECT - Engine Coolant Temp sensor. I don't think it is the Air Charge Temp sensor. I could look it up if you must know.

 

Thanks TomW!
Where were you two weeks ago? Thanks for the answers to my burning questions on those parts...much appreciated!

Ummm. Diagnostic. The Red thing over under the shield on Pass side..ok, I'll take a much closer look. On the PVC, Do I have to take anything apart from the upper/lower manifold to get to it?

And the Map sensor..I still have a new one and have not returned it yet..should I install it anyway? Could it help regardless?

The problem seemed to work itself out for now. Maybe it was bad gas. It hasn't stalled for a couple of days.

Thanks! Thanks a lot for your reply Tom.

 

The PVC holds the two pieces of tubing together. Large end towards the block, small end towards the tube headed for the intake. Once you locate it, you have to twist back and forth the get the large end out, swing the smaller tubing up from under the manifold more or less out near the distributor, and then work the PCV free of the tube. Put the new one into the small tube, and then insert the large end into the larger tube.
If the MAP is working, no need to replace it. Mine is original. When it fails, you will either get poor mileage and / or wandering idle, as the MAP will modulate the injector flow based upon random responses.

tom

 

I'm sorry. I have failed. I keep looking in that area between the right side of the distributor Cap, and around the fuel pressure regulator,and nothing even comes close to looking like the PVC I bought at the store.

Do I have to remove the upper manifold to get to it? Or remove anything at all? Seems like a very tight fit.


The more I learn about my truck, the more I regress. Is it that white tubular plug-in looking thing that's sticking out of the manifold right above the dist. cap? (see my picture of drivers side photo)
Knock sensor or the ECT - Engine Coolant Temp sensor...maybe that got wet, and was the problem, maybe my plug wires, which I never replaced, only the plugs. BUT....Pep Boys told me the Coolant temp sensor should be by the thermostat, over by the radiator hose going into the engine. WHAT?

I returned the MAP sensor today. If it works don't fix it. I probably couldn't hear any difference in performance anyway.

Overall, the truck now seems to be starting, self idling, and running. So I will count my blessing for now.

 

from up above:
The PCV is under the intake manifold. Follow the rubber tube down from the bottom of the intake near the throttle body[the horizontal run before it turns downwards towards the lower intake]. The PCV is 'in-line', buried inside the large diameter tube coming from the oil separator that is plugged into the side of the crankcase. Pull the large tube from the smaller diameter tube and there'll be the PCV.

Does this help?
t

 

I guess it was a little water in the distributor or other exposed areas, maybe even a few relays that needed time to completely dry out. I haven't experienced that stalling for a while now. Also, cleaning that valve control connected to the air filter box was also needed and made a difference. Thank you for all who chimed in,much appreciated. have a happy new year!

 

Ok, At first I thought it may be a fuel problem, but now that I can smell gas after trying to crank the engine tells me I maybe wrong but...)

Fuel pump is sending gas to the injectors, pumping rich, and hence the smell, but I think I'm not getting a spark.

I removed my distributor coil and had it tested, it's fine. The guy did not have a tester for the TFI Module ( Under distrib. cap, it's gray and elongated, with metal surface for dielectric grease, and plugs into three prong electrical.

I have replaced four of these in the past 26 years. And this part is infamous for causing these exact problems with this RANGER Model.

The other part of this 'spark" system would be the (very expensive0 EEC-IV computer thingie that's inside middle cab, under dash. Don't think I ever replaced that before.

The plugs and plug wires are about 2-1/2 years old, they appear to be fine. So I will take this TFI to Autozone for them to test it tomorrow and get back here to report.

Oh yeah, Autozone's price, $45.00.....and FORD'S price? $198.65. and the ECC-IV is a few hundred dollars.
Thanks again!

 

Thanks!

The TFI I had tested at Autozone was a MOTORCRAFT part and it tested BAD. I also had two extras I had laying around, and one of those tested GOOD. So I bought the TFI Duralast Module for $46.00.

I got it home, installed it (using the supplies dielectric grease) and I'm back to the cranking a few times, then it starts and maintains an idle for a few minutes, then stalls out. Sometimes it wants to idle, most times it only cranks.

I located my EEC-IV on the inside cab, passengers side kick wall, behind that plastic cover, (one Phillips screw, and another on the metal floor door trim) that loosens up this cover.

I DO appreciate the feedback here and those who suggest me testing codes or checking fuel pressure, but I have no tools like that, so I'm trying (wasting my time) to figure out what's causing this. I am tempted to save time, and have it towed to a repair shop that can do diagnostics on this...(cheaper than Fords prices) Being disabled with Cancer, I just needed to try to save money that I don't really have.

I smell gas when I crank, so fuel must be getting to the injectors. Spark is there, Distributor coil also tested GOOD.

When this was idling that one time, I removed the vac line from the VAC Hose tree, (that connects from the Fuel pressure regulator) and there was a lot of suction over the metal tube on the tree.

EEC-IV, I was told, don't go out as much as the TFI (Ignition control Module )

I also replaced my Pickup coil some years ago.

So does everyone still think this may be a fuel pump problem? or an electrical?

 

You don't have to buy all the tools you need, as some auto parts stores will lend them to you with the proviso that if you break it, you bought it. See if you can do that with a fuel pressure gauge. If you do, check the fuel volume also by bleeding off fuel for 10 seconds and then doing some math to calculate the flow rate and its adequacy.
Starts, idles and stalls may be a symptom of air and coolant temp sensor maladventures. If the computer thinks the coolant is hot or the air being fed is warm, it may lean out the idle mix, causing stalling.
This post has been open so long I don't remember if the IAC has been cleaned or replaced, but a gummy or dirty IAC can be a cause for stalling.
tom

 

Here we go once again!
Well, I thought everything was peachy-keeno and the truck ran for a couple of days after I replaced the TFI module (below the distributor) and fiddled around with the cylinder switch which actually, when placed in a certain position of the key, the truck would actually crank, turn over, idle, and run, like nobodies business.

But now, it's the same problem I had before all this. I know some of you suggested a pressure regulator gauge tester, but now it does not start over at all.

I suspected the EEC-IV located passenger's side, kick-wall behind the plastic shroud. So thinking I can have this diagnostically tested, I removed it, and the place that told me they could test it, no longer can do this. Now they tell me they don't have the equipment.

I called a local Ford dealership, and they wanted me to reconnect the PCM-EEC-IV, drive it in, or tow it in, and they would charge me $225.00. Plus repairs.
Sorry, I don't have that kind of money.

Anyone living in the Southern California Area of Orange County that knows of a Auto Electric Rebuilders, or can do a Diagnostic on this EEC-IV PCM computer, please let me know.

I already called Pep Boys, AutoZone and O'Reilly, as well as a place in Santa Ana , but that person will be back in two weeks.

Sure, I can sink about $200.00 including tax and Core charge and just order a new one, but at this point I'm driving in the dark. Where will this end? Fuel pump or Sock in tank clogged? I don't know.

Thanks...I'm just venting.

 

Have you replaced the ACTUAL ignition switch? It is a rectangular object a little further down the steering column from the key lock cylinder. It has a link to the lock cylinder that moves a slide back and forth to actually do the switching to engage the starter, provide ignition power, enable the accessories etc. They start to come apart with age, or can. Mine did. It cooked in CA sun in Alameda county for 8 years, then the GA sun for the next 20. It would just stop running, until I moved the key just a titch towards the START position. A new one was less than $15.
To remove it, I used a file, and made 'flats' on the side of the breakaway bolts, and then used a small crescent wrench to unscrew the bolts. FoMoCo says to drill them out, and I am no good at doing that. I ALWAYS mess up the threads, so thought this would be a good alternative if it worked. Replaced the bolts with 'regulars'...
tom

 

I haven't done any code reader things, don't know how.

Although the key switch was replced a few years ago, I don't think it was the swith itself, I think that was a fluke, and now I'm back on the elecrical.

No, it's not turning over at all. CRANKS YES, Turns over and runs.....No.


Ford gave me the wrong part number for the EEC-IV, {E8TZ12A-650-CRA}
USA Made (not Canada) 2.3L / EFI Gas / 5-Speed / 4-Cyl. Standard 2-Wheel / SOHC

Trying to get cross reference from FORD, then giving them to Autozone, O'Reilly, or Pep Boys is like pulling teeth.

These are supposed to be the correct numbers ~

PCM EEC-IV Computer (mounted Inside cab, passenger's side, kickwall)
# E69Z12A650M.

Pep Boys - BWD #ECC1635 $113.99+tx / CORE $70.00
Autozone - Cardone-Reman #78-4323 $97.99+tx/CORE $45.00.
________________________________________
Ford's Plug Wire set is# E8PZ122259A.

Pep Boys -BWD CH464 $30.99
Autozone - #4111 $ 15.99
_________________________________________

Pep Boys sold me the wrong Plug Wire set, and when I installed them, the cranking was really erratic, and shook immensely.
They gave me ProStart #CH46SP.

What I did have in my truck were MAG XTS 8.5MM Premium Silicone Suppression.

So, searching for someone to test this is non-existent in this area, so instead of shipping it out to get tested, with postage, I might as well just buy a new one for 100.00, and hope that's the problem I'm having. I know some will tell me to read codes, but I do not know how.