Ford changed mine ONCE and put on a small Valvoline oil filter. Won't do that again. I keep my receipts and only use MC oil and filters. I know it is done right.

2010 F250 4X4 5.4L

 

Just changed the oil in my truck for the first time today. Was a big savings with me doing it myself. Juffy Lube wanted $86 to change the oil with synthetic oil, 76.95 plus 8 per quart extra. He was going to give me $10 off if I came in. I only paid $52 for the oil and filter at Auto Zone, and that included a new long funnel. They had a special, 5 quarts and Fram tough gaurd filter for $29. That's the full synthetic oil too. Had to buy 2 extra quarts at $8 each, but still cheaper. Should have just bought a second oil change special and kept it for next time.

By me doing it, I know there is synthetic oil in the engine. Just my 2 cents through.

 

Change at home if you have a place to do it. Once you get an oil drain pan, you're gold. They told me it was going to cost me $200 to change the oil in my '08 6.4 diesel. I did it for about $120.

 

I posted awhile back, but had a recent experience that really struck a nerve and emphasizes why I do it myself.

It was annual state inspection time on my Expedition and while the shop I've taken my vehicles to for repairs was looking things over, they recommended an oil change. I knew it was time, and I already had my MC oil and filter ready to go at the house, but since it was in the shop and I trust these guys, I had them change it anyway.

About a week after getting the truck back, my check engine light comes on. I read the codes and it said "Lean on Bank 1" and "Lean on Bank 2". I'm thinking a vacuum hose came off somewhere. I popped the hood to look around, and the first thing I saw was the oil build-up on the right side of the engine and engine compartment. I then see my oil fill cap sitting on the battery. The shop never put the cap back on after changing the oil. After cleaning things up and reinstalling the cap, I cleared the code and it never came back on. I went to the shop and explained things. The owner was extremely apologetic for the mistake and gave me a coupon for $50 off my next service with them. I have since had the truck back to them to have the trans lines replaced. Not only did they take the $50 off the job, they also took another $100 off as a way of saying "Thank You" for trusting us with your truck after the oil cap mistake. That is the sign of a true repair facility, if you ask me. I've been taking my vehicles to them for about 20 years and up until this problem, I've never had an issue with them. I'll still use them for repairs, however, I'll make sure to do my own oil changes from now on, even if the truck is in and they recommend an oil change.

 

That seems like an easy mistake and being in a hurry. I have forgotten to put mine back on before, but I did see it sitting on the tool box before driving away.

 

Have always done my own oil changes not only for the peace of mind but it's also one heck of a lot cheaper. Little messy on a gasser f250 ...that oil really comes out of there and then splashes off the stabilizer..but what the heck eh!

 

Provided you have consistently documented records of maintenace using parts that meet OE spec (they don't have to be OE), it's against the law for a mfg to deny a warranty claim because of who did the service or what parts are used. Save your receipts and document your service work for that reason.
The problem with manually entering everything in to a spreadsheet then throwing out your receipts is that you can't prove you didn't just sit down at your computer and do it all in one go.

 

Seeing as how most installers use the least expensive oil & filter they can find & most folks have no idea what installers pour into their crank case, when the API gets MOM in place, At API, Motor Oil Really Matters those that have others install their engine oil will have a piece of legal receipt paper to show what grade lube was installed & that'll help the purchaser know what oil was used & with any warranty questions that may arise.

BUT "MOM" doesn't help with the oil filter quality question, so with a questionable quality filter installed & with the manufacturers specifying longer drain intervals, or using an OLM to alert the driver its time for a change, a quality made filter that'll last, without splitting, collapsing, having the media come unglued, or clogging up & going into bypass because of filter media type, or amount used, is also important!!!!

Ford has valid reasons for the service grade lube, filter design & OCI it specifies, so we would be wise to see to it that we use products that say in writing that they at least meet, or exceed those specifications!!!!

 

My experience working in a dealership has been interesting, I do all my own work on my vehicles but o will tell you that some people shouldn't work on cars period. Drain plugs so torqued down that we've used an air chisel to get them out, brake pads split down the middle, it can get scary or wondering why they lost all their oil only to find they double gasketed the oil filter.
I understand not trusting people with your car, as it is putting your life in another's hands. But jiffy lube needs to be banished, multiple experiences through family and friends makes me speed past those places from just looking at them, missing drain plugs, double crush washers, loose oil filters, blown engines just not gonna deal with it.
But I would just say follow the owners manual for regular intervals, air filters every 12000-15000 and you're pretty much golden.

 

Ohio is the same way.

I believe in the philosophy that an extra oil change or paying someone to change oil is still cheaper than a new engine due to lack of oil changes. A quickie lube here charges 19.99 + 3.00 disposal + 8% tax. The wife and I were both due. She has an 07' Edge, while I have an 08' Ranger. My 3 Liter takes 5 quarts and her 3.5 Liter takes 5.5 or 6 quarts and they charged an extra 2.50 for her because of needing more than 5 quarts. Her bill was $27 something, while mine was just under $25. Had I gone to the store I'd have paid min. $17 for a 5 quart jug + upwards of $4- $5 for a filter. Oil is oil. Whether Valvoline at Wal-Mart, Valvoline at O'Reilly's, or Valvoline at Valvoline. Time is money. Let someone else do it. I live in an apt., which presents obstacles.

There is a federal law that owner's can't be denied warranty for work done elsewhere. I have every oil receipt in both our vehicles. We now have 90K on the Edge and 75K on the Ranger.

 

Wow. You lucked out, and would the story of been different if your engine had seized? I'm amazed at all the non trusting folks who can't believe that oil change places (mainly the quick lubes) are in business. While some places are truly terrible, like Jiffy Lube, and there are none in my area, I believe that most places do a fine job. It is very important to find a trustworthy place and we all make mistakes, though it is not owning up and taking responsibility for them that gives the industry a bad name. I had an oil change incident with a regional chain years ago, and I have since stopped going there. My 08' Ranger was under 2 years old, and it had approx. 15-20,000 miles on it. I needed an oil change and I went in for the service. It was not a quick lube with a guy in the pit rather a full service place with the bays raised, and I smoked at the time. I watched as my truck was raised and the tech removed the filter to drain. He then left to smoke. He put the new filter on, added oil, closed hood, etc. I drove away, and although I always checked oil level within a week (usually next day), I didn't for whatever reason. Three weeks later after driving 250 miles/week, I finally popped the hood and discovered no oil cap. Luckily, I had a dipstick and oil was full. I contacted the shop and they bought me a new cap. I had the oil changed elsewhere immediately because who knows how much contaminates got in, and the shop lost my business.

 

A reputable shop does this too. You're correct that a quick lube tech doing only oil changes wouldn't, but a regular shop mechanic should. That is there job. I went in for an oil change and a bad inner tie-rod was found along with a bad drive belt.

You bring up a great point about finding disposal for the oil filters that I accidentally deleted. They won't get recycled doing oil changes yourself. Auto zone here takes used oil but not filters.

Valvoline is expensive. An oil change there with a coupon is still $32 - $34. Luckily, other quickie lubes use Valvoline and charge less.

Better than pouring into the sewer, but not by much

I thought the point of recycling was to reuse? So, most used motor oil is burned?

One would think with computers that using the correct weight and exact amount of oil with correct filter would accurately be determined. I pulled up this weekend in both our vehicles for an oil change and the guy communicates with person in pit. My vehicle info is looked-up. I hear pit guy say, 'Draining oil'. Guy above says, ' Adding 5 quarts 5w20. Need filter X'.

That would **** me off. If I wanted Valvoline, I'd have gone there. They should use Motorcraft 100% of the time.

 

I generally do every 3rd oil change at a shop. I have an oil evac pump and love it. Some complain about not getting every drop out of the pan, but the oil left behind is no more than what would otherwise be dribbling out. It's negligible.

I generally take my home oil changes to 5k miles, but shop oil changes to 2-3k before doing another change. I don't trust them as much as I do my home change, but I do like going in to have all of my fittings greased, my transfer case checked and filled, as well as my manual transmission, and front and rear diff. I generally get out to check and see how much, if any fluid are needed in the aforementioned areas to see if I have some sort of leak.

 

If that includes u-joints I bet you dollars to doughnuts they aren't doing them correctly.
Next time you have it done, check if there is new grease coming out from around all 4 seals on each u-joint. I bet you it won't be.
I'm always surprised at the number of people who should know better say about u-joint greasing, "You only want a couple of pumps, you don't want to blow the seals."

 

Ha, if a low pressure hand pump grease gun can blow any sort of seal it has no business spinning thousands of RPMs down the expressway. I generally get out, ask them where all of the grease points are, and sort of let them "teach me" (every time) my truck, so I can see that they're doing it properly. Beats crawling under there myself. I don't have a fancy pit that I can stand up in under there.