old or new 351W ??
#1
old or new 351W ??
im thinking of building a 351W for my 66 bronco and have a chance to buy one of two 351W blocks A 69-71 C90E 6015-B The block is bored and honed .040 over
or a 1984 -1997 E3AE bored and honed .060 over . the bronco will mostly be used on road weekend coursing and some mountain roads running 3'5" lift and 33x12.50x15's NV4500 5Speed so im asking witch block would be better and more reliable ? any thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks for reading and your input
or a 1984 -1997 E3AE bored and honed .060 over . the bronco will mostly be used on road weekend coursing and some mountain roads running 3'5" lift and 33x12.50x15's NV4500 5Speed so im asking witch block would be better and more reliable ? any thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks for reading and your input
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1996 351W ? - GrandMarq.NET - Panther Headquarters
#7
no you cant run mechanical pump on the newer motors due to no hubcentric for the pump to use. if you change the timing cover, but then you would have to change the water pump and perhaps loose the serp belt setup.
a .040 bore would be max in my mind. i dont see why cooling would be an issue in that rig. the engine bay is plenty big and a 3 core rad with a good dual electric fan setup would work very well.
a .040 bore would be max in my mind. i dont see why cooling would be an issue in that rig. the engine bay is plenty big and a 3 core rad with a good dual electric fan setup would work very well.
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#8
no you cant run mechanical pump on the newer motors due to no hubcentric for the pump to use. if you change the timing cover, but then you would have to change the water pump and perhaps loose the serp belt setup.
a .040 bore would be max in my mind. i dont see why cooling would be an issue in that rig. the engine bay is plenty big and a 3 core rad with a good dual electric fan setup would work very well.
a .040 bore would be max in my mind. i dont see why cooling would be an issue in that rig. the engine bay is plenty big and a 3 core rad with a good dual electric fan setup would work very well.
Just throw a Com Cam in it then will it work I never reuse a stock cam.
#9
I had a bit of cooling issues with my 351W at first. I was running 3 core aluminum radiator and shorty headers. I ended up cutting the inner fenders out and letting it breathe better. Once I did that, no longer had heat issues under my hood. Even with them, I wasn't overheating. Just hotter then I'd like.
I'd NEVER build another Bronco w/o going with a 351W or 5.8L EFI setup. Way too much natural power over the 302/5.0s. I ran circles around my buddies 347 Stroker with my slightly modified 351W w/ 289 heads. His was converted to EFI and I was still setup with an aluminum intake and 4 barrel Edelbrock. His gears were better as I was still running stock 3.07s and 35s too.
I'd NEVER build another Bronco w/o going with a 351W or 5.8L EFI setup. Way too much natural power over the 302/5.0s. I ran circles around my buddies 347 Stroker with my slightly modified 351W w/ 289 heads. His was converted to EFI and I was still setup with an aluminum intake and 4 barrel Edelbrock. His gears were better as I was still running stock 3.07s and 35s too.
#10
i would just run electric pump, then a regulator to keep the pressure around 7psi for the carb. ive had the mechanical pumps fail and once that happens your dead in the water. but if you just carry a spare frame mounted electric pump you can swap and continue on.
#11
yes if you did a cam swap you could get the centric back in there but again you would lose the serp pully setup because that type of timing cover wont work with the reverse rotation pumps.
i would just run electric pump, then a regulator to keep the pressure around 7psi for the carb. ive had the mechanical pumps fail and once that happens your dead in the water. but if you just carry a spare frame mounted electric pump you can swap and continue on.
i would just run electric pump, then a regulator to keep the pressure around 7psi for the carb. ive had the mechanical pumps fail and once that happens your dead in the water. but if you just carry a spare frame mounted electric pump you can swap and continue on.
Oh,,,,,,,,,, the old dual fuel pumps...............
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