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old or new 351W ??

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  #1  
Old 02-01-2010, 07:48 PM
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old or new 351W ??

im thinking of building a 351W for my 66 bronco and have a chance to buy one of two 351W blocks A 69-71 C90E 6015-B The block is bored and honed .040 over
or a 1984 -1997 E3AE bored and honed .060 over . the bronco will mostly be used on road weekend coursing and some mountain roads running 3'5" lift and 33x12.50x15's NV4500 5Speed so im asking witch block would be better and more reliable ? any thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks for reading and your input
 
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:49 PM
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I wouldn't run either. The 351w is tough enough to keep cool in an EB without boring .040 or .060 over.
A nice standard late model roller block (IMO) is the way to go.
 
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Old 02-04-2010, 10:19 PM
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I agree with mcdobson...... you want a roller.... better to find a later 93 and up block you can drop a roller setup in..... oversize bores are not worth anything IMHO...... boring oversize is just closer to having to pay for sleves on the next rebuild!
 
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Old 02-15-2010, 04:31 PM
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Get the 69 block you do not need a roller for a DD the 69 has high nickle content & is more suited for your truck.

A roller is nice but you want to keep stock appearance with a carb set-up. Just throw some Cleveland 2v heads on it...

That is what I have in my 76 Boss 351w CLEVOR
 
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Old 02-18-2010, 02:21 PM
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Can you modify the block on a roller 351w in order to run a mechanical fuel pump?
 
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Old 02-19-2010, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by david00f150
Can you modify the block on a roller 351w in order to run a mechanical fuel pump?
I think you just get an early front timing cover, Good to go.

1996 351W ? - GrandMarq.NET - Panther Headquarters
 
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Old 02-19-2010, 10:28 AM
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no you cant run mechanical pump on the newer motors due to no hubcentric for the pump to use. if you change the timing cover, but then you would have to change the water pump and perhaps loose the serp belt setup.

a .040 bore would be max in my mind. i dont see why cooling would be an issue in that rig. the engine bay is plenty big and a 3 core rad with a good dual electric fan setup would work very well.
 
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Old 02-19-2010, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Kemicalburns
no you cant run mechanical pump on the newer motors due to no hubcentric for the pump to use. if you change the timing cover, but then you would have to change the water pump and perhaps loose the serp belt setup.

a .040 bore would be max in my mind. i dont see why cooling would be an issue in that rig. the engine bay is plenty big and a 3 core rad with a good dual electric fan setup would work very well.

Just throw a Com Cam in it then will it work I never reuse a stock cam.
 
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Old 02-19-2010, 02:28 PM
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I had a bit of cooling issues with my 351W at first. I was running 3 core aluminum radiator and shorty headers. I ended up cutting the inner fenders out and letting it breathe better. Once I did that, no longer had heat issues under my hood. Even with them, I wasn't overheating. Just hotter then I'd like.

I'd NEVER build another Bronco w/o going with a 351W or 5.8L EFI setup. Way too much natural power over the 302/5.0s. I ran circles around my buddies 347 Stroker with my slightly modified 351W w/ 289 heads. His was converted to EFI and I was still setup with an aluminum intake and 4 barrel Edelbrock. His gears were better as I was still running stock 3.07s and 35s too.
 
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Old 02-19-2010, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Broncoholic1
Just throw a Com Cam in it then will it work I never reuse a stock cam.
yes if you did a cam swap you could get the centric back in there but again you would lose the serp pully setup because that type of timing cover wont work with the reverse rotation pumps.

i would just run electric pump, then a regulator to keep the pressure around 7psi for the carb. ive had the mechanical pumps fail and once that happens your dead in the water. but if you just carry a spare frame mounted electric pump you can swap and continue on.
 
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Old 02-20-2010, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Kemicalburns
yes if you did a cam swap you could get the centric back in there but again you would lose the serp pully setup because that type of timing cover wont work with the reverse rotation pumps.

i would just run electric pump, then a regulator to keep the pressure around 7psi for the carb. ive had the mechanical pumps fail and once that happens your dead in the water. but if you just carry a spare frame mounted electric pump you can swap and continue on.

Oh,,,,,,,,,, the old dual fuel pumps...............
 
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