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There is an arrow on the Tee

 

Mine's doing this exact thing. Put coolant in when cold to min level, after about a tankful its back down to the tee outlet. My blackstone report listed potassium as high, which they said was coolant, but no sodium, so the coolant wasnt in the oil. They said it was possibly my EGR system. I talked to two mechanics who said the degas bottles like to run at the level of the tee outlet. I said I didnt care where they "liked" to run, that that didnt mean it was right. They say they dont have a clue, yet I can add coolant til im blue in the wallet and it still drinks it down to the level of the tee outlet. Now senix hit it on the head when he said he thought it was the EGR, but I dont know what to do, and dont have unlimited funds to let the dealer replace all kinds of crap and it still not be fixed. Now that Im over my 36k they want to do everything, but before they said it was normal. Starting to regret wanting this thing. When my coolant is hot it rises, but when I crack the cap it just hisses and coolant stays at the level it was at when I cracked the cap open. So mine doesnt rise, but its going somewhere. I thought they put millions of miles on these trucks before they started selling them to us? Give me one of those. And take this one they sold me back.

 

OK might be a stupid idea, but why not try running the truck at the t-level that it gravitates to, and see if it eventually drops below??

 

The problem with that is that at the tee level there are areas of the engine that are above that level of the outlet, therefore the reason FOR the min line: to be a gravitational level where coolant will settle to when cold. The level in mine will drop below the tee outlet when cold, and only reach the lower level of the outlet when the fluid gets hot, therefore I'm afraid to let it go any farther. But I hear you. Im sure it would eventually lose more, but like someone earlier said about air pockets and areas where the coolant may boil, I dont like the idea of letting there be an area where any air can enter the system, and the tee outlet level will do that if not brought up to the min line.

 

What about checking on top of the radiator. It is -1 this morning snow all over but if I went on to the truck is there a cap that could be opening on top of the radiator. Run the truck till the thermostats open and see if the level drops significantly. Add coolant directly into the radiator to ensure it is full while the motor is running. That should elimate any air, then seal it back up.

Again I would have to look when it gets a bit warmer to see if this could even be done.

 

I believe the only reason coolant for coolant to rise significantly after releasing pressure cap is because of air or combustion gases trapped in the cooling system. Another sign is coolant level dropping when engine is revved as the water pump can provide enough force to compress the air pocket.
Air or gas trapped in the heater core is also a likely culprit for no heat at low engine speeds but some heat at higher engine speeds.

 

For you who has coolant missing out of the degas bottle put some dye in it. That showed me mine puked it out at some point. My tech saw that and raised his eyebrow and said something is wrong...
One hand I want to bring it in Tue. as he requested but on the other it's running fine. Will it run fine in the long run? With hot spots? or what evers causing this?
Is this Hot Spot thing real? or did someone just theorize it?

 

cheezit where are you?????????

 

well I looked today at the routing of the coolant. there is no radiator cap that one could take off to ensure the system is full. You depend fully upon the degass bottle unless I have missed something. This is a flaw in the system imho.

 

Just checked mine again after towing and it's up to cold mark go figure.

 

ssharber, your 6.4 engine is warranteed for 100K. They should pressure test your EGR coolers and also your coolant system. Radiator is not warranteed for more than 36K but the EGR system is 100K.

 

what does pressure testing the EGR system show? that they are not leaking?

 

Yeah, the EGR coolers are double wall tubes. Inner passage is exhaust gas, outer passage is coolant, then the cover. If coolant is leaking through the inner wall to the gas chamber then it would get turned into steam instantly. When engine is shut off coolant may drip in the system. When engine is running, gas pressure could cause the coolant to have lots of pressure and puke it out the degas bottle.

Same with the old style EGR valve that has coolant running through it.

My degas bottle blew coolant for a week or so, then it quit. I have no idea what the deal was but I bet it was a stuck EGR valve for a while. I currently have a radiator leak so I add coolant now and then and the leak keeps the system pressure regulated. Maybe the leak is a good thing? who knows....

 

It's at the dealers today. Tech said it shouldn't be doing this..I am ready to just leave it alone as it runs fine. Coolant seems to hide then come back. He said inside pressure will do this. He was concerned with the puke it did. But with the dye in it he wants to check it out looking at everything for dye.
He mentioned head gaskets,egr's.etc. I bet he doesn't find anything and it puked because we kept adding too much coolant because it would be low in the degas bottle because it gets trapped down there somehow but will come back If I release the cap pressure. This is not always the case. Sometimes it's still at the proper level.
I know this is confusing but this is a complex issue and I can't pin down it's behavior yet.
Do they put an ultra violet light around looking for dye glow?