Did u ever get this fixed mine is doin similar stuff

 

Did u ever fix this problem

 

Had this same thing happen once, Tip on the ACT was gone.....

 

I replaced my map sensor and it fixed the problem.

 

Greetings from Finland.

I have a 1989 5,0L Club Wagon with similar symptoms. I use it daily as did the previous owner, but I would like to get it running perfectly. It starts ok, idle somewhat high though, but it usually lowers itself to normal. When on idle and stationary, and if pressing the gaspedal normally, the engine stalls instantly, as cut off. Its starts right away after this - no problem there. If you press the pedal very slowly, the engine does not stall. While driving constant speed, pressing the pedal causes also the engine to stall, but only for a particle of a second, after that it starts again from the speed, and then accelerates normally. There is no lack of power in any situation, allthough I have never driven similar model for comparison.

The seller told that he had some work done to it, and the shop guy had said that there was a ball missing from a part the seller pointed out: Idle Air bypass control-valve. I replaced that with a new one, but it had no effect whatsoever. I also replaced distributor cap and rotator - they were in a pretty bad state, but this also had no effect on the behavior of the engine.

I wired the EEC-plug, and got these codes:

.. 21 - 24 - 21 - 24 - - - 34 - 34 It seems it repeats the codes every time - is this normal? Chiltons say that because there was a long gap between the codes, the later one would be KOEO-codes. I could not find a way to perform KOER-test without a tester.

21 = ECT out of self-test range -> Engine Coolant Temperature sensor was an issue in this discussion, but did not get how it affects to this?
24 = ACT sensor out of self-test range -> Air Charge Temperature sensor - Can not find it in Chiltons, where is it?
34 = EVP voltage above closed limit -> EGR Valve Position-sensor?

Somehow seems unlikely that three sensors are faulty at the same time - it is possible though. Any way to test these sensors? Would one faulty cause codes for the others too? Might this be more likely to be a harness-related problem? Some module perhaps?

By the way: Chiltons does not contain full color coded wiring diagrams - where to get? (rebuilding original amplified audio with only parts of the harness intact..) I had AlldataDIY, but it had basically nothing more then the contents of users manual there so it was worthless.

 

Arkisto,
Sounds like a bad TPS.
Check it with an analog VOM on the ohms scale and see if the needle moves smooth with no jumps as you open the throttle slowly (engine not running, TPS unplugged).
Codes 21 & 24 sounds like a cold engine.

 

replace coolant temperature senser..20$ part, 5min fix. Just did mine. I've read all these threads trying to find the solution. Saw a few times that the coolant sensor was recommended, but it really got my attention when it was explained what the sensor does when it goes bad...enriched fuel mix. Figured I'd create a account and share the info.

 

y'all check the dates on some of these posts...

 

Well none of them predate my 1989 Club Wagon, so I guess they are still valid

 

I did replace the CT-sensor(and the CT-switch feeding the gauge and now it works too), the EGR-valve-sensor and the TPS-sensor. I figured that it is best to fix all of the sensors suspected at the same time as they were not that expensive, and located around the same area. The problem went away, the car drives nicely!

However there still is a fault code present: "34 EGR VALVE POSITION/PRSSURE FEEDBACK EGR CLOSED VOLTAGE > EXPECTED" I suppose the EGR-valve itself might be faulty - Does it matter?

I think your explanation pointing the CT-sensor might be correct, it fits the symptoms. Now the van seems to run smoother, effortless, and there even seems to be more grunt. I suspect this might have an effect on fuel economy too.. To be sure, I might just test the TPS-sensor I removed - if it works, the faulty part was surely the CT-sensor.

I figured I have enough purpose for a device for diagnosis, as I have several newer projects, so I bought a Creader Professional 229-tester. It mainly does cars of today with OBDII, but to my surprise, I could get adapters for my Club Wagon as well.. It has nothing more than the ECU, but it does work with US-manufactured Fomoco-cars from 1984.. (Even GM from 92) Its is was kind of creepy to discuss with my -89 van with an Android-device..

 

Ok', well i like to say im entering the classic truck era with this 97 f150 4.6 L.B, S.C, 4x4.' So now that i have your attn?' I am aware this post is from 2010' so here goes nothing', ive been dealing with this exact same problem my truck was running great I had it dialed in as I was leaving work from there on the freeway for about 20 minutes of driving at about 70 miles an hour truck started to stumble acting like it wanted to die and like it was running out of gas. So my question is did you ever solve or come up with a solution for this problem? Id really appreciate it!!"? I'm trying to rehab this truck and make it a classic but it seems as soon as I get it dialed in and running like a raped ape something always happens! Thanx., and I look forward to your reply?"

 

Mine got fixed, but I'm not sure which sensor it was of the three (CT, EGR and TPS). Yours is a newer motor, so I don't know how much of this would apply. Mine also had the symptoms al the time, not just after a while of driving.

Have you read the fault codes? If not, thats is what you should do first. I suspect there is a thread that contains guidelines for your truck too.

 

HelpCheck battery

 

Hi there, I have a 1989 Ford F150, that likes to idle great but as soon as I put it into gear it chugs as if its about to die. I have changed the PIP sensor, the throttle positioning sensor, the coolant temperature sensor, the air charge temperature sensor, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and the IAC sensor.

 

s20acervantes; You should start your own new thread.
From what you have read in this thread and others you know you have to accomplish some basic testing.
Since it idles, check the Code status.
Check your Fuel Pressure.
You might want to invest into a multimeter if you don't own one.
Don't respond here, create your own new thread, cut and paste your original explanation in your new thread.