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Well Its been nothing but problems since I bought it. So here is what I have done or had done.
New lift pump, New injection pump (turned up), New injectors, New Batteries, New Transmission Rebuilt, with the Billet heavy duty torque converter and all updated parts on the inside of the transmission. Dropped front tank cleaned out screen, (lots of grass)?? Pulled off the top of the motor, replaced both head gaskets, val-cover gaskets, new thermostat. Had the radiator hot tanked and cleaned up, with new paint. Just drove it for the past 2 days. I have a small leak at the radiator.. I need to tighten a hose and that's that. Also forgot to add, New 3" exhaust from the down pipe back blowing through a glass pack.
Now I have noticed that my cruise control don't work, BUT my e-brake light wont go off. I'm guessing This is the cause of that. Anyone agree with me?
You have a vacumn leak, on the older one it would be at the coffee can on the driverside fenderwell. I'm not sure on yours though, Too new for a poorboy.
There is a brownish color algae that does grow in diesel.
And it makes a mess of fuel filters.
If it was algae, I would run several tanks of fuel with a very strong does of Diesel Kleen through the truck to kill the algae.
Also was there any water in the fuel tank?
The water seems to help the algae grow.
I have kept it and it looks like grass clippings. This was found before i had a new lift pump and injection pump put on. They said it looked good in there. But Ill Run the Diesel kleen anyway.
I don't know about a '94, but on my '84 the parking brake light was always on. It was because the cable sticks, and the parking brake lever doesn't come all the way up when you hit the release. I finally disconnected the wire from the switch.
I suppose the cruise control might be wired to become disabled when the parking brake is on. If you disconnect the wire from the switch on the parking brake and the light goes out and your cc starts working, then you'll know that was it.
The cruise control should be tied into the truck brake lights to disable the cruise control when the brakes are applied.
The brake light in the dash can be turned on by low vacuum, parking brake pedal or the switch in the line proportioning valve that is set when you have a problem with either the front or rear brake lines.
Finding out what is causing the light to come on is usually sort of easy, test vacuum is a good start.
If the heater will switch to floor, defrost or vent, you probably have vacuum.
Pull the parking brake release, pull the parking brake pedal up with your foot, does the light go out then?
If so, you probably have E brake cable problems.
If neither of the above turn the light out, the switch in the proportioning valve is set, to turn it off you will have to bleed either the front of rear brakes and stab the brake pedal a couple times to reset the switch.
A blown brake line or wheel cylinder/caliper piston seals are what sets that switch to turn the light on, and also shuts off brake fluid to the circuit affected by the leak.
The cruise control should be tied into the truck brake lights to disable the cruise control when the brakes are applied.
The brake light in the dash can be turned on by low vacuum, parking brake pedal or the switch in the line proportioning valve that is set when you have a problem with either the front or rear brake lines.
Finding out what is causing the light to come on is usually sort of easy, test vacuum is a good start.
If the heater will switch to floor, defrost or vent, you probably have vacuum.
Pull the parking brake release, pull the parking brake pedal up with your foot, does the light go out then?
If so, you probably have E brake cable problems.
If neither of the above turn the light out, the switch in the proportioning valve is set, to turn it off you will have to bleed either the front of rear brakes and stab the brake pedal a couple times to reset the switch.
A blown brake line or wheel cylinder/caliper piston seals are what sets that switch to turn the light on, and also shuts off brake fluid to the circuit affected by the leak.
Ok Ill run though these options. I know that my heater switches fine. And I can pull up on the e brake and it still stays on. But If im going up hill and mash the pedal it will go out for a but till i let off.
Ok Ill run though these options. I know that my heater switches fine. And I can pull up on the e brake and it still stays on. But If im going up hill and mash the pedal it will go out for a but till i let off.
Right there tells me you have weak vacuum pump or a leak somewhere. High rpm's is building just enough vacuum to turn out the light.
Right there tells me you have weak vacuum pump or a leak somewhere. High rpm's is building just enough vacuum to turn out the light.
How can i check the vacuum pump? I have fixed a white hose up by the passenger side up top. going into my fire wall a while back. It was all chewed up and falling apart. Could this be a possible leak? But like i said the heater switches from vent to defrost to floor fine.
Start right at the v-pump on the engine. Unplug the hose and check vacuum. The main thing too is the recovery, or how quickly it draws max vacuum. I think specs are atleast 21 Hg at sealevel within 30 seconds. If the pump meets requirements then start chasing hoses from the manifold on the firewall by disconnecting one at a time and plugging it. If the vacuum starts to build quickly then that's the hose leaking somewhere.
Start right at the v-pump on the engine. Unplug the hose and check vacuum. The main thing too is the recovery, or how quickly it draws max vacuum. I think specs are atleast 21 Hg at sealevel within 30 seconds. If the pump meets requirements then start chasing hoses from the manifold on the firewall by disconnecting one at a time and plugging it. If the vacuum starts to build quickly then that's the hose leaking somewhere.
Ok, took a look around and found a vacuum line not attached. Just under the brake master cylinder. The hose off the pump goes to a junction where there are about 5 that come out. The one in the front goes to the pump. The one in the back goes to the brake booster. The one just in front of this one is the one unhooked, but I dont see anything close to it that it would go to. Any idea where this one goes? Its around 6 inches long.