Elton Noway-

Awesome posts- thanks for the pictures! The follow-up makes all the difference on the quality of the forum thread and those picutures are so useful I think anybody could diagnose the problem and take on the repair with confidence if need be.

 

i just did mine as well. good pics on the whole process. i also just removed my cap and plug wires for the install. i used a rubber felpro gasket instead of cork however..

 

Got mine replaced today too! Funny thing, it had a badly installed original (I think) gasket as well, only mine was right in the corner. Got a replacement at the Ford dealer ($35, probably paid way too much, right?) with no bolt gaskets; hope the old ones don't start to leak...

Thanks to all for the tips. Simple job jut took alot to clean all of the gunk of the engine and cover. It's not the cleanest area onn the truck!

Cheers!

 

Glad to have found this thread. Mine just started leaking (136,000 miles) and this thread provided the information I needed to tackle this myself. I'm posting to add a couple bits of info.

Not arguing with the nitpicker, but I'm finding the gasket listed in most places as a "pushrod cover gasket" in case anyone else is looking to do this job. (Applies to the 4.9 6 Y-code engine)

Also, the good Felpro rubber gasket can be found at Autozone for $10.99, part #PS13809R (Autozone doesn't state whether it is their part # or the manufacturer's part #).

 

I will be replacing the pushrod cover gasket tomorrow on my brothers 94 F150 with 160k miles and the 4.9L engine.

I got the gasket from O'reillys and its rubber felpro gasket.

Is it a good idea to apply a bead of black RTV on the edge of the gasket all around on the inside? So the gasket sticks to the inspection cover and its fairly easy to put back in? I dont want to do the job twice and now when he shuts off his engine, the engine POURS oil from the pushrod cover....

Let me know...

 

Bump anyone?

 

No sealer is needed for the rubber gasket.
You can can use a dab of it in a couple of spots
to hold it in place.

If I recall correctly, the gasket has some tabs that should
keep it in position without any glue or sealer.

Once the push rod tube cover is installed, you can
verify the gasket is positioned properly by verifying
the tabs are visible.

Make sure you install the new grommets that surround
the bolts. No sealer is needed. Torque the
bolts to 70-105 inch lbs.

Remove the coil and distributor cap to make the installation
easier.

 

Was going ask about this, but got all the info I need here, leaking pretty bad, I need to do this. Fill the oil, check the gas...

 

Wow so glad I found this post. I found a 96 f150 with 300 a year ago and have fixed a few problems like hard starts after it warmed up. Every thing works fine but have been replacing plastic parts and the like. Now I'm focusing on my leak although it's not bad yet about half way down the dipstick after 5 months it is making a mess. I will make sure it's the culprit but symptoms are pointing this way

 

Amazing thread. Putting this on my to do list. Thank you everyone

 

You can do it- just set aside a couple hours if you're really meticulous. You'll be surprised how much junk can end up baked to that cover. I started running Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic 5w-40 (CJ-4/SN-rated) and have seen a dramatic difference in the cleanliness of the crankcase and anything the oil touches. That stuff is magic for cleaning.

Don't overtorque those bolts! Follow the instructions carefully that come with the gasket and you'll be fine

 

Also wanted to mention my 1996 4.9 only has 64k miles on it now. It had 50k when I bought it a year ago. I am a little worried about the seals as I hope they haven't dry rotted and I start getting leaks. I am going to add Lucas conditioner.

Also wanted to mention to fix my hard start problem after warming up I had to replace the fuel pumps. Pressure was good and I had a CEL with lean bank codes. Everyone said it wasn't the fuel pumps but I changed the fuel pumps anyway. $500 gamble and it payed off in spades!

 

Sorry for the thread revival, but I wanted to just put that they are 1/2 in. Bolts. I couldn't find the size any where and thought it might be helpful to someone

 

I'm embarrassed, but I'm stuck here. How do you remove the bracket holding down the oil dipstick tube?

I removed the little fake "nut" thing that's shown in the photo above. However, the bracket is still on the stud. Do you somehow pull the bracket off the stud? There doesn't seem to be enough play in the dipstick tube to pull it off.

I'm guessing you have to remove the dipstick? I tried loosening the dipstick nut, but that seems to turn the entire dipstick and bending the bracket. I'm pretty sure that's not the way it's supposed to work?

The shop manual doesn't mention anything about this at all...

 

I don't remember exactly, but I remember the way I did it made me very nervous. I think if you turn the nut on the dipstick tube it does rotate; you only need to rotate it enough to get it out of your way. If I remember correctly, the distributor cap and rotor need to come off as well, but I definitely did not remove it and got mine off easily enough.

I do remember the vast amount of sludge that you will probably find on the inside of your cover- so be ready to do a very intensive cleaning and capture of a lot of oily mess.