Cheap way to get 2in of lift?
#17
#20
My thoughts...
FRONT:
Moog 844 (or whatever brand F350 4x4 coils... I used Raybestos, $80 - RockAuto), 2" spacers with bolt extenders ($50 - eBay), longer shocks (I used Monroe GasMagnums for an F350 4x4, $25 each - RockAuto), professional alignment and new camber bushings ($ depends... find a good 4x4 shop)
This should net you EASILY 3".
I got 1.5" out of just the coils in my 2WD 150 with a 302/E4OD.
Spacers are still in the garage. Not sure if I am gonna even use them.
I was able to get it aligned using only 1.5 degree bushings so there is a lot of room left.
The ride is stiffer, but I think better. Not as "floaty".
I clear 31's with ease.
REAR:
Full length AAL ($85 - RockAuto (Rancho 1-2"), Stock F150 4x4 leaf packs ($ depends... I am looking in the junkyards), new shackle and main-eye bushings ($20-ish), longer shocks (again I used Monroe GasMagnums for an F350 4x4, $25 each - RockAuto), new u-bolts ($20-ish).
This too should net you at least 3".
I have the shocks in my garage now and am looking for a decent set of 150 4x4 leaf packs.
I sit level now, so I don't know if I will do the AAL. If I do it will be in conjunction with the 2" spacers because I want to keep the level stance.
Either way I will press in new bushings and use all new bolts.
I have been lifting, and wheeling Jeeps for over ten years and have seen some scary stuff out there. Like those pics with the stacked blocks and welded-together-u-bolts.
I do not like lift blocks or body lifts.
My ideas are mine alone, but I would consider them safe because I am using almost all OEM parts or parts that were designed to be used together.
Also keep in mind that at 3" you MAY need to look in to radius arm drop brackets... I can't give much guidance on that as I am new to these Ford front ends... I know much more about Jeep coil and leaf sprung systems.
HTH
-cmc-
FRONT:
Moog 844 (or whatever brand F350 4x4 coils... I used Raybestos, $80 - RockAuto), 2" spacers with bolt extenders ($50 - eBay), longer shocks (I used Monroe GasMagnums for an F350 4x4, $25 each - RockAuto), professional alignment and new camber bushings ($ depends... find a good 4x4 shop)
This should net you EASILY 3".
I got 1.5" out of just the coils in my 2WD 150 with a 302/E4OD.
Spacers are still in the garage. Not sure if I am gonna even use them.
I was able to get it aligned using only 1.5 degree bushings so there is a lot of room left.
The ride is stiffer, but I think better. Not as "floaty".
I clear 31's with ease.
REAR:
Full length AAL ($85 - RockAuto (Rancho 1-2"), Stock F150 4x4 leaf packs ($ depends... I am looking in the junkyards), new shackle and main-eye bushings ($20-ish), longer shocks (again I used Monroe GasMagnums for an F350 4x4, $25 each - RockAuto), new u-bolts ($20-ish).
This too should net you at least 3".
I have the shocks in my garage now and am looking for a decent set of 150 4x4 leaf packs.
I sit level now, so I don't know if I will do the AAL. If I do it will be in conjunction with the 2" spacers because I want to keep the level stance.
Either way I will press in new bushings and use all new bolts.
I have been lifting, and wheeling Jeeps for over ten years and have seen some scary stuff out there. Like those pics with the stacked blocks and welded-together-u-bolts.
I do not like lift blocks or body lifts.
My ideas are mine alone, but I would consider them safe because I am using almost all OEM parts or parts that were designed to be used together.
Also keep in mind that at 3" you MAY need to look in to radius arm drop brackets... I can't give much guidance on that as I am new to these Ford front ends... I know much more about Jeep coil and leaf sprung systems.
HTH
-cmc-
#21
I also did the f350 coil springs and got close to 2". Really like the ride quality. I run 31's and I'm sure that 33's would fit no problem. In the rear, I added a leaf to each spring pack and removed the factory block. Truck sits deadnuts level. I actually prefer a rake though so the blocks are going back in.
#22
Spring blocks
BCHAULER-
When you put those blocks back in make sure you have the taper going in the proper direction or you'll have u-joint vibrations, real bad, that's if they are tapered at all.
I had my rear springs beefed at a spring shop on my 78'4x4 and had that problem. They told me it was because I had a leaf added and did nothing. I discovered it on my own lying on my back under it and studying the situation when I noticed the taper. Worth a check b-4 install just in case you weren't aware of it.
Good Luck
When you put those blocks back in make sure you have the taper going in the proper direction or you'll have u-joint vibrations, real bad, that's if they are tapered at all.
I had my rear springs beefed at a spring shop on my 78'4x4 and had that problem. They told me it was because I had a leaf added and did nothing. I discovered it on my own lying on my back under it and studying the situation when I noticed the taper. Worth a check b-4 install just in case you weren't aware of it.
Good Luck
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