I would pull the turbo out. It's only 3 bolts and a couple of exaust clamps. Then everythings right there. You can check the ipr, has the stc been changed? I just did it. Coulpe of hours to take it all out then. Then a few to put it all back in. Stc upgrade is 40. The ipr was 212.

 

What is the "STC" in this context?

 

snap-to-connector, it's a fitting that connects the hpop to the engine.

 

thats what im gonna do next oull the hpop and look at it too as there is a ball and spring that apparently like to pop out, anyone have an exploded view thats actually useable?

 

and whats the upgrade? or you mean replacement from Ford

 

07 6.0:
HPOP, Turbo, LPOP+front cover replaced May-Nov 2016.

no issues until Nov 2017 then Cam sensor went out. During that down time the crank sensor was replaced the EGR valve was replaced and the IPR was replaced. All due to codes hoping up and reading forums. Ended up being Cam sensor.

Truck ran great until Aug 2018. Got a batch of bad fuel. Tried running some fuel treatment and driving it out. Wasn't a good idea. Had to get it towed last 80 miles of road trip.During this time at idle i would lose oil pressure. Drained all the fuel replaced both filters and the water separator. Changed the oil while i was in the process. Had more oil than it should but didn't look milky or anything. Had a slight hint of fuel. After all that was repaired and replaced ran good with exception of still losing oil pressure at idle; for about two weeks then back to crank no start. Codes said low circuit voltage to injectors 1 3 and 5. Let it sit and thought about it. did some research nothing came about. Decided to replace cam sensor. She started right up with so much white smoke i could not get the bay door opened fast enough turned it off. Continued to run like that for about two weeks. Didn't drive it anywhere would just start it and let it idle. still losing oil pressure after idling for about 10 minutes. Decided to delete the EGR cooler. Order the kit. Kit arrived pulled it into the bay and replaced it. Now truck cranks no start. I current don't have means of checking any pressures. Replaced the oil pressure sending unit today. pulled batteries and they are on charge for the night. Tomorrow will check the FCIM voltage. Cranks good sounds good just no fire. Been dealing with this for 2 weeks now. Even went back and removed everything to ensure i didn't forget something the first time. repaired a couple wires that appeared to have some damage to the pig tail. (oil pressure sending unit, coolant sensor and alternator)

 

Where i sit right now.

Before i pulled the truck out of the shop and checked the codes and alternator and replaced the oil sending unit we pulled the oil filter out held the plunger down and was getting oil into the canister. Now that is not happening which leads me to believe the LPOP has spun again. Over the last week or so i have charge the batteries and replaced the Cam sensor. WE hooked up my buddies scan tool to see what is going on. i have about 1.2v at the ICP, toping out at 217 RPM, no oil pressure and 48.6v at the FICM. We took the belt off and tried still not getting more than 200 RPMs. Pulled the IPR and hooked some air up to it. It is good. You can visually see it open and close with the power. Still no Codes. My plan this week time permitted is to pull it in and pull the LPOP and do a visual on that. Is there anything that i am missing or have not thought of? Anything at this point. I have considered pulling my ICP and hooking air to the block to see for an High Pressure oil leak but the canister not filling up leads me to believe that it is an LPOP.

 

Seems to me you have sufficient rpm's and sufficient high pressure oil pressure to start.

After replacing the oil pressure switch, does the dash gauge still drop after idling?

Edit (4-12): I see you say that it now is not flowing oil to the filter,

 

It will not start now. The dash is not registering any oil pressure and the oil filter housing is not getting any oil.

 

Going back to read old posts! Having 1.2 volts on the ICP and no oil flow to the oil filter was confusing. IMO can't have both .......... (unless something is wrong w/ the ICP sensor)

Are you still "making oil" and does it still have a hint of fuel? Fuel diluted oil can cause a number of issues.

It does sound like the LPOP gears and front cover need to be inspected, but also check out the low pressure oil regulator first.

 

You appear to have a low pressure oil pump failing. You need oil pumped to the high pressure pump to get the minimum 500psi to start the engine.

 

 

LPOP replaced. Cranks pretty good. Still not getting more than 200 rpms. Still no oil to oil filter. Accidently bumped it over with the low pressure regulator out and it did not dump oil. Idk if that's good or bad. Doesnt sound like a good thing.

 

Did you mean 200 rpms or 200 psig?

From your readings your rpms were 155. That is at the BARE MINIMUM!

You may very well have air in the high pressure oil system that needs to be purged out. You do that with cranking, but you need to ensure your batteries are kept charged and healthy or you will have a FICM to replace.

 

RPMs. Have one one charge at all times and jumper cables hooked up to forklift