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Well I'm half way done with my carb preheater. The housing for the carb part is done, but have to make the shroud part around the headers and hook up a hose.
This may sound odd but I'm thinking of hooking the hose to the front of the snorkel and run hot air all the time. Even when it is in the 40's here my truck doesn't warm up as hot as it would in warmer weather. Has anyone tried this and have any success with it?
The way it is made I can take it off during the summer and just run the aftermarket air cleaner.
I was thinking of doing the same thing for my 2bbl swap I plan on doing next summer.
The only thing I can think of is to angle the inlet side of your heat box to the rear. I pickup alot of snow from drift busting here in ND and thought that that may aleviate some of the carb icing issues I currently have. Do you have a hot water intake? I think at 0f and up you should recive sufficent heat to warm the charge.
Do you have headers? it appears so. I intend to go with EFI manifolds and braze a box on to them. Ducting it through all three of the forward manifold. I would like to use a ported vaccum switch but have had difficulty finding temp points to reference off of. Another idea would be a manual pull cable in the cab. At 0 I would think the warm water sufficent as I said earlier but at lower temps I think that feeding some warmed air would greatly aid vaporization and allow carb de icing. at -40 fuel dont vaporize very well.
I had the stock air cleaner that came on the truck but it is made for a one barrel and is too large to fit when I put the 4 barrel on it. The inlet is all I could use off of it.
I do have headers so it will take a little bit to fashion something up. I plan on making a bracket to hold it in place and mount it to the frame so I can take it off.
I'm going to try and go to the salvage yard this weekend and see if I can find a extra radiator shroud so I can mount a electric fan I got here while back. It should fit in the factory hole for the fan blades. That should help the truck stay warmed also.
Being less inclined to work with gadgets like sensors/switches I think flip's idea of using a manual cable to run the gate would work for me quite well.