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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 07:51 PM
  #31  
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cheezit
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From: N. Fort Worth, tx
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Originally Posted by vloney
On your IDS, theres a little "scroll" at the bottom left. With the vehicle identified after hookup click on the scroll, that'll show all information pertaining to the electronics and all modules in that vehicle.
ya. thanks for the info I knew it was there somewere. i just dont ever look at it. dont pay much attention to the calabration codes.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 08:13 PM
  #32  
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Okay, I've read a lot of positives here... anyone have any negatives to add? Mine is due for a re-flash, but I am hesitant to take it in because some have reported sizeable drops in power with the latest re-flash. Anyone have any idea why this would be?
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 08:25 PM
  #33  
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From: Taylorsville, UT
Originally Posted by Erwin8r
Okay, I've read a lot of positives here... anyone have any negatives to add? Mine is due for a re-flash, but I am hesitant to take it in because some have reported sizeable drops in power with the latest re-flash. Anyone have any idea why this would be?

I had no drop in power, in fact, I have better power, especially when the engine is still cold. I also notced a mpg increase on the lie-o-meter. I am topping off the tank tomorrow and will check the hand calculated mpg to see if I did infact get an increase.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 05:49 PM
  #34  
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From: Coastal Alabama
I just got back from my trip from Mobile Al to Gatlinberg Tn. first tank headed North got 15.76 per hand calculation filling up to the neck running 75-80 mph I never run that hard usually but a friend has a 6.4 and was running along with me. I couldn't let him show me up, also I went up as high in elevation as 5028 ft the old boy just purred seems to start better as well I am glad I did it
 
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 06:01 PM
  #35  
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utjer
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From: Taylorsville, UT
Update on the mpg increase. It did infact increase. I hand calculate mine and here are the results. The last 3 fill-ups I got 12.9, 13.6, and 13.5. The 12.9 was from longer warm ups from the extreme cold. I filled up the tank today and I now got 14.7. This is about 50/50 city/hwy driving. We will see over the next few weeks on if this holds or not but so far it is looking like a pretty good thing.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 07:11 PM
  #36  
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Friday afternoon I drove about 300 miles, the over head display showed 17.8 when I got home. This is up from last week when it only showed 14.7 for the same trip. This weekend however, I started having some issues with the EGR again, so I unplugged it. Drove back to Texas today with no runability issues which I assume is due to unplugging the EGR but did notice a drop in MPG (per the over head) it was down to 15.8 when I arrived in Dallas. Is there a possibility that the unplugged EGR could be the culprit here?
 
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 09:40 PM
  #37  
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Hmm... Removing or disconnecting the EGR should improve mileage. It seems that introducing spent exhaust gasses into the combustion process (what the EGR does) makes the process less efficient.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 05:43 AM
  #38  
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From: Oklahoma
Originally Posted by Erwin8r
Hmm... Removing or disconnecting the EGR should improve mileage. It seems that introducing spent exhaust gasses into the combustion process (what the EGR does) makes the process less efficient.
Agreed, as to the process of recirculating exaust gases. However, very seldom, if ever is there a perfect combustion going on inside of the cylinder, the EGR is intended to lower emmisions by recirculating the exaust gases in an attempt to complete the burn on any unburnt fuel in the exaust gases, (hydrocarbons). I just wasn't sure if there would be enough unburnt fuel in the mix to create better fuel economy in a high mileage engine where the initial combustion could likely be even less efficient. Perhaps I'm just overthinking the issue.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 07:16 AM
  #39  
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I just bought a 2004 with the 6.0 L and have a couple of questions. I test drove it in the afternoon and it ran great, almost can't feel it idle with more power than I could shake a stick at.

Well, the next morning I started it, after waiting for the glow plug, and it sounded like !$%Q@$%. I let it idle for a minute and then crawled through our neighborhood. I think I would have had more power on my bicycle. It idled high, would not shift and I had a hard time getting over 10 mph. After a few minutes it got better but took probably 10 minutes to feel the way it did when I test drove it.

Would a reflash correct some of this?
 
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 07:48 AM
  #40  
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From: Claremore, OK
Originally Posted by cyclone3565
I just bought a 2004 with the 6.0 L and have a couple of questions. I test drove it in the afternoon and it ran great, almost can't feel it idle with more power than I could shake a stick at.

Well, the next morning I started it, after waiting for the glow plug, and it sounded like !$%Q@$%. I let it idle for a minute and then crawled through our neighborhood. I think I would have had more power on my bicycle. It idled high, would not shift and I had a hard time getting over 10 mph. After a few minutes it got better but took probably 10 minutes to feel the way it did when I test drove it.

Would a reflash correct some of this?
Sounds like the truck was stone cold. What was the ambient temperature when you started it? How long did you let it idle before you took off? Reflashing the truck isn't a fix-all, but it can help with some cold starting issues.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 07:52 AM
  #41  
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Good Morning,

it was about 38 degrees. I let it idle through its various RPM phases for about 3 minutes. I can tell the computer is doing something because the idle changes. After about 3 minutes it settled down a bit, that's when I put it in drive. Still low power for a few minutes of driving, but borderline acceptable.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 08:01 AM
  #42  
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it behaves the same every morning. Also, when I go to lunch after it sat for about 5-6 hours, it is okay, but not great.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 08:29 AM
  #43  
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From: Millbrook, AL
Sounds like you've got some stiction issues, try some new oil, perhaphs 5W-40 and an OEM filter. Then move onto the new flash. Then start thinking about a bad injector(s). Make sure you go through the small/cheap stuff ie oil, fuel filters, before going into the more pricey items like injectors. Make sure to use all OEM filters, it's just not worth the risk to use "will fits". There is a boat load of things it could be but this seems to be the most common problems people are having when involving cold starts/no power. Plugging the truck in for a few hours or all night will help the issue but it will not resolve it. I'm sure the techs will help out on this one.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 08:31 AM
  #44  
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Replaced all filters (oil, both fuel, air)this weekend as well as an oil change. Ford seemed to recommend 15-40 so that is what it got, all synthetic.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 08:41 AM
  #45  
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From: Millbrook, AL
I use 15W-40/dino, and generally down here in mid-Alabama it's not an issue, I generally plug mine in for at least 3 hours if the temp drops to 35 or below. However, I was having a cold start problem, similiar to yours and mine just came back from the dealer...Still under emmissions warranty. Needed 4 new injectors and it also got the new flash, runs great now. Plugged in or not.
 
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