the Dealership is wrong

buy a el cheapo $10 key from eBay that looks like the factory key. get the Dealership to go in and program that key to your truck.

then you'll have 2 keys. enter the programming mode described in the very first post of this thread and program your combo key yourself.


many Dealerships and key cutting places refuse to do this "mod". it's about liability. the keys aren't exactly cheap and they don't want to be held liable if it doesn't work. sucks, but that's where things stand

 

Plus, they want you to buy the key from them, so they can overcharge you for it.

Stewart

 

Sweet, thanks a lot! Ill give it a shot.

 

For those with 1 key and who want a quick...and relatively cheap fix compared to buying from the Dealership

Walmart and certain other stores now clone keys. They copy the RFID tag on your 1 working key and "clone" that tag to a blank RFID chip/key.

You still can't program your own keys, but at least you'll have 2 working keys. It was roughly $65 for the keys

 

Are you stating that obtaining a 'cloned' key would not allow you to program others with the 2-key method? If so, I'm assuming it would be because the vehicle would be reading the same key. Please confirm.

 

Confirmed, that is correct.

Stewart

 

I gotta try a cloned key. I've only had one key for my truck since I got it in Dec 2008. I'm kinda worried that the key is gonna die. It does happen occasionally in trucks here at work, I've just been too cheap to buy one at the stealership.

 

I was able to successfully get two cloned keys from my local Ace Hardware store this past weekend. Not the ideal solution but it satisfies the requirements.

 

How much does the cloning cost? I found a locksmith who will cut and program a 2nd key (properly) for just $65 if I provide the blank. If cloning is expensive I may as well do it the right way.

 

That price is in the ballpark for what I paid including the key blank. I wound up purchasing a blank from Ace and, although the key blank is not an OEM key (this one has a battery inside), it works just fine.
I had purchased a blank off of E-bay trying to save a little money but it wasn't compatible with the cloning machine (I had it cut and it does everything but start the engine).

 

Tylus- Great thread, and I have a related issue with my PATS. The "Theft" light came on and my 01Ex died halfway out the driveway. Now, I can reset the SecuriLock, there are not codes and the light continues to flash and obviously wont start. Any suggestions? Thanks.

 

Gary for some reason the control module has forgotten the transponder code from the key. Do you have a second key programed for the truck? At this point you may need to have the truck towed to the dealer for the system to be re-programed. Do you have more than 1 key? I keep a minimum of 3 programed keys for each of my PATS equipped vehicles. Take the paper work proving ownership of the truck as Ford has mandated that QWNERSHIP MUST BE PROVEN BEFORE A KEY CAN BE ACTIVATED.

 

Thanks, at this point that is the only thing that makes any sense. I appreciate the feedback!

 

Just wanted to keep this thread up to date with a few pieces of information. I have access to a variety of Ford vehicles because I work for a government agency and our motor pool fleet contains a mix of Ford sedans, trucks, and SUVs. (In addition to GM and Chrysler vehicles.)

Both pieces of information above are false.

False.

I programmed my 2000 Excursion Remote to work on the following vehicles:

2006 Escape Hybrid
2008 Fusion
2010 Expedition
2013 Transit Connect
2015 Explorer

I also programmed their remotes to work my Excursion.

There were times in the programming and sharing of remotes where I had one remote working two or more vehicles side by side.

 

Yup. My buddy programmed his OEM F150 Lightning remote to work simultaneously on his wife's Lincoln Navigator. I did too for my L and my wife's Ex.

But, in order to accomplish this, you have to program the remote for both trucks at the same time. At least that's how I did it.

Stewart