Hey Everyone, interesting stuff here and a lot of activity. I became the second owner of a 65 Custom Cab Shortbed Flair Style in 2005. It was in good condition and showed 140K on the odometer. Oh its a big block 352 with 3 on the tree. The PO said he had the engine rebuilt around 75K but did not keep records. Currently has just shy of 200,000 miles and has some issues. Since I've owned it it has had new plugs etc twice, regular oil changes, rear wheel bearings replaced, a brake job, carburerator rebuilt, couple of starters, a solenoid tires and a battery. I've been taking it to a local shop for major stuff, otherwise its a diy. I have limited movement in my right arm and not a lot of space so I am limited in diy. A tune up ago I couldn't get the timing right so I took it into the shop and they did a compression check and said that 2 cylinders were not showing any compression but that they got it tuned so it ran smoothly, it would just stutter or hesitate under load. A couple of months later the truck stopped running when my son was driving it so I told him to have it towed to the repair shop. My son said it would go into gear with some mashing noises but would not move when he left the clutch out. I figured it was the clutch. The repair place called me and said it was the rear end, that it was full of water (we have had record rain in Atlanta lately) and needed to be rebuilt to the tune of $900 plus. Seems high to me would like your advice. I have also looked into rebuilt engines and a Jasper (they use a 360) with new clutch and rear end is a little short of $4K. I know one can't expect these to run forever. My son is in the process of buying a house and will have space to do a diy overhaul with my help but needs something to get to and from work in the interim. I suggested he get the rear end done and when he closes on the loan buy a new commuter and keep the truck as a project. I have thought a lot of keeping it but would like to put a modern front end with power brakes and steering, a better mileage engine, maybe a 302 or even a 6, maybe even A/C and an auto trans. Keep the outside totally stock. Anyone been there and know of a reliable and reasonable shop in the Atlanta are that does these kind of conversions? ..........So 2 questions I guess, ..the $900 differential, and 2...........approximate cost to modernize and recomendation of a shop to do it.

Thanks for your help.

Bill

 

I am not sure of the shop rates in atlanta But even though you are talking mostly bolt in customizing shop hours will eat you up. If your son can help you I suggest buying a 73 to 79 donor pickup that has the motor tranny,air conditioning that you want and swap them. It is basically bolt in and you can just rebuild the motor or have a shop build the motor for you.

 

also with a 73-79 chassis, you can get power steering and power brakes.

And an fyi, the 300 6 is a great engine, I may suggest doing some research in the inline 6 forum, pretty much the 300 is all they talk about.

Ford Inline Six, 200, 250, 4.9L / 300 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

Hi Bill, Welcome to Ford Truck Enthusiasts! Joel is correct on the Disc brake swap and power steering, I just finished my power disc brake swap on my truck and i can tell you it is like driving a whole different truck and everything will just bolt on. A 300 I6 all the way up to 1995 or 6 would be a good swap if mileage is important, the newer 300's come with fuel injection from what i understand. the rearend from a 73-79 could work but you must move the leaf spring plates inward because there is a frame width difference between the years.
Good Luck with it, and ask all the questions you want or have.

 

Bill, I suspect you need valve work to get compression back, engine should still be in good shape. Have what is called a leak down test done. Exhaust valves with non-hardened seats are like the culpret.

The Ford 9" can easily have a another chunk swapped in and new bearings for a couple hundred bucks. Way too many available to rebuild one.

I doubt your truck is in as bad of shape as you might have been led to believe.

my 2



John

 

Plus anyone who tunes a FE with two dead cylinders and makes it purr with a slight hesitation is pure BS on their part.......I lean to John thinking of sunken/worn valve seats. The FE will be well down on power with two dead holes.

Rain does not just get in to the rear unless you were well over axle deep in standing water. If the truck is at home now remove the fill plug and stick something in there and check the oil level and look for milky white in the color. Insulated, white house wire works good. $900 is Not steep if they are truly replacing all the carrier bearings, pinion bearings, Crush sleeve and seals, Pinion and ring gear and axle bearings. If it is a Dana it can even be worse....

Welcome aboard

Garbz

 

Welcome aboard!

Mitch

 

Buy a long bed donor truck CHEAP, ride it to work til things come together ?

 

Welcome! It's about 2 hours away, but the shop I go to for the "big" stuff is in Rossville, GA. Great guys who treat you right.

 

i agree with these fellers in that you can replace the rear pumkin for about 50-100 bucks if you do it yourself. take off the ring of nuts around it and slide it out and slide another used one in there. aint quite that easy but thats all it takes. while you have your axles out replace the bearings and seals before you install them. boneyards will have dozens of them that will fit your truck. you will even be able to choose the gear ratio you would like. welcome to the site. you will find a huge amount of knowlege here from the people. Dutch

 

Welcome to FTE.